Or, at least that seems good... can't figure out whats wrong...
Okay, so my clutch has been leaking like a BITCH and i've been thinking its oil because its YELLOW... so i smelled it and HOLY **** it's brake fluid... and good god my clutch is leaking like a bastard... oh well, i'll worry about that when i want to stop or shift :P
In the mean time, I went to turn it over, and it cranked for a few seconds like the battery was dying... then it ceased to click. Oh well, thought I, easy fix. Well, swapped in a new battery, even ran two in parallel with 4awg jumper cables... still the same thing... and I know at least one of thows batteries is good...
So, did clutch fliud spill onto the wiring to the starter and kill it? is the starter bad? if the clutch was engaged (in N mind you) would that keep it from starting? I'm pissed. Again LoL...

 

How old is the starter? And did she start doing this little-by-little?

 

idk... at leasta couple years... and its been real strong until it just... stopped... thats why i didn't think it was the starter...

 

How easily can you turn the engine from the front bolt? (3/4" or 19mm deep-well socket).

What about the rest of the electrical systems on the car? Any other anomalies?

 

other elec systems are working fine...
i set a torque wrench on 100 ft-lbs and couldn't turn it from the front bolt... think i should try more?

 

Hmm, she should move before that...Are you turning her clockwise, looking at it from the front of the engine bay? You have her in neutral, right?

 

turning it the right way... got it in neutral... NEW data...
okay, so i shifted into reverse and let the gears stop the car (no brakes). I started pushing as hard as i could backwards and as opposed to the engine turning over the engine sorta tried to twist sideways... wtf can i do...

 

aight bump... is the engine carbon locked? c'mon... i need a car to drive...

 

Wow...Make sure no belt-driven accessories are seizing her up first of all.

How many miles on the engine/seals? Anything you've done to her in the last couple of days? Did she overheat or anything?

 

its a fresh rebuild
im scared thow because it about ran out of oil the other day...
loosened the belts, still same problem..
haven't driven anywhere... just revved in the driveway... then when i went to turn it on it acted like the batt was dying... and then it just kinda stopped... and thus is where i've been...

 

I hope you didn't just answer your own question, but I'm afraid you might have. If the bearings ran dry, that would do it

 

****.
thats what i was afraid of.
okay, so do you think if i just crank it slowly with too much oil in the pan that i could fix it without rippin it apart again? or anything i can do without totally tearing it down again?

 

Maybe pressurize the oil system, using the oil cooler hose going to the aft fitting on the engine and some form of pump, that might get oil through the e-shaft and onto the bearings, but I'm not sure-never tried it. You could work under the assumption that it's just the apex seals seizing, and inject some oil into the rotor housings from the leading plug holes, but the problem is you can't get her to turn at all, right?

 

thats right... i might try that...
you mean the side closest to the firewall right?

 

bumpage... my engine is seized because it decided to lose all its oil very quickly... so what can i do to fix it without ripping the entire car apart?

 

Yes, the side closest to the firewall. If you can somehow get pressurized oil into that fitting, it will flow up through the filter pedestal, then down the rear housing and into the e-shaft, if I remember the flow correctly. Once in the e-shaft, with enough pressure, it will flow into the rotor bearings from one set of jets, and onto the main bearings from another. At least in theory, lol...

If you think you're getting some oil into there, try turning her again from the front bolt to see if you're getting anywhere...

Something to try before tearing her down again, anyway...

If you seized or spun a bearing, she's going to be iffy regardless...

 

okay, so pump oil right? or would it be okay to pump air?

 

so when i pump oil through the system... i'm assuming air won't work since air won't displace oil... won't that create a bubble somewhere? or will it just get PCV'd out?

 

Why would you want to pump air? I'm working under the assumption that you let the oil pump run out of feed oil, thus running the bearings dry after a bit. This is, of course, the worst case scenario, and if someone else can chime in & describe how to get some fresh oil to those bearings without running the car that's better than my pump idea, I'm all ears

Basically, you need to simulate the oil pump pressures going into that aft oil cooler hose fitting without having the oil pump do it for you...

Hell, it could be a chunk of carbon or crapped-out apex seal for all I know, I'm just taking an educated guess here using your described symptoms...

 

naw, the bearings need oil.... so it has to be oil... i was gonna put a pump on the cooler and the hose and just pump...
EDIT: oh, just got what you're talkin about... so no matter what, some pressure should do the trick thow, right? i doubt its completely seized...