Alright guys i got my N333 Computer in the mail today was stoked hooked it up hooked up the intercooler again and it fired right up.... excellent okay now its idling at about 1500 rpms and when you press the gas in a little it will rev a little but if you push it any harder it cuts out and drops way down like it wants to die... if you hold it down it does die... any ideas on why its doing this?

 

If i give it a light throttle it will slowly climb above 4000 rpm... but if i drop the pedal down hard it cuts out and dies

 

vacuum leak.
Cheap fix and it is worth it's wieght in Gold is a pressure tester for your IC.
look at this link and scroll half way down.. ; http://www.fighters-garage.com/rx7.html

 

Whats the Most likely vaccum leak?

 

your air flow meter work properly?

 

i have another one that i hooked up and it does the same whats the chances of both of them being bad?

 

Your TPS is way out of spec or the connector is loose/corroded. Make sure it is set correctly. If it starts and then dies it would be the AFM or vacuum leak, but your car idles then has a problem when you move the throttle plates, that is a TPS issue.

 

Is it in the FSM how to adjust the TPS?

 

FSM HAS EVERYTHING. its the green wire 1volt at idle, 5v+/-1v at WOT IIRC.

 

http://www.banzai-racing.com/TPS_adjustment.htm

 

Where is the adjustment screw? I see a spring loaded NUT but no screw

 

Is this a possible Boost issue? it seems like when i hit the pedal the boost wants to start climbing but once it hits around 1psi it hits a brick wall and shuts down the motor more or less untill i let off the pedal... if so what would i look for to fix it this is my first turbo car?

 

Page 4B-34 in the FSM shows the TPS adjustment screw.

The high idle is most likley a vacuum leak after the t-body. When in boost that would cause an air leak and a rich condition that could bog the engine.

Is the engine in stock form?

 

its bone stock i just got it running again the other day and now when i give it full throttle it will completley die.... i can get it to creep up as high as i want if i barley push the throttle

 

I see you fixed the vacuum leak.

AFM test 4B-60 in the FSM
Pressure sensor 4B-77 in the FSM

 

no its always creaped up like that if i barley push the pedal.... once i hit it to the floor or even half way to the floor it dies out and almost dies untill i release it again

 

Make sure the AFM door opens smoothly. I've never personally seen an AFM go out, but the flapper can get stuck.

The secondary injectors won't engage in vacuum. Can you go WOT below 3K rpm's or will it stumble?

 

I cant go WOT at all.... as soon as i open it up it dies well... wnats to die

 

Does it idle smooth, and what RPM?

 

idles pretty smooth and at about 1100 rpm or so

 

this is really starting to drive me nuts man i got the car it wasnt running, i got it running and cant get it to boost for me without dying haha its driving me nuts.... i assume a vaccume leak but idk where to even look.... sucks but i am loving all the help thanks guys

 

That's still to high for a stock engine. When it is completely warmed up the idle should under 900, 750rpm is factory spec.

If this was my car this is what I would do.

Pull the upper manifold, replace all the vacuum lines, and clean the injector ground on top of the engine.
If it has sat for a while get the injectors cleaned.
Check turbo inlet duct for splits.
Set the TPS with engine at operating temp.
Change fuel filter and check fuel pump pressure.
Check timing, AFM, and pressure sensor.

You will need a good Digital Multi Meter (Somthing like sears sells for $20-$30), a timing light, and fuel presure tester.

 

FSM link

Section 4B will be your best friend.

 

If i pull the upper intake manifold i have a few questions
first

Will i need to buy a new gasket set...

second

where can i get the vaccum lines

third

can i clean the injectors by soaking them in fuel injector cleaner or is there another way of doing this?

 

OH and also when i swapped my fuel tanks i noticed that on both of them the valve in the top of the tank i believe its hooked to the check and cut valve.... both are broken would this cause my problem?