Rotor Connection

iTrader: (1)

I have 2 N/A motors(S4,S5) and a blown S5 TII. The TII rotors and housings where shot, the only good thing was the shaft and the Irons. I'm thinking about porting the exhaust on one of the N/A motor, and removing them stupid gas diffusers. Then use the S4 rotors, so i'll basically have a TII with N/A S4 rotors and S5 rotor housing.

School got me broke, i only need a long block i have everything else from my TII setup. The haltech, 720cc, 1600cc, absolutely everything. What counter balances should I use? I know is not the prefer setup and what not but that's what i could build, I don't need an E-skooling on thermodynamic efficiency, just a few pointers to help me out. Needed something running yesterday.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

well the problem is that a 6 port manifold won't work very well with a 4 port engine. the port runners are different shapes.

Rotor Connection

iTrader: (1)

I have everything from the S5 TII, including both upper and lower intake manifold lims. i just want to replace the my ruin rotor housings and rotors from an N/A motor.

thomas!!

counterweights need to match the rotating assembly, s4 rotors: s4 counterweight,

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Don't port the exhaust because you will lose bottom end. Use the exhaust inserts in the best housings. Set the sideseal to corner seal clearance to 0.002" and the endplay to 0.0015". Use the stock oil system. FD corner seal springs. Stock 2 or 3 piece apex seals. The 3 piece seal better.

Clean up the casting inside the intake ports. Leave a surface finish that is about 600 grit feeling to the touch. I wouldn't bother porting if this is your first rebuild...I'd be more concerned with building a reliable engine with good compression before you start experimenting with porting. It's very easy to ruin a good plate and they are so hard to find in good shape...

If the rotors are S4 you will need a S4 front counterweight and the S4 turbo flywheel and turbo clutch disc and pressure plate.


Your fuel system is overkill. I would run the 720cc on the secondary rail and use the stock 550cc injectors on the primary rail. It's much easier to fine tune idle and vacuum parts of the map with the 550 injectors because they have better resolution. Plus it's easier to find base maps that use 550/1600 injectors and it's nice to start rich and take away fuel when you tune. With a 255 lb/hr fuel pump you will have more than enough fuel for 300 HP at the brakes. I'd sell the 1600cc injectors.

Sorry about the wording, I wrote this fast...does it make sense?

peejay

The only difference will be, if you want to retain coolant flow through the intake manifold, you'll have to drill out the N/A rotor housings, since they're blocked off. Stick the parts side by side and the difference will be obvious.

Counterweights stick with the rotors, and rotors weigh the same for a given series,
so use series 4 counterweights with series 4 rotors and series 5 counterweights with series 5 rotors. This means that you have to either use the series 5 rotors or hunt down a series 4 flywheel. Turbo and non turbo flywheels are different diameters, they need to be used with the same type transmission.

Rotor Connection

iTrader: (1)

got it thanks.

Basically I'm reusing my exact setup again, just using N/A rotors and housing. I was running a TO4S at 18psi, that's why i had those injectors. i was running 550 720 before that with my old knighsports turbo. I would just have to tweak the map i was running in order no to ping the hi comp rotors.


Really appreciate the help . I still have parts from my old S4 TII more than likely i have the flywheel. I really hope i do because i don't wanna go to high on the compression.


Thanks a lot for the help guys.