Direct Fit Seats?
#1
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Direct Fit Seats?
I am going to redo the interior of my FC and want to change the stock seats. Was looking on ebay and it looks like everything needs brackets. I totally dig the RX-8 seats, anyone know if they are a direct fit? Or are there any direct fit seats?
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or just use one seat. I never got the point of getting a racing seat for the passenger.
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#12
So wait, a BIGGER guy is supposed to get a SMALLER seat? I'm confused. Could you please clarify? I am thinking about getting a new seat for my car and I am wondering what you mean. One of the reasons for getting a new seat is because I am a big guy and I need more room. your statement is just confusing me. Is there something I'm missing?
#14
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So wait, a BIGGER guy is supposed to get a SMALLER seat? I'm confused. Could you please clarify? I am thinking about getting a new seat for my car and I am wondering what you mean. One of the reasons for getting a new seat is because I am a big guy and I need more room. your statement is just confusing me. Is there something I'm missing?
Clearly, you want a seat that fits your ***.
When considering a replacement seat, the width of the cushions ( base and back) are not the primary consideration (compared to a 3rd gen we have a gigantic interior).
Most "generic" aftermarket seats have fairly thin seat bases, while OEM units- which generally favor comfort over support- tend to be thicker.
It's the installed height of the seat base that is usually the problem...especially in export markets (like America) and even more especially for sunroof equipped cars (like, most of 'em).
(Our cars also require radically different seat base/mounting for the two sides...so I'm going to ignore the passenger side for now.)
If you can live with the inconvenience, "hard mounting" (i.e., no sliders) is the easiest path to lowering the seat height.
(This is also the least painful way of dealing with the passenger seat mount issue.)
Even low profile sliders are about 3/4" tall, which can be a huge difference when it comes to head clearance.
If you must have sliding capability, when it comes to OEM seats (like the OP's RX-8 idea) the most critical thing to examine is the bottom of the seat and how it was originally mounted in the donor car.
Our cars use a raised rib that spans the floorpan to mount the front of the seat...many cars do not and their seat base can be dropped between the sliders (one of my favorite OEM seats, the Honda CRX Recaro does this).
Such a config requires the seat be raised on the sliders so the dropped base pan clears the RX floor...and there goes your headroom.
Clearly, I have spent way too much time thinking/experimenting with seats (at least six sets so far, currently sporting early nineties Integra chairs) and I've learned that almost any (reasonable) seat can be mounted...whether you like it or not is hard to tell till it's done.
For me it takes about a week to decide if I like the seats...initial impressions can be deceiving. A couple hours on the highway is mandatory- a seat that's fine when you're active might be torture when you're basically just sitting for an extended period of time.
#15
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its really not that hard to understand, if the stock seats sit 9" from the floor and your new seat sits 11" from the floor a bigger seat is no good for you.
It would be like sitting on a cushion. Even if the brackets are as flat as they can be if one seat is thicker its no good, you cant take thickness out of a seat without taking it into a shop then you might as well just recover your seats
the other item to take into consideration is the angle of the seat itself, the stock seat has a angle so your *** is lower then your thigh, get a seat with a different angle so that the *** part is straight and you will feel like you are propped up in the air.
to me the ANGLE of the seat is the most important because it will just not "feel" right, if you just bought the car and have no seat time you may not notice as much, but coming from someone who has owed their car for so long I was very sensitive to the recovered seats in my TII and the new seats in my vert, I instantly feel the difference and it takes a long time to get used to
It would be like sitting on a cushion. Even if the brackets are as flat as they can be if one seat is thicker its no good, you cant take thickness out of a seat without taking it into a shop then you might as well just recover your seats
the other item to take into consideration is the angle of the seat itself, the stock seat has a angle so your *** is lower then your thigh, get a seat with a different angle so that the *** part is straight and you will feel like you are propped up in the air.
to me the ANGLE of the seat is the most important because it will just not "feel" right, if you just bought the car and have no seat time you may not notice as much, but coming from someone who has owed their car for so long I was very sensitive to the recovered seats in my TII and the new seats in my vert, I instantly feel the difference and it takes a long time to get used to
#16
Alright, thanks for clearing that up. I get what you are saying now and it makes complete sense. Also, do you guys know how the headroom in an fc compares to an fb? I own an fb, but was looking at getting an fc (more power without messing with the swap). It's just that I am 6'3" and my head hits the roof in my fb if the sunroof isn't up. I want to get into some beginner level road racing in the future, so I need a helmet on a head that already doesn't have enough room in an fb. I heard that an fc has slightly less headroom. Is that true? It is it even possible for me to get in there without mounting the seat straight to the floor?
#18
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I think maybe I will just get a set of leather skins for the stock seats. Theres no way I can put taller seats in it. Short legs and a tall torso is my main problem. Bumping my head on the damn drivers door in turns. I can lean the seats back a bit more and its comfortable. if I decide on redoing the interior I will be ripping everything out anyway then im sure i'll be back with more questions.
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