Hey all,

Doing it the right way and taking apart the rack to remove the seals. However, in the process, I accidentally cut off the rack bushing also. Do I need the rack bushing or will the slight play on the pass. side not be a big deal?

Thanks,
Ben

 

What bushings did you cut off? I don't know what you mean by rack bushings.

 

In the system, there is the "seal" for the PS fluid. This I removed. It is the part that causes the most drag.

Additionally, there is a "Rack Bushing" (using the FC maintenance manual terminology) that seems to be there for some other reason. I guess to ensure no contaminantion enters. It is both an oil seal and a steel bushing. I cut this bushing in 1/2.

Without this bushing, there seems to be a 1/2 mm or so of play at the end of the rack on the pass. side. The driver side has no play because the "rack support" gives a preload.

Does this make sense?

Ben

 

Sorry, but I don't know what is Rack Bushings...lol

 

Your talking about the bushing on the passenger side retained by a clip that slides in a grove???

Yeah I think you would need that.

 

From the 2nd Gen Archive:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/

 

No. I believe you are thinking of the rack stopper.

http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g...ing_system.pdf

Page 11 of the manual item #9 is what I am talking about.

 

Yeah familiar with the post and it is worthless. No mention of the "rack bushing" in it or the website they reference. There are other posts that give much more detail on how to do the job properly.

 

Yeah that's kind of what I was referring to.

Your still going to need that. It doesn't have to seal anymore, but that's what's giving the rack support over there.

And I don't know how the stopper would stay tight.

 

Ummm...doing it the "right way"? The only "right way" is to remove your power rack and install a manual rack.

 

Uh, no. The manual rack is too damn slow. The RIGHT way is to disassemble the rack, remove the seals, and weld the control valve assembly.

 

if you cut the skinny "seal" that looks like a ring with a rubber o-ring in the middle, then thats the one you can cut. if you cut something else, you might run into problems with the rack.