do 3rd gen breaks and callipers fit a second gen
06-09-08, 12:54 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do 3rd gen breaks and callipers fit a second gen
i just came up on some third gen breaks and went canyon carving over the weekend and my stock second gen breaks suck so i was wondering if i can put on my 3rd gen breaks in the front
06-09-08, 01:39 PM
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-09-08, 03:20 PM
#4
calipers are the same, rotors are larger, if you want to use the rotors (only advantage) youll have to modify the heat shielding and get a custom bracket for the calipers to fit the rotors.
Also, this is only for those who already have turbo front brakes.
Also, this is only for those who already have turbo front brakes.
06-09-08, 03:44 PM
#6
if stock brakes suck.. you gotta change your driving style.. dont be heavy on the brakes and consider staying off em longer in a run so they can cool off.. Brake fade is scary **** when your canyon carving 
Do some stuff like brake ducting, resurface rotors/change pads yadda yadda.
But Fd calipers on FD has been done more in Japan... esp the rears.. Ive seen a local imported FC at a shop out here and he had some huge rear brake rotors, more then likely they where FD.
Theres a shop out here who sells imported FD rear assembles w/the lsd and whole front assemblies fairly cheap
Do some stuff like brake ducting, resurface rotors/change pads yadda yadda.
But Fd calipers on FD has been done more in Japan... esp the rears.. Ive seen a local imported FC at a shop out here and he had some huge rear brake rotors, more then likely they where FD.
Theres a shop out here who sells imported FD rear assembles w/the lsd and whole front assemblies fairly cheap
Trending Topics
06-09-08, 03:53 PM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if stock brakes suck.. you gotta change your driving style.. dont be heavy on the brakes and consider staying off em longer in a run so they can cool off.. Brake fade is scary **** when your canyon carving
Do some stuff like brake ducting, resurface rotors/change pads yadda yadda.
But Fd calipers on FD has been done more in Japan... esp the rears.. Ive seen a local imported FC at a shop out here and he had some huge rear brake rotors, more then likely they where FD.
Theres a shop out here who sells imported FD rear assembles w/the lsd and whole front assemblies fairly cheap
Do some stuff like brake ducting, resurface rotors/change pads yadda yadda.
But Fd calipers on FD has been done more in Japan... esp the rears.. Ive seen a local imported FC at a shop out here and he had some huge rear brake rotors, more then likely they where FD.
Theres a shop out here who sells imported FD rear assembles w/the lsd and whole front assemblies fairly cheap
06-09-08, 03:55 PM
#9
If you don't already have them switch to 4 piston front calipers and vented rear disc and set yourself up with some Hawk brake pads (HPS if daily driven) and braided stainless brake lines, completely flush your brake fluid. If you have stopping issues after this, YOU are the problem. FD brakes take FABRICATION to fit, are you capable of this? are you aware that FD calipers aren't much different than 4 piston FC calipers save the looks? Congrats on winning that darwin award
06-09-08, 04:46 PM
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you don't already have them switch to 4 piston front calipers and vented rear disc and set yourself up with some Hawk brake pads (HPS if daily driven) and braided stainless brake lines, completely flush your brake fluid. If you have stopping issues after this, YOU are the problem. FD brakes take FABRICATION to fit, are you capable of this? are you aware that FD calipers aren't much different than 4 piston FC calipers save the looks? Congrats on winning that darwin award
06-09-08, 10:53 PM
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
and with that info you just told me yup there single. thanks bro you just saved me some time cuz they dont have any of that.
06-10-08, 08:51 AM
#14
Then an upgrade to four piston fronts would be a nice addition. You could go through the trouble of adding FD fronts with fabrication involved, or you could get all the parts for FC fronts and have a simpler swap.
In my opinion, I don't believe stopping distances would be dramatically improved by using FD fronts, so I would opt for the simpler swap.
In my opinion, I don't believe stopping distances would be dramatically improved by using FD fronts, so I would opt for the simpler swap.
06-10-08, 11:49 AM
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dont even know i just bought the car about 2 months ago and only changed my suspension to the jics havent gone through the brakes yet until after that drive and thought to myself these brakes are really dragging
06-10-08, 12:25 PM
#17
As soon as you can, change/flush the brake fluid, and go over each caliper and sliders to make sure the pistons and slider's aren't seized. You can switch to the 4-piston calipers if you still want better braking.
Another way to tell the 4-piston calipers is they are mounted to the spindle and have no sliders. Also, the rear calipers that came with the 4-piston front calipers are slightly different and go with vented rear rotors.
Another way to tell the 4-piston calipers is they are mounted to the spindle and have no sliders. Also, the rear calipers that came with the 4-piston front calipers are slightly different and go with vented rear rotors.
06-10-08, 01:52 PM
#18
Drunk favors for beers
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FD calipers are a direct bolt on. I haven't noticed much difference at all in braking power between the fd and fc four piston calipers. The only reason I have fd calipers is because I already had them and IMO they look better.
Here they are on my fc:
Here they are on my fc:
06-10-08, 03:59 PM
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cool i just looked at my car in the front on my lunch break and made a small boo boo they are four piston in the front but not the back so i am going to order brembo slotted rotors and the ebc green stuff pads
06-10-08, 04:01 PM
#20
now you said just bolt it on and go...others are saying you have to make a bracket...Is the bracket made only when the fd rotors are used as well? In any case they look good...And even though there might not be a big difference in stopping power between the fc and the fd, it's just that we have them laying around the garage collecting dust...so this saves us time from going to the junk yard...thanks for the info...
06-10-08, 06:40 PM
#21
Well, if it is a direct bolt on (I honestly don't know, I was relying on what others had said in this thread), then it's definitely easier to use them. However, he said he does have the four piston brakes in the front, which negates any major need to change calipers. The rears will always be single piston, whether the fronts are four piston or not.
As others have said, definitely give it a once over and bleed the system.
As others have said, definitely give it a once over and bleed the system.
06-10-08, 09:37 PM
#22
there's no reason to use the FD calipers if you're not going to use the FD rotors.
4-pots are only found in the front, all cars came with rear singles. However, if you have 4-pots in the front, then the rear rotors are vented. That's the best setup for the buck imo.
If your car is a street car and don't care about noise and want better performance and save money, go with normal non-slotted rotors and hawk hp+ brake pads. They will be noisy and dusty, but have the best bite out of the street/track pads.
Also, these days, slotted rotors aren't needed for best brake performance with modern pads. Rotor blanks are actually the best for preventing brake fade, but slots add insurance by letting you know for sure that your pads are clean. Slots are also more aesthetically pleasing, which i guess, you can spend the money on if you don't mind.
4-pots are only found in the front, all cars came with rear singles. However, if you have 4-pots in the front, then the rear rotors are vented. That's the best setup for the buck imo.
If your car is a street car and don't care about noise and want better performance and save money, go with normal non-slotted rotors and hawk hp+ brake pads. They will be noisy and dusty, but have the best bite out of the street/track pads.
Also, these days, slotted rotors aren't needed for best brake performance with modern pads. Rotor blanks are actually the best for preventing brake fade, but slots add insurance by letting you know for sure that your pads are clean. Slots are also more aesthetically pleasing, which i guess, you can spend the money on if you don't mind.
06-10-08, 11:54 PM
#24
Well, if it is a direct bolt on (I honestly don't know, I was relying on what others had said in this thread), then it's definitely easier to use them. However, he said he does have the four piston brakes in the front, which negates any major need to change calipers. The rears will always be single piston, whether the fronts are four piston or not.
As others have said, definitely give it a once over and bleed the system.
As others have said, definitely give it a once over and bleed the system.
there's no reason to use the FD calipers if you're not going to use the FD rotors.
4-pots are only found in the front, all cars came with rear singles. However, if you have 4-pots in the front, then the rear rotors are vented. That's the best setup for the buck imo.
If your car is a street car and don't care about noise and want better performance and save money, go with normal non-slotted rotors and hawk hp+ brake pads. They will be noisy and dusty, but have the best bite out of the street/track pads.
Also, these days, slotted rotors aren't needed for best brake performance with modern pads. Rotor blanks are actually the best for preventing brake fade, but slots add insurance by letting you know for sure that your pads are clean. Slots are also more aesthetically pleasing, which i guess, you can spend the money on if you don't mind.
4-pots are only found in the front, all cars came with rear singles. However, if you have 4-pots in the front, then the rear rotors are vented. That's the best setup for the buck imo.
If your car is a street car and don't care about noise and want better performance and save money, go with normal non-slotted rotors and hawk hp+ brake pads. They will be noisy and dusty, but have the best bite out of the street/track pads.
Also, these days, slotted rotors aren't needed for best brake performance with modern pads. Rotor blanks are actually the best for preventing brake fade, but slots add insurance by letting you know for sure that your pads are clean. Slots are also more aesthetically pleasing, which i guess, you can spend the money on if you don't mind.
will do thanks for the info...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rx8volks
Canadian Forum
0
08-11-15 10:30 PM
