Differential removal -- How the hell to get the subframe out?i undid all of the bolts
06-20-04, 06:55 PM
#1
Differential removal -- How the hell to get the subframe out?i undid all of the bolts
I unbolted all of the subframe mounting points and the two differential mounting points and the frame still wont drop...i also unolted my shocks and the hangers for the exhaust...what the hell am i missing?
06-21-04, 12:37 PM
#7
meh
Join Date: Sep 2002
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I had quite a time switching out my differential. The best way that I found to get it back together was like this (using crap I had laying around): I had the subframe all dropped. I attached the differential to the subframe. The entire subframe flexes, so it's hard to just lift it from 2 ends. So I put a long board under the front side of it, and a long board under the rear side of it (under the hubs). I had 3 of these flat rolling 3-wheel moving dollies that I used to move a piano across a room. I put 1 under each end of the rear, and one under the center of the front board. I slowly added boards and bricks under each board at the dolly, moving the subframe up slowly. The wheels let me adjust how it was lining up to the under side. It looked crazy (I have a pic somewhere if you need it), but it worked, and it required very little lifting.
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06-21-04, 04:25 PM
#10
Mazda4Life
Join Date: Aug 2003
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damn, someone want to list all the things that need to be disconnected and blah blah blah!! I'm putting in LSD at the end of the summer. I didn't think there was gonna be all this stuff to disconnect.
06-21-04, 04:35 PM
#11
Zoom Zoom Boom!
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Heres my old reply. Sorry if I left anything out. Thats all I remembered at the time.
"Ok, here's my write up that I just sent recently to someone who PM'ed me about diff removal.
Hi, it took me a few hours to remove it but I was removing other stuff while I was at it. If I could do it again, I would probably drop the whole rear subframe since its quicker. The only hard part will be getting it bolted back up to the chassis.
This is at the top of my head:
I guess the fastest way is remove the driveshaft, rear wheels, and exhaust. Remove the 17mm bottom bolt on the rear struts and move it so its still not on the pin. Remove the subframe camber link. Might be tough to get to the top bolt so I'd recommend removing the fuel tank shield. Disconnect rear brake line and disconnect the parking brake cable. Drain diff oil by removing the diff bolt. After that, place the jack under the diff case to support it. Next, remove the two bolts on each side of the diff case "T" that holds the diff case to the chassis.
After that, there are two bolts on each side. Should be a 14mm and 17mm. Loosen both sides evenly slowly. The whole subframe may lower. If it doesn't, you'll need to rock it back and forth to break it loose but be extra careful since it can drop suddenly. Slowly lower the jack. You may want to have a jackstand under the front part of the subframe just in case. Then from there, you can access the top part of the subframe and get to the diff mount bolts much easier. Also its much easier to install the new diff now too. You can remove the 4 halfshaft nuts on each side too although you can do it before or after subframe removal. Just hang it on a wire to support it. Installation is reverse of removal. Just don't forget to re-do your rear brakes.
Let me know if there are any problems. I may be forgetting a few things too."
"Ok, here's my write up that I just sent recently to someone who PM'ed me about diff removal.
Hi, it took me a few hours to remove it but I was removing other stuff while I was at it. If I could do it again, I would probably drop the whole rear subframe since its quicker. The only hard part will be getting it bolted back up to the chassis.
This is at the top of my head:
I guess the fastest way is remove the driveshaft, rear wheels, and exhaust. Remove the 17mm bottom bolt on the rear struts and move it so its still not on the pin. Remove the subframe camber link. Might be tough to get to the top bolt so I'd recommend removing the fuel tank shield. Disconnect rear brake line and disconnect the parking brake cable. Drain diff oil by removing the diff bolt. After that, place the jack under the diff case to support it. Next, remove the two bolts on each side of the diff case "T" that holds the diff case to the chassis.
After that, there are two bolts on each side. Should be a 14mm and 17mm. Loosen both sides evenly slowly. The whole subframe may lower. If it doesn't, you'll need to rock it back and forth to break it loose but be extra careful since it can drop suddenly. Slowly lower the jack. You may want to have a jackstand under the front part of the subframe just in case. Then from there, you can access the top part of the subframe and get to the diff mount bolts much easier. Also its much easier to install the new diff now too. You can remove the 4 halfshaft nuts on each side too although you can do it before or after subframe removal. Just hang it on a wire to support it. Installation is reverse of removal. Just don't forget to re-do your rear brakes.
Let me know if there are any problems. I may be forgetting a few things too."
06-21-04, 05:02 PM
#12
Ill try and go a little further in depth, off the top of my head:
Remove rear wheels. Remove both calipers (leaving the brake line attached) and try and swing them up and away somewhere so they wont be hanging down and getting in the way. The diconnect the anitsway-bar from the rear endlinks (14mm). Then remove the bolt that connects the lateral support bar to the subframe in the center of the car (17mm). Then remove the lower strut bolts (17mm). Now place a jack under the center of the pumpkin. Remove the 17mm bolts at each end of the "T" (or Hogshead and sometimes reffered to), along witht he retainer cups that will come down with the bolts. Then remove the 21mm nut , along with the bracket (held on by a 14 or 15mm nut) at the front corners of the subframe. Now making sure everything is clear and out of the way (calipers and brakelines..) lower the jack slowly. If the subframe does not drop (most likely will not) pry down at each attachment point. Once down , you can pull it out from under the car, and very clearly see what you will need to do to remove the diff itself, its very simple
Remove rear wheels. Remove both calipers (leaving the brake line attached) and try and swing them up and away somewhere so they wont be hanging down and getting in the way. The diconnect the anitsway-bar from the rear endlinks (14mm). Then remove the bolt that connects the lateral support bar to the subframe in the center of the car (17mm). Then remove the lower strut bolts (17mm). Now place a jack under the center of the pumpkin. Remove the 17mm bolts at each end of the "T" (or Hogshead and sometimes reffered to), along witht he retainer cups that will come down with the bolts. Then remove the 21mm nut , along with the bracket (held on by a 14 or 15mm nut) at the front corners of the subframe. Now making sure everything is clear and out of the way (calipers and brakelines..) lower the jack slowly. If the subframe does not drop (most likely will not) pry down at each attachment point. Once down , you can pull it out from under the car, and very clearly see what you will need to do to remove the diff itself, its very simple
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