DIY: Repairing Convertible Headrest Speaker Controls
DIY: Repairing Convertible Headrest Speaker Controls
The headrest speakers in my 'vert have been slowly getting more and more flaky, not always working, abruptly turning off etc. In my case, the source of the trouble was actually the push-buttons for "Power" and "Surround" - the contacts inside were loosening up and not staying connected until eventually the plastic actuator shaft just broke and would not stay in the depressed position. Fortunately, there's a pretty simple fix for this if you're handy with a soldering iron.
DigiKey (and probably others) have a push-button switch that is almost identical to the originals - PVA2EEH1. The pin-to-pin spacing is the same within a row and only about 1mm wider between rows (easily bent to fit the existing holes in the headrest control PCB), the overall height is the same, the switch style is the same, the end of the actuator shaft clips into the existing buttons, and the current rating seems sufficient (I couldn't find specs on the originals, but with the size of the contacts etc they couldn't be rated to more than 0.1A or so). The most significant difference is that the original switches have the actuator offset towards the LEDs as it's positioned on the PCB, while all the new switches I could find have the actuator centered on the component body. This moves the actuator about 5mm away from the LEDs, so some plastic needs to be carved away from the inside of the plastic face of the headrest controls. This can't be seen with the buttons in place and installed, so once the whole switch is back together it looks & feels just like it used to (except, well, working now).

You can see how the location of the actuator shaft has moved in this picture, and the correct orientation to solder the new switch (the closer white/grey switch) in place of the old one (the further black "822" switch). I replaced both since I was in there, and the headrest speakers now work well again. All for less than $4 and a little bit of soldering work.
DigiKey (and probably others) have a push-button switch that is almost identical to the originals - PVA2EEH1. The pin-to-pin spacing is the same within a row and only about 1mm wider between rows (easily bent to fit the existing holes in the headrest control PCB), the overall height is the same, the switch style is the same, the end of the actuator shaft clips into the existing buttons, and the current rating seems sufficient (I couldn't find specs on the originals, but with the size of the contacts etc they couldn't be rated to more than 0.1A or so). The most significant difference is that the original switches have the actuator offset towards the LEDs as it's positioned on the PCB, while all the new switches I could find have the actuator centered on the component body. This moves the actuator about 5mm away from the LEDs, so some plastic needs to be carved away from the inside of the plastic face of the headrest controls. This can't be seen with the buttons in place and installed, so once the whole switch is back together it looks & feels just like it used to (except, well, working now).
You can see how the location of the actuator shaft has moved in this picture, and the correct orientation to solder the new switch (the closer white/grey switch) in place of the old one (the further black "822" switch). I replaced both since I was in there, and the headrest speakers now work well again. All for less than $4 and a little bit of soldering work.
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86gxltiller
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Feb 23, 2007 06:00 PM



