Do I need to remove dash to see if I have some A/C parts.
07-23-12, 03:42 PM
#1
Do I need to remove dash to see if I have some A/C parts.
I want to buy an A/C unit, and found out I want, but just to make sure my car doesn't have any parts already, I wanted to know if I had to take my dash off to see if I have I think it's the condenser? Whatever part of the A/C that's behind the dash. I want to know if I could just remove the glove box.
I know I sound like an idiot, but I just don't remember the name of the part behind the dash, aha.
I know I sound like an idiot, but I just don't remember the name of the part behind the dash, aha.
07-23-12, 03:58 PM
#2
Yes, removing the glovebox gives you full access to the AC part of the HVAC system.
Alternatively, just open the hood and look at the firewall.
If the condenser is still in place, the two connectors for it will be sticking out through the firewall, waiting to be attached. If there are two open holes, the condenser has been removed.
Alternatively, just open the hood and look at the firewall.
If the condenser is still in place, the two connectors for it will be sticking out through the firewall, waiting to be attached. If there are two open holes, the condenser has been removed.
07-23-12, 04:05 PM
#3
Yes, removing the glovebox gives you full access to the AC part of the HVAC system.
Alternatively, just open the hood and look at the firewall.
If the condenser is still in place, the two connectors for it will be sticking out through the firewall, waiting to be attached. If there are two open holes, the condenser has been removed.
Alternatively, just open the hood and look at the firewall.
If the condenser is still in place, the two connectors for it will be sticking out through the firewall, waiting to be attached. If there are two open holes, the condenser has been removed.
07-23-12, 04:16 PM
#5
So I take it, this is where the connectors would be coming out of?
And another noobish question, is this an oil cooler?
Last edited by ryan2949; 07-23-12 at 04:20 PM.
07-23-12, 05:08 PM
#9
in the first 2 pictures, yep, the covered part with rubber insert is where the evaporator core comes out of. the core sits between the 2 ducts behind the glove box. You can get the connecting piece from Mazda I think, but it won't be cheap.
the 3rd picture shows FC oil cooler, all FCs have it.
The condenser would sit between the oil cooler and the Radiator. hold down by 2 bolts and 2 nuts that goes in from the front. Just remove the hood lock and you will have enough room to slip the condenser in.
Another thing u need to keep in mind is the Compressor and the idler Pulley, you can get them fairly cheap, usually less than 60 for both. You have N/A so you will need the Sanden Brand Compressor.
you will also need I think 6 or 7 pieces of tubes, plus a brand new A/C drier, Sanden's A/C drier cost about 30-40 new.
the 3rd picture shows FC oil cooler, all FCs have it.
The condenser would sit between the oil cooler and the Radiator. hold down by 2 bolts and 2 nuts that goes in from the front. Just remove the hood lock and you will have enough room to slip the condenser in.
Another thing u need to keep in mind is the Compressor and the idler Pulley, you can get them fairly cheap, usually less than 60 for both. You have N/A so you will need the Sanden Brand Compressor.
you will also need I think 6 or 7 pieces of tubes, plus a brand new A/C drier, Sanden's A/C drier cost about 30-40 new.
07-23-12, 05:13 PM
#10
I'd rather be hot for 5 minutes of driving than biking and get to school drenched in sweat after 15-20 mins of biking.in the first 2 pictures, yep, the covered part with rubber insert is where the evaporator core comes out of. the core sits between the 2 ducts behind the glove box. You can get the connecting piece from Mazda I think, but it won't be cheap.
the 3rd picture shows FC oil cooler, all FCs have it.
The condenser would sit between the oil cooler and the Radiator. hold down by 2 bolts and 2 nuts that goes in from the front. Just remove the hood lock and you will have enough room to slip the condenser in.
Another thing u need to keep in mind is the Compressor and the idler Pulley, you can get them fairly cheap, usually less than 60 for both. You have N/A so you will need the Sanden Brand Compressor.
the 3rd picture shows FC oil cooler, all FCs have it.
The condenser would sit between the oil cooler and the Radiator. hold down by 2 bolts and 2 nuts that goes in from the front. Just remove the hood lock and you will have enough room to slip the condenser in.
Another thing u need to keep in mind is the Compressor and the idler Pulley, you can get them fairly cheap, usually less than 60 for both. You have N/A so you will need the Sanden Brand Compressor.
Would include
dash core/evaporator,
condenser,
compressor,
drier,
lines,
and engine mounting bracket for compressor
dash core/evaporator,
condenser,
compressor,
drier,
lines,
and engine mounting bracket for compressor
Last edited by ryan2949; 07-23-12 at 05:19 PM.
07-23-12, 06:01 PM
#12
new drier is a must
new refrigerant is a must (duh)
new ester oil is a must (don't EVER use PAG, mineral is old)
a working vacuum pump that can pull at least -29 mg (not gonna be cheap)
a working no-leak A/C manifold set (I said no-leak because my set is leaking, and it cost me pretty penny)
new refrigerant is a must (duh)
new ester oil is a must (don't EVER use PAG, mineral is old)
a working vacuum pump that can pull at least -29 mg (not gonna be cheap)
a working no-leak A/C manifold set (I said no-leak because my set is leaking, and it cost me pretty penny)
07-23-12, 06:10 PM
#13
new drier is a must
new refrigerant is a must (duh)
new ester oil is a must (don't EVER use PAG, mineral is old)
a working vacuum pump that can pull at least -29 mg (not gonna be cheap)
a working no-leak A/C manifold set (I said no-leak because my set is leaking, and it cost me pretty penny)
new refrigerant is a must (duh)
new ester oil is a must (don't EVER use PAG, mineral is old)
a working vacuum pump that can pull at least -29 mg (not gonna be cheap)
a working no-leak A/C manifold set (I said no-leak because my set is leaking, and it cost me pretty penny)
07-23-12, 07:42 PM
#14
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Do you know anyone, even remotely, that works for a commercial a/c service company? They almost always have a mobile system in their truck/van and won't hesitate to evacuate your system for you.
If you offer to pay (beer/food), they'll charge it for you too.
If you offer to pay (beer/food), they'll charge it for you too.
07-23-12, 07:53 PM
#15
I bet they wouldn't charge it with R22 - that crap is crazy expensive! The compressed air keyboard cleaner refrigerant gets my vote!
07-23-12, 09:53 PM
#16
if u are close to NYC or in NYC, I can do it for you cheaply
Any good A/C shop can do the vacuum for you, as for charging, most wouldn't even touch anything other than R134a and will try their best to "talk" you into thinking R134A is good ****. Run and use either Freeze12 or the R152A
Any good A/C shop can do the vacuum for you, as for charging, most wouldn't even touch anything other than R134a and will try their best to "talk" you into thinking R134A is good ****. Run and use either Freeze12 or the R152A
07-23-12, 11:01 PM
#17
if u are close to NYC or in NYC, I can do it for you cheaply
Any good A/C shop can do the vacuum for you, as for charging, most wouldn't even touch anything other than R134a and will try their best to "talk" you into thinking R134A is good ****. Run and use either Freeze12 or the R152A
Any good A/C shop can do the vacuum for you, as for charging, most wouldn't even touch anything other than R134a and will try their best to "talk" you into thinking R134A is good ****. Run and use either Freeze12 or the R152A
I'm sure an A/C shop is less than 700 bucks. Would be fun though.
07-25-12, 11:01 AM
#18
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No need to evacuate here... he's just installing. Unless he needs to evacuate his bowels... thats "always a good time." Pun intended.
I bet they wouldn't charge it with R22 - that crap is crazy expensive! The compressed air keyboard cleaner refrigerant gets my vote!
I bet they wouldn't charge it with R22 - that crap is crazy expensive! The compressed air keyboard cleaner refrigerant gets my vote!