skizzle84

Unless I'm drastically mistaken, the stock camber links are several inches long, about an inch wide on the ends, and have sleeves pressed inside the rubber bushings on the ends. On the aftermarket individual rear camber links, such as AWR or Mazdatrix, they seem to be much more complex, adj, and long lasting.

I have two ideas in mind:

In similarity to how the stock SUBFRAME camber adjusters are often cut, threaded & welded, and put back to use as an adj. unit, I was thinking that may be possible with the ind. stock camber links. The process would be to cut off about an inch or so from the middle of the stock links, thread the inside OR if its hollow then weld a nut on, have a threaded bolt to connect each side, and a lock nut to keep it from loosening.

The other idea I have in mind is quite simple. If tapered ends, washers, etc were used on the sides of the bearings, would it be possible to use spherical bearing ends / rod ends / heim joints?

Crazy ideas, I know.

Feedback?!

Black91n/a

They're not that long. You could try this, although it's yet to be tested AFAIK.

skizzle84

I think I have the idea, but explain specifically how those would work.

red87tll

iTrader: (4)

PM Patman, he made his. I doubt you will hear from him tonight, he is at some banquet or something. But yeah he mad some adjustable rear links and they are pretty nice...

Black91n/a

You replace the stock "bushing" with those offset ones and rotate them to change the trailing arm angle, which chages camber. Use the set screw to lock them in place (hopefully).

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

These are mine. I had them made and did not use them, I ended up sticking with stock dog bones as it was determined these would be a violation of SCCA ITS rules. I had them installed on the car for about a week but never tested them out. I paid $150 to have them machined with receipt. Since I am not using them, they are worth nothing to me. If anyone is interested, make me an offer or trade. Their design is not tested or proven, maybe they are flawed or maybe you can have the next big invention.

They are stock dog bones that have been modified. The centers were removed and the the edge was machined flat. (BTW - the stock dog bones have a spherical bearing in them already, it's a rubber boot that covers the bearing. That's not a traditional rubber bushing in there). Bronze bushings were machined to fit in the centers. With the offset holes, the idea was to rotate the bushing to achieve the desired distance between mounting points. The bushing was held in place by a set screw. I did not machine or come up with the design, it is that of a 30yr + SCCA tech inspector.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

i'll pay pal you $20 and a hug?

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

i dont know how well those would work. the set screw would keep them from falling out but not keep them in the same position. some more work would make them killer though

Black91n/a

They would keep them in place, to a degree, who really knows how much force they have to take, so they could be fine, they might not be.

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

Maybe if you were a really hot 20yr old female, something tells me your not though. Thanks but I'll pass on the offer.

In response to the concern, would the set screws hold the bearings in place... I don't know. If they didn't, you could very easily drill hole(s) in the side of the bearings and the set screw could then sit in a "hole" rather than just be pressed up against the side. Ideally, you could have several of these holes around the entire bearing, this could be done on any drill press.

unicorn_squad

I don't think they are long enough to do this. even if you did somehow manage to thread them, and get some sort of threaded adjuster on it that didn't make them longer than stock, you would have an incredibly small range of adjustment, so it really wouldn't be worth it. the aftermarket units from mazdatrix just use an allen's bolt and some wierd spacer things, so they can get very close together... closer than they could get if you tried to connect two heim joints with any sort of adjustable link.

I think your best bet, if you are just trying to get rid of -camber for as little cost as possible (if the subframe adjuster doesn't give you enough adjustment) is to simply cut them, and re-weld them back, in a permanent, shorter position. I saw some pictures a while ago of this done by I think FEED, or some company in japan... I can't seem to find them right now though. just make sure they're both equal length, and there shouldn't be any problems.
and if you wanted some adjustment, you could do the threaded part to the subframe adjuster... you wouldn't have control of each wheel individually, but it would remove a LOT of camber, for very little cost. and still give you 'some' adjustability.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

yeah i guess it was worth a shot . . . i'll just machine my own then ^_^

patman

iTrader: (3)

I did not make individual ones, only an adjustable sublink, which is the big link in the middle by the diff. adjusting this changes camber on both wheels by the same amount, and totally fixed all my camber problems. the cost was about 5 bucks ofr a big bolt and a nut, and about 15 minutes with a welder and angle grinder. if you guys are interested, i can post a pic or something.

pat

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

We did try make adjustable ones by cutting/welding stock ones, but there is no clearance for that.

So i got mazdatrix units, broke one in accident, but other than that, it seems to take some abuse....

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

These will not work good imho, most of lenghts will be moving parts out of their proper axis. And bolts on side will not hold them from getting lose...