Dear Forum Member: What did you use to notch your frame :-)
#5
...94% correct.
I'm not aware of a better way unless you use the TII intake assembly, which requires port matching and running the possibillity of damaging your intake...
Or you could just build a better manifold...
Or you could just build a better manifold...
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#9
Super Raterhater
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In my experience, no. Also, you can use a number of other manifold setups, and hacking up TII intakes is a lot better than hacking your frame, but sitll is another hackjob method.
custom manifolds is the way to go, but people are cheap.
custom manifolds is the way to go, but people are cheap.
#10
Play Well
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I am pretty sure this is one of those very debated things. Or is it the S5 vs the s4. I could flow bench them to see lol. As soon as my new motor and all its parts I have ordered for it get here.
#12
...94% correct.
Originally Posted by PhilM
makenzie71, do you own a TL?
if so, this is really weird meeting you here!
Phil
if so, this is really weird meeting you here!
Phil
hey...I just now got to test the box and it works good, but I some more practice with it to get the bike going really well. I'm taking deposits for 5 units at the moment to foward to you...just to get a few more out to more experienced people to make sure I'm not missing any bugs.
I'll get an email off to you in a bit.
[/unbelievably off-topic]
#17
Engine, Not Motor
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Sawzall. But if I had put more thought into it, I would not have had to notch the frame.
In order of easy to hard:
1. Remote mount the actuator. Use a section of bicycle cable to connect to wastegate level.
2. Move actuator up on the compressor housing, then bend up and weld a custom rod.
3. Make a 2nd spacer to move the turbo up and off the frame. This spacer goes between the stock manifold and turbo. Kind of stupid, though.
4. Custom manifold.
Of course, if you are using the TII intakes, then this is not necessary. But in my opinion, if you are using the TII intakes, you might as well just use the whole TII engine...
In order of easy to hard:
1. Remote mount the actuator. Use a section of bicycle cable to connect to wastegate level.
2. Move actuator up on the compressor housing, then bend up and weld a custom rod.
3. Make a 2nd spacer to move the turbo up and off the frame. This spacer goes between the stock manifold and turbo. Kind of stupid, though.
4. Custom manifold.
Of course, if you are using the TII intakes, then this is not necessary. But in my opinion, if you are using the TII intakes, you might as well just use the whole TII engine...
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