arsinal4496

iTrader: (10)

Rotors, lines, and pads (also tie rod ends, but thats irrelevant)were changed. Took advantage of the long weekend and took all the calipers off and painted them. So the next day i put everything back together, and began bleeding as described in the FSM. Fronts bled rather easily and quick, rears gave me a problem. No matter how many times i did it, air still seemed to be comming out. I had to have bled both rear calipers well over 25 times each and nothing. I did it till i ran out of brake fluid and gave up for the day.

The pedal goes all the way to the floor. Front calipers grab, at least i think, i tried to turn the wheel by hand and cant. Rears CAN be turned even when the break pedal is fully pressed down. I have to pump the pedal several times until the rears grab and i can no longer turn them by hand.

So where did i mess up? Do they have to be bled even further? Is the brake master cylinder bad? I didnt have any problems with the brakes before, other than the pads being low. Anybody know what could be going wrong? Much thanks in advance.

--austin

p.s. wanna post some before and after pics as soon as its working properly. Didnt turn out too bad, haha

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

pick up a bleed gun
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38053

Thats what i used in a simular situation. . You open the valve while pumping and close the valve midway through a pump.. . make sure theres no leaks etc.. If your already dumping out new brake fluid, try to pore it into the container and reuse it.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

There's a special bleeding procedure. You have to bleed the Master cylinder first (If removed, but you *may have to bleed it anyways), then the proportioning valve (little block near the master cylinder), RR, LR, RF, LF wheels in THAT order.

If you have ABS, you need to bleed the brakes in the same sequence, except you bleed the wheels first, then the ABS unit. If it's an S4, there's 1 valve, S5 has 2.

Also, I don't remember if the rear calipers have the screw-type parking brake (the one where you had to screw the piston back in the caliper), but if it does, you sometimes have to pump the parking brake lever a few times before everything works. I had to do that on my daily driver Tiburon numerous times. Those things have shitty brake longevity.

arsinal4496

iTrader: (10)

thanks hypertec & agreen, i will probably pick one up tommorow. And as for bleeding the master cylinder and porportioning valve, neither were removed, but how are they bled? i dont remember seeing a bleeding nipple? the rear calipers are the screw type, ill also try pulling the ebrake a couple times as well.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Is the fluid level going down when you pump the brakes? Is it possible that you have a leak now?

arsinal4496

iTrader: (10)

possiblly? i didnt notice the level going down when it was being pumped, unless it was a very small amount. ill have to check tommorow to be sure. lets hope not. I didnt see any fluid leaking at any of the lines, unless the brake booster or cylinder is leaking internally.

dvs71990

Sometimes the bleeder screw f s up and it wont hold any pressure

arsinal4496

iTrader: (10)

u mean the ones on the actual calipers? wouldnt it leak fluid if they didnt hold any pressure?

Mr.FC3s

Take your master off and bleed it. you will need these little hex head screws that are tiny and will seal up the master. I think you got air into your master and thats why you need to pump it. Or it could be the proportioning valve

arsinal4496

iTrader: (10)

just got in from workin outside. i purchased the same vacuum bleeding kit metioned above. found the same exact one at autozone for 3 bucks cheeper tho pretty liitle tool for the cheep price.

anyways.....first tried bleeding the rears and got the same results, bubbles kept on coming. so i then moved to the proportioning valve, started with the connection that leads to the rear. Had a bunch of bubbles comming out no matter how many times i tried it. so i then moved on to the master cylinder, i disconnected and bled all three line connections one at a time (while still in the car). And there were no air pockets whats so ever, at least it seemed. So i then started to bleed the proportioning valve once again and bubbles came out and eventually stopped. I then moved to the rears and at first they didnt seem to bleed, so i completly removed the bleeder screw and stuck one of the adapters that came with the bleeder kit in the hole. And it seemed to kinda work. Im having problems seeling the connector to the bleeder screw, tried plumbers tape, but didnt seem to work so well. Im gonna keep trying tommorow and find a way to better seal the connections. But i think im almost there. The pedal is MUCH stiffer, and no longer sinks to the floor.

air was/is probably in master cylinder and i got it out with out even noticing it. gonna keep goin at it tommorow or day after and let you guys know. Thanks alot for the help.

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Pick up some speed bleeders and save yourself time and frustration. Go to the Speedbleeder site (http://www.speedbleeder.com/), get the part numbers for your car, and then go to Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com/) and order a set for a lot less $$$.

However, it sounds like air is entering the system at some point in the brake lines. That may be related to a "bad" connection joint. Check them all carefully. Perhaps one is not tight or is cross threaded.

arsinal4496

iTrader: (10)

iv herd good things about those speed bleeders. should have definitely used them this time.

Well anyways here are the pics of the progress. i know there late, but better late than never. Nothing fancy or anything anyone hasnt done before. But heres my take on it.

How they looked like before:







Kinda clean vs really dirty:



After cleaning and a few coats of paint and clear coat:



And finally installed!