DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,
sorry for the caps but I am in very desperate need of help.
Been driving my 88 N/A for the past few weeks and it has been idleling rough. And just last night it was driving fine then as I got back in the car after a short trip in the mall it had a VERY difficult time starting and once i got it started it sounded as if it was only running on one rotor. It was fine in the 4000-up range so I got it home and when i took a quick look under the car the Main cat was glowing red hot which i understand is a good sign of running rich. So if anybody has any insight as to why one of my primary injectors is giving me to much fuel.
Any and all insight is welcome and I'm sorry for the lack of a search, But im desperate.

It is my only means of transport right now so promptness on the matter will be so completely appreciated.


Thanks alot guys

Sincerely,
Dan

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

If it were an S5, I'd say you were running in limp mode. As it is I'd say you probably have a blown seal. Do a compression check. If that's OK then maybe you're looking at clogged cats.

zinx

iTrader: (3)

I hate to say this too, but it sounds like a blown motor. Definintely do a compression check, even the poor mans (holding a thumb over the plug hole while cranking) will let you know.

shadoe

man i hope its not that bad but it sounds like the exact description of when mine blew

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

god i hope its not that, but one quick question perhaps this sounds stupid but why does it drive fine above 4000 rpm, if the motor is blown that is? trying to be as argumentative as i can because this is really the last thing i want it to be...
Also any1 have a link to the poor mans compression test or could somebody give me a quick run down? I can't seem to source a compression tester in my area so if some one could give me a quick run down i've search and search and can't find it.

Thanks again guys..

Hoping for the best,
Dan

dot_txt

iTrader: (1)

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm

whereiscarmensandiego

u can get a comp tester for around 20 dollars at any auto parts store

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

First, just check the compression. It takes about 5 minutes, max.
Pull the EGI fuse. Take out the leading plug on the front rotor. Crank the motor. You should have 3 strong , evenly spaced pulses. Replace the plug, then repeat on the rear rotor. If you have one strong and 2 weak pulses, then you have a blown apex seal. Also, if you have 3 weak pulses it means the blown seal took out the other apex seals.

Do that, then we will continue with other possible problems it the compression is still ok.

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

Did the compression test on both front and rear rotors. All strong pulses sound's like i believe it should sound. Next step?

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

Ok so now that i have performed the compression check, and found to my satisfaction that my car appears to have good compression.
What should I try next?
What is the quickest easiest thing to do to narrow down the suspect?

dot_txt

iTrader: (1)

You also said it sounded like it was running on one rotor.. Just a guess but that almost sounds like not all 4 plugs are firing (perhaps just the 2 on one rotor). Check your coils, make sure they are working properly. There are instructions on how to do this on the forum (I cant recall the exact procedure).

Hope it works out for you

hanman

Well, could be a leaking injector. Could be a vacuum leak.

Probably the easiest way on the injectors is just to pull them and send them out to be cleaned and balanced. I use RC Engineering www.rceng.com
some of the other guys use Witchhunter etc. Whatever.
When you get them back there will be a sheet of paper with their results. If any of them were leaking, they will let you know.

Vacuum leaks are hard to pinpoint. My personal favorite is to use a propane torch. I open it up and put it around any possible leak areas. If I hit a leak area, the engine will idle up.

hanman

A thought on the injectors. If you put a pressure gauge on the fuel system, and it leaks down to nothing overnight, you probably have a leaking injector.

dot_txt

iTrader: (1)

Yea it could be a vacuum leak.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Your Catalytic is Clogged...That would explain Lack of power,and a Glowing Catalytic..Rx7's Eat catalytics for Breakfast..Drop the cat and look..it would only cost you a couple of exhaust gaskets to Check..and Besides IF that IS the problem,you can HOLLOW IT OUT!..(but I didn't "say that"!)

zinx

iTrader: (3)

Yeah...clogged with apex seals.


The reason the cat is glowing is because a lot of the fuel in the blown rotor isn't being burning in the housing and is getting ignited in the manifold and cat.

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

well I got a compression tester on my motor and everything is good so my motor isnt blown. I did change out my fuel filter and im draining my tank and im gonna get some good clean gas in it and see where that takes me. The gas coming out of the engine side of the filter didn't look to promising.

Also on my rear rotor the one im having trouble with I pulled out my plugs and they were soaked with gasoline, changed them out with no significant change in performance. I've got a strong feeling that I'm having a problem with the primary injector on my rear rotor.

hhn2002

get those cleaned, and check to see if u've got spark on the rear wires.(unplug, place near ground, unplug fuel pump fuse, crank and watch for spark. simple 15 min test)

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

I've got spark on the rear rotor, but I got my intake apart and I will be sending my injectors out to RC shortly. If anyone has any other possible ideas or any suggestions for things to do while i have my intake manifold off let me know. I'm going to clean up the ground on the top of the motor but does any body have any other suggestions?

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

Now almost 4 weeks later I've gotten my car all back together. injectors came back looking brand new and I removed all of the emissions from my engine (BPAV, Cold Start Assist, EGR, and ACV). Everything is blocked off and the car seems to run pretty well. Idle is good after a little adjusting, only issue that I am having now is that it seems to "spit" on deceleration while in gear and gets jumpy in 1st and 2nd gears when I'm lightly on the throttle.
Anyone else have this problem before?

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

is this normal for an emissions removed vehicle? I read some posts about 84-85 gsl-se's that have similar problems with the emissions removed. But from what i've read it only gets better with the emissions reinstalled.

hanman

Double check that your TPS is set correctly.

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

Ok, its running right now. Quite stupidly I was using the TPS adjustment screw to increase my idle. Readjusted it so that now it drives smoothly. Only problem now is that my idle control screw on the top of my throttle body won't increase my idle enough for it to idle smooth. The highest I can get it is about 500 rpm's. It will stay at 500 when its just warmed up but when I drive it and it gets "hotter" the idle dips. Anybody know of another way to increase idle speed? Looked all through the haynes manual couldn't find a thing.

And thank you everyone for all of your help.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Bump the timing up a little bit until the idle increases to around 700 rpm's.

Ramses666

hanman

Dont' change the timing. That makes no sense.

First, completely remove that screw on top of the dynamic chamber, run something through the hole to clean it out, and shoot a little carb cleaner through it. Then replace the oring on the screw and reinstall it. Start the car and see if you can change the idle with that screw. IF not, you have other problems. I would start with the factory manual and step through their idle setting procedure.

Also, set the TPS the correct way, not just turn it till the car idles better. Either use two DMM's or the led two light system.