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Did compression test not good what to do...

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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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Did compression test not good what to do...

Well just did a compression test because I couldnt figure out why the car wont start... front rotor bounces from 30-60 in pulses then goes up to 90 if u let off the valve on the tester.... The rear rotor has 0 notta nothing is there a way I can fix this what to do....
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:03 PM
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Youre seal are most probably blown, they usaly take the whole engine with them but unless you remove the engine and open it up you cant be sure.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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Well, if you did the compression test correctly, there's a good chance your rear rotor is shot... If you tossed an apex seal, it more than likely grenaded the rest of them too... sucks dude. Sounds like its rebuild time for you.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:10 PM
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damn i bought the car tonight guy told me it was a stuck injector beacuase it wont start and smells flooded..... i took out both bottom plugs...... unplugged 2 fuses put the teser in th front rotor seemed to work fine..... put it in the rear and nothing plug was also wet when i pulled it
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:25 PM
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so how hard is a rebuild I can rebuild a ford v8 with my eyes closed but I bet that wont help me one bit lol
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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same thing happened to me, i got a sticking spring on a apex seal most likely. severaly passes at 0 psi then jumps to 75 psi. oh well time to get into the turbo world now.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:39 PM
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well you can go to pinapple.com (spelling?) and get some videos of how to rebuild a rotary...its not that hard but you will probubly need new rotors if you tossed an apex....possibly a housing but you wont know till you pull the engine...

id check to make sure you did the compression test correctly before you go and pull the motor
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 11:53 PM
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Pretty close to the same difficulty. More small parts.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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so what is the correct way"? I got the front to register
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:35 AM
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You probably did it right... Front is the same as the rear. I was more making a point of maybe messing up the rear compression test. aka. being inconsistent. But...

The only NON-Rebuild scenario I can think of is flooding like you mentioned.. but it would have to be REALLY flooded to have ZERO compression. Flooding DOES decrease your compression, but typically not to zero.. try unflooding it and go from there mang... I'm assuming you know how to do that?

Check the FAQ's if you don't. I'd definitely do that BEFORE looking to far into a rebuild and getting all depressed. I know what you are feeling though. Sucks. hehe
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:39 AM
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very depressed.... the car will start with starting fuild... but not without it and smeels like I dumped a gallon of gas into the exhaust

Last edited by Tbird; Mar 23, 2007 at 01:46 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:42 AM
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If you can rebuild a v8, then you should be able to handle rebuilding a rotary. All you need is patience, diligence, and an ability to learn and follow directions.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:45 AM
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Eh.. I wouldn't use starting fluid....

Just 2cycle oil in the chambers to unflood it... but, once its running it SHOULD be burning off the excess fuel. Maybe your fuel pressure regulator died? I'd make sure your rear rotor is dead before tearing it apart.... Unflood it. Let it run for a little while.. maybe take it for a drive. Get it home, shut it off.. Unplug the EGI fuse in the engine bay, do your compression test. Do the rear rotor first, then the front rotor (to make sure you are getting a real, non-flooded, reading).

There might be something I'm missing on this... I'm sick... and Tired.... So... brain is dead.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:45 AM
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thsi is Where I send the newcomers so they can do their own Compression check http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html Unfortunately your Engine sounds like MINE..and I just got it Yanked from the car...it had 80 on the front and NOTHING on the back...anyhow..I guess we are in the same boat..Suggestion..look in the Sec Gen Parts For Sale Section here..you may be able to find a Decent N/A engine Cheap..since alot of guys are never Satisfied with the N/A and Go to a TII engine or "the other Alternative"..Best of luck..STYX.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:50 AM
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hmmm really didnt plan on having to buy a motor SO i will probly let the car go unless under some kinda miracle I can get it figured out... I cannot get it to run without starting fluid.... just smeels so flooded.... I took out the fuses ect now... I will try a few more things and then i guess I will have to face it haha
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:51 AM
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So, you tried 2cycle oil to unflood it?
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:55 AM
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no but how in the world would bein flooded give 0 compression I cant even hear any air come out if I just take out the plug on the rear.... or could i be wrong?
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 02:02 AM
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Take off the exhaust manifold and see if there is any seals still in the rotor when you turn the e-shaft.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:52 AM
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My guess is the engine is blown, people make up all kinds of "easy fix" stories to sell cars. If it was an easy fix they would have done it, and sold the car for more.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 09:51 AM
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i would also take the exhaust manifold off and look in the exhaust ports for broken/missing seals. turn the motor over by hand and look at the apex of each rotor for damage
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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ok... is it possiblr to use some used seals lol... I happen to have an extra motor with bad fron rotor.....
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbird
ok... is it possiblr to use some used seals lol... I happen to have an extra motor with bad fron rotor.....
you CAN use used seals but its not reccommended. you would still have to take the block apart. if your gonna do it, might as well do it right and get new seals.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:30 PM
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any cheap kits you guys know of.. Im seeing average price of 499 bucks......
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