i was driving on the german highway at wot 160 MPH, suddenly no more power and a big smoke through the exhaust.
now the car idle poorly but not die, and a rough low power untill 3200 rpm but no more power after just less rough

at idle car smell rich as hell

the car don't go too heat water still 86 degre c,

according to power fc i was boosting 0.95 peak and air temp 68 degre c peak when it arrive


thanks for your help..........................

 

Sounds like you might have, do a compression check.

 

so you hit 14 psi, on what mods?

 

Sounds like the same symptoms of when I blew my N/A up, but do a compression test.

 

here are my mods





cheap bastard air box/K&N with 99' air duct/ ARC RACE SMIC/ ELABTRONIC INTELLIGENT INTERCOOLER WATER SPRAY / EFINI Y PIPE/HKS TWIN POWER /NGK Power Cable Racing Wire 0.9k Ohms/m) / HKS DOWNPIPE/SARD HIGH FLOW CATALYSER/BLITZ NUR SPEC R/ HKS EVC V BOOST CONTROLLER/SUPRA FUEL PUMP/stock injectors/APEXI POWER FC FD3S4 BASE MAP /STOCK TWINS @13.5 PSI

 

ACCORDING TO POWER FC COMMANDER i've hit 92% ON INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE ,
injector failure?
WHEN I DRIVE THE CAR it rev only rough till 3000 rpm
don't rough at all when i downshift...
?

 

the engine is blown. sounds like you are running on only 1 good rotor. I've had a VERY similar experience.

-mike

 

Motor is only 35 000 miles...

IF REALLY BLOWN

REBUILD OR 20B SWAP?

COST FOR REBUILD ?
COST FOR 20B SWAP?

MY CAR IS A 94' FD3S

 

i think you need to learn alot more before doing a 20b swap.. what are you doing in the 2nd gen section if you have a 94 FD?....*sigh*

TwEaK

 

number one thing to do is find out why you blew your motor, if you rebuild it and plug everything back in the same, under the same circumstances it would probably just blow up again. do you have a wideband display?