Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

ok I have a NA chassis.. got 4piston front calipers, and stainless lines.. Decided to swap in the stainless lines while i swapped the front calipers in as well.. Well after some troubles *stripping the brake line hard end, having to fab up some new ones etc etc.. Ended up making a completly new driver side front hardline, was easy.* I got everything done..

Started with swapping the rear lines, then worked my way up to teh front and swapped the calipers/lines.. Did not bleed til the end, saved it for last.. I started with teh farthest rear, to the other side, i could not get all the air out.. . Like i would have a friend pump the brakes while watching the fluid level and watching the clear bleeder line pump fluid but it had air pockets.. did this for a good while on both rear sides.. Just got feed up and moved to the front thinking I must have drained all the fluid since i pulled everything first.. Well now i got properly bled front brakes. Came back to try the rears again and still air in them...


Any idea where I went wrong? Is there like a central bleeder for the rear or something?

By the way, Im very mechanically experienced from personal hobby, so excuse me if i dont know the technical names of stuff. I did full 300zx front and rear brake conversion on my 240sx and no problems..

I have work tomarrow morning, and the brakes are horrible... so im going to limp it very slow just to work for 4 hours then back home and try it again??

ilia

iTrader: (4)

Get a hand operated vacuum pump from an auto store. They're like $20. Then you use that to create a vacuum behind the bleeder valve so that when you open the valve, no air gets back into your system. Keep pumping it as you open the valve, then close it quickly. It works great.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

so maybe i just got to keep on doing it?? i probably did have the rears disconnected for a few hours as i had to run back and forth to the auto store for misc stuff..

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

How are you bleeding them?

Pump the brake pedal, crack the valve for a second, let off the brake pedal.

Repeat.

If you do it correctly, there is no way for air to move backwards in the system. Try again. Leaving something or other disconnected for a few problems is probably where you went wrong.

Black91n/a

You may have gotten air into the MC, in which case you should bleed it seperately. I suppose maybe you could use the vaccum pump with the two rear caliper bleeders open with tubes into a container of brake fluid and try bleeding it backwards, as the high point is at the front by the MC. Also try just pumping the pedal several times in a row without closing the valve, as this will hopefully get the air past any local high spots and get it moving to the calipers. Also, have you bled both the top and bottom bleeders in the rear?

Zack B

Pump the pedal and hold it down, then crack the bleeder. After you get out all the air you can close the bleeder then let the off the pedal. Repeat as necessary and keep plenty of fluid in the MC during the process. Worked fine for me.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

ok ill grab another buddy and have a go at it. thanks. it was getting cold and fustrating last night i probably overlooked something.. it shouldnt have took me all day doing this hahaha.. gonna have to pick up some more brake fluid and try again. Yah now im thinking theres just a bunch of air in teh system since i had it disconnected for a few hours..

so are there 2 bleeders on the rear calipers? im doing it from the bleeder that faces/closest to the output drive shafts...

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

tried bleeding again at rear calipers.. still alot of air.. What are the top and bottom bleeders at the rear?

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

grrr bleed the top and bottom valves... still air bubbles in this thing.. grrr

Sideview_S13

you'll get it eventually. haha. GL

beefcake

**** ya not try this one mate, just go an undo all 4 bleeder niples front an rear and sit back and watch the air slowly pass through, grab a beer whilst doing such a masters bleed and marvle at how the beefcake has helped you out

Its a comon drip bleed that i do at my workshop almost dailly, it goes against the logicle thoughts on bleeding brakes but trust me just do it, stand round for 5 mins or more just watching them all drip, eventually it will stop passing bubbles and keep the master topped up high whilst doing it, lock em off one at a time and wash the area down as it will be a hell of a mess, but if this doesnt fix it youve got a dodgey master cylinder and running it dry is a common cause for stuffing a master up

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

+1 on gravity bleed, thats what I would do on a bleed like that, or there is also a power bleeder you can get, don't know if they have one for plastic MC's but it is a big drum looking thing that you fill with fluid, compressed air hook it up and start the bleed, no need to pump pedal with it, works fast too

NCross

iTrader: (18)

make sure everything is closed tight. i sat pumping my rears like crazy on the project car and couldn't figure out why it was still so bubbly. the lines coming out of the "F/R splitter" were cracked open. derrr... also connect an air compressor and gently blow air through the lines to unplug the lines if the cars been sitting for a while.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

thanks im gonna try everything tomarrow i got tomarrow off.. so where is this "F/R splitter" located? i cant imagine why id have this problem, everything worked fine b4 i swapped the lines..

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

grrr dammit cant figure it out.. remounted the rear lines tried everything

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Make sure nothing is leaking and everything is tight.

Get in the car (all bleeders clsoed), pump till you get some pedal and stand on the brakes HARD No need to bend the pedal here, but keep real good pressure on it.

Have a buddy (or have the buddy hold the pedal) go under the car and inspect every connection (even ones you didn't touch) for any seepage, and the perso nin the car should never feel the pedal sinking. If the pedal sinks, you've got a bad master or a leak, if you find a leak - you've got a leak And you'll never bleed the system with a leak.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

what i didnt state:
I threw on some used 4piston front calipers and the used pads that where on them *they looked decent, not super worn down* figured would be good enough to get everything goin then put new ones later. New SS brake lines

Put new rear generic pads *NA rear pistons* w/ new SS brake lines.

On the Drivers side front, i stripped the flare nut, so i made a whole new hard line from teh MC to the front brake caliper. It was not hard, however the original line had a loop in it, On the line I made, i did not put the loop, just figured it wouldnt make a difference on the bias.

I did all that stuff at teh same time. I know what i should have done now, is do 1 corner at a time and bleed it before going to each corner. Well I know better now.

Can anybody think of what a shop might be able to do better then me bleeding them myself? Do they have better/special tools that might get all the air out?

I dont have any buddys with me but i been watching it carefully, bleeder open with clear line on it.. run to pump brake, then run back to line and see air traveling up the line into a container of fluid... repeat repeat and still same thing. Top and bottom bleeder I tried to do them both etc..


Im using Valvoline synthetic brake fluid *looks to be the best over the counter autoparts store stuff*.... Could it being synthetic be the problem? I cant see why.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

DUDE there is no way you can pump the brakes and bleed on your own, you are putting air right back into the system when you let off the pedal, if you are alone your only choice is to simply gravity bleed...
put it on jack stands or whatever you have,
loosen all bleeders
keep topping off MC until you are sure that nothing but fluid is coming out..

if you pump the pedal with the bleeder open you will NEVER get air out...
the pedal pump goes as such
one person in car, you under car...
pump pedal up until its hard..
hold it to the floor
open bleeder,
leave it until you get no more fluid
close bleeder snug, and repeat,
you do this until you get a solid steady stream of fluid for a couple seconds
be sure to top of the MC ever few times you do this

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

i can still do it.. i watch the drivers rear.. stretch my body one hand on the bleeder, and my foot on the brake lol

still no go.

Black91n/a

You CAN continuously pump the pedal with the bleeder open. I've done it several times, works fine. Just be sure to hold the pedal down when closing it, otherwise you might draw air back in, but if the hose is full of fluid anyway, it doesn't matter.

Sounds like you need some speed bleeders or a power bleeder.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

One thing about using a ONE MAN brake bleeder kit,is to Have Fluid IN the small bottle,so that when you Let off on the pedal,the Caliper won't suck Back air through the Bleeder..But,I agree with the other guys here..Grab your Girlfriend,your Mom,a Kid from Off the Street.Have them Pump the Pedal Seven times,and then CRACK the bleeder....I do the 7 method.like 3,4 times PER Caliper..It usually Takes the air out..I have also Tried the Gravity Method..Crack the Rear Bleeders and just watch 4 bucks of Brake fluid Ooze out..It works too...DO NOT Let the Master Go DRY..Or you are Starting off from Scratch.Good Luck.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

I hate to think about it, but maybe it could be crappy brake lines? I DID go with some ebay brand lmao.. Stainless steel /coated *before someone says You get what you pay for, I have had good results with ebay parts in the past, so ive already taken that into consideration* . they look decent too.. I just cant figure out why there would be continuous air bubbles in the rear since thats the only thing I touched/changed that I could think of.

Maybe Ill try swapping the stock rubbers on and see if the air in the lines still exist. .. been limping the car back and forth to work with very little brake (my only car so didnt have much option, and its only within 2 miles straight line to work).

My last resort is to take it to a shop to have them bleed them *if they have any other technique that is better then a home job*.. i just dont want to end up spending alot if its something stupidly replacible like if my mc went bad, becuase id rather just upgrade **** to like FD calipers or 929 mc instead of paying to repair pretty much stock brakes.

No visible leaks, fluid level remains topped off

hkp

iTrader: (2)

i was having a problem with my ae86 after i ran the mc dry. i am an a/c tech so what i did was fill the mc up, then i started at the wheel farthest away. i used my vacuum pump that i use to evacuate a/c systems, i cut the end off of one of my old charge lines, slid the line over the bleeder, then cracked bleeder and turned on pump, let it run for about 45 seconds and tightened before shutting off pump. then moved to the wheel second farthest and so on, **** worked perfect. you probably have none of the stuff i just mentioned so it is no help to you but i felt like letting you know another avenue. good luck and im sure its just air in the system, the hydraulic brake system isnt some modern miracle, its nothing like posi-trac on a hemi, we know how it works so it cant fool us, just keep bleeding.

wrankin

Speed bleeders.

Although they aren't great when you have a lot of air in the lines.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

guess there was some high spots in the lines and tons of air got trapped that conventional bleeding wasnt getting them out..

Got serious last night on my last resort and limped the car out to harbor frieght and bought one of these bad boys for around $30...


Im doin it now, gonna do it for a few more minutes, but I think I got it!!!! I got brake pressure now yipppeeee

Brake pedal is now nice and firm. Gonna bleed a little more to make sure i got it all out...