EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

So, today I was enjoying having my FC halfway back from the dead since I got it running this last Saturday. I come home from work and crank it up, let it reach operating temperature while the idle is bouncy and it's running extremely rich. I shut it off and go inside for an hour, come back outside to start it and it's flooded...bad.

Do the typical unflood procedure, 30A EGI fuse, spark plugs removed, crank, rest, crank...etc. Reinstall everything (I've done this a million times), get in the car, turn the key to ON, and notice the CEL light doesn't light up with the rest in the idiot cluster. I didn't really mind it at first until I went to crank it and it didn't start after about 10 seconds, I let go of the key and realize the fuel pump isn't humming. Also, the Tach isn't bouncing when I attempt to start it, but coolant temp, fuel level gauge, and voltage gauge all work.

I've checked connections at the MAF, checked EGI fuse and tried with 3 other 30A fuses, and cleared the ECU twice. Still not enabling the CEL light

What would make all of the above happen while not blowing any fuses?

Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated. I'm ready to get this jive-turkey back on the road again.

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

Anyone?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I will take a shot at this.OK..you removed the EGI right?..when you Could NOT hear the Pump,was the EGI Removed?..,And as far as the Tach NOT working.Since the Trailing is responsible for the Tach Reading,either you STILL have the EGI out.OR the Plugs are Fouled and NOT Sparking..if they are not Sparking,then the Tach Reads NOTHING.(no spark)..

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

No fuel pump noise with or without the 30A EGI fuse. (have tried several fuses BTW)
No initial Check Engine Light upon turning the key to the ON position.
No bouncing tach while cranking.

Is my ECU dead? The rest of the idiot cluster/clock lights up, just no Check Engine Light. I'm so lost and I hate electricity

mazdakarate

if for sure no fuel is being pumped... sparks spark, starter cranks, I'd be sure check the pump at the source to find the problem. In the trunk. My stock pump was gave out too. I know electricity is going to the wire that connects to the fuel pump so why else wouldn't it work.. I'm waiting on a pm for a new one. GL!

HAILERS

You blew the EGI fuse or the ENGINE fuse one. Check both.

By the way. Stop pulling the EGI fuse for deflooding on your series five. That procedure is only applicable to series four. On a series five you hold the pedal to the floor to deflood.

Here's is what happens when you do that on a series five. Holding the pedal to the floor makes the TPS go full travel. If you hold the key to START, the ECU sees both conditons and cuts fuel to the injectors as long as the key is held to START. Hence the deflooding of the engine. Got cranking and spark but no fuel. An ideal conditon for deflooding a engine.

ENGINE fuse is in the interior. Look at it IF the EGI fuse is Proven good.

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

Both EGI fuse and Engine fuse check out fine. I have already tried several 30A fuses in the EGI fuse spot with no luck.

HAILERS: I didn't know that you weren't supposed to deflood an S5 that way I usually use the 100% throttle method but in this case it was extremely flooded and that method wasn't working.

HAILERS

Fuel pump only runs with the key held to Start or the engine is actually running. But you said the tach does not bounce when trying to start the engine, so I guess there is a problem somewhere.

I pretty much have no idea if the fuses are good. I'd get a meter out and see if there is power to the coils as a first step. Just pull the small, white, two wire connector apart at the Lead coil assy and see if there is power on the black/yellow wire in that plug. Don't mess with the other wire in that plug.

If you have power there..........duh. Got me.

I have seen a engine run with no tach before. What will happen in some odd occasions, if the ECU will kill the signal to the trail coil and only the lead coil will work. It's a failsafe feature mentioned in the Training Manual that is online. I've had that happen to me twice. Once when the batt was low, low, low and the engine finally started. I drove it and noticed no tach. Put the car in neutral and coasted with the key Off. Then key on and dumped the clutch in gear and all was well again. Tach worked from then on.

Soooooo, go to a lead spakplug wire. Hold it in your hand. Touch the chassis with your other hand. Have someone spin the engine over and see if you tingle when he does that. Turn you pacemaker off prior to doing that. humor

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

I'm saying the fuel pump is not kicking on because after you attempt cranking it, it will pump for a good 5 seconds to prime fuel pressure up and then shut off. So that's what I'm basing the fuel pump thing on. The check engine light thing is what's bothering me, the way it's behaving is exactly how it behaves without that EGI fuse installed. But since it's installed and it's a good fuse I'm kind of wondering if it is the ECU finally giving out?

Thanks.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Have you tried using a jumper to verify that the fuel pump still works?

5-Port-Hank

iTrader: (1)

Which only works in the event that the TPS doesn't flake out on the top end. If the flooding is a result of a TPS malfunction in the first place, the full throttle method will only make it worse. I've been through that loop several times, and ended up using the -last resort- EGI fuse method.

HAILERS

Show me anywhere in the series four or series five FSM where there is a Prime of the fuel system. There is no such thing. The closest to Prime you'll ever get is when you HOLD the key to Start and the fuel pump runs while you HOLD the key to Start.

I'd suggest you take Shainiac's advice and jumper the fuel pump check connector to see if the pump will run with that jumpered and the key to ON.

To bad you don't have a meter. Your not going to fix this car without one. Unless you get into parts swapping. Expensive way of fixing anything.

CyberPitz

Hmmm, I'm going to keep an eye on this, as I don't think my fuel pump is working in my S4 NA. I now know about the "Engine" fuse. Gotta make sure it works now :p At least this thread gave me another place to look! \o/

HAILERS

Just go to the fuel pump check connector located near the right front strut tower. Yellow in color. Two sockets. Jumper a piece of wire across both sockets. Key to ON. You should be able to hear the fuel going thru the fuel rails and back to the fuel tank constantly. If you can't then there's a problem. You can also listen at the fuel cap if you have a hearing difficulty.

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

What I was trying to say was that after attempting a start, the fuel pump on my car normally stays on for 5 seconds after you stop trying to start it. That normality was gone, that's when I knew there was something wrong...when I didn't hear the pump staying on. Sorry if me referring to it as "priming" confused you, I didn't mean to mix up terms and I was trying to make this as easy to explain as possible.

Well, I did find my Fluke multi-meter just now, but alas, it's too late. Problem's been found. Turns out a faulty wire at the MAF sensor harness was the culprit.

So if your CEL won't light up when you initially turn the key to the ON position, and your fuel pump won't come on : Check your MAF sensor connection, even down to where it meets with the main engine harness.

Thanks.