de-power the power steering gear with pics from my 86na
04-22-07, 12:36 AM
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de-power the power steering gear with pics from my 86na
de-power the power steering gear
This was on my 86 sport with the 15.2:1 steering gear(can also be done on the 17.4:1). This is not for everyone in my opinion, since it is harder to turn, harder to park, and harder to anything when turning. If you always one hand steer, this isnt for you. You may suffer from the rack being to hard to turn but after a while, once you get used to it, its not too bad. For me, it took me a week to get used to, but it will vary from person to person. Again this is on the 15.2:1, the 17.4:1 would be a easier choice to live with. So why would anyone do this? It takes some weight off and the steering is indescribable.
The link to the pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7019132...7600080908537/
I will add the All DATA exploded view of parts on monday.
Before you begin, it is not my fault for anything that goes wrong!!
Preparations
IN ENGINE BAY
Remove P/S belt.
Disconnect hoses on the pump.
Remove P/S pump.
Remove P/S tensioner pulley.
UNDER THE CAR
Take the wheels off.
Remove the sway bar.
Disconnect the wires that go to the radiator switch. Remove switch. It is located in the lower left corner of the radiator. It gets in the way when removing the steering gear.
Separate the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles.
Remove brackets that mount the steering gear.
Remove pinch bolt at the steering gear imput shaft clamp. Use a screwdriver to open clamp up a little.
Remove or cut off lines to the steering gear.
Manuever steering gear out of car.
Disassembly On A Vise
Remove tie rod boots.
Remove inner tie rods. Make sure the spring pins are removed first.
Remove the lock nut, yoke plug, spring then rack support.
Remove pinion plug, then lock nut.
Remove cover plate on the steering gear imput shaft, then the snap ring.
The control valve assembly is now exposed. Remove the o-rings and plunger, these are no longer needed.
Remove the rack stopper by rotating it clockwise until one side of the clip comes out, then counterclockwise to remove it. Only spinning the rack stopper clockwise will result in the clip snapping and a fun time trying to get the clip out.
Pull the rack out. Cut the seal with a dremel. Cut the seal enoungh so that you can split it with a chizel or screwdriver. You may need to cut in two or three places. JUST BE CAREFUL
Remove the rack bushing and remove the oil seal from it. Carefully use a screwdriver and do not damage the bushing. Toss the seal.
Clean everything up.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly.
The Things that shouldnt go back in the rack are the o-rings and plunger on the control valve assembly, the seal on the rack, and the rack bushing seal.
Make sure the rack teeth are greased along with the pinion.
The oil line fittings can go back on the steering gear. Just cut off the lines and cap them off.
Torque evrything to spec.
pinion lock nut= 14-22 ft-lb
pinion plug= 36-51 ft-lb
yoke plug= tighten the yoke plug then loosen it 25-35 degrees. 14-22 ft-lb
Note: The yoke plug may need to be torqued under spec, if the preload high.
lock nut= 29-43 ft-lb
This was on my 86 sport with the 15.2:1 steering gear(can also be done on the 17.4:1). This is not for everyone in my opinion, since it is harder to turn, harder to park, and harder to anything when turning. If you always one hand steer, this isnt for you. You may suffer from the rack being to hard to turn but after a while, once you get used to it, its not too bad. For me, it took me a week to get used to, but it will vary from person to person. Again this is on the 15.2:1, the 17.4:1 would be a easier choice to live with. So why would anyone do this? It takes some weight off and the steering is indescribable.
The link to the pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7019132...7600080908537/
I will add the All DATA exploded view of parts on monday.
Before you begin, it is not my fault for anything that goes wrong!!
Preparations
IN ENGINE BAY
Remove P/S belt.
Disconnect hoses on the pump.
Remove P/S pump.
Remove P/S tensioner pulley.
UNDER THE CAR
Take the wheels off.
Remove the sway bar.
Disconnect the wires that go to the radiator switch. Remove switch. It is located in the lower left corner of the radiator. It gets in the way when removing the steering gear.
Separate the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles.
Remove brackets that mount the steering gear.
Remove pinch bolt at the steering gear imput shaft clamp. Use a screwdriver to open clamp up a little.
Remove or cut off lines to the steering gear.
Manuever steering gear out of car.
Disassembly On A Vise
Remove tie rod boots.
Remove inner tie rods. Make sure the spring pins are removed first.
Remove the lock nut, yoke plug, spring then rack support.
Remove pinion plug, then lock nut.
Remove cover plate on the steering gear imput shaft, then the snap ring.
The control valve assembly is now exposed. Remove the o-rings and plunger, these are no longer needed.
Remove the rack stopper by rotating it clockwise until one side of the clip comes out, then counterclockwise to remove it. Only spinning the rack stopper clockwise will result in the clip snapping and a fun time trying to get the clip out.
Pull the rack out. Cut the seal with a dremel. Cut the seal enoungh so that you can split it with a chizel or screwdriver. You may need to cut in two or three places. JUST BE CAREFUL
Remove the rack bushing and remove the oil seal from it. Carefully use a screwdriver and do not damage the bushing. Toss the seal.
Clean everything up.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly.
The Things that shouldnt go back in the rack are the o-rings and plunger on the control valve assembly, the seal on the rack, and the rack bushing seal.
Make sure the rack teeth are greased along with the pinion.
The oil line fittings can go back on the steering gear. Just cut off the lines and cap them off.
Torque evrything to spec.
pinion lock nut= 14-22 ft-lb
pinion plug= 36-51 ft-lb
yoke plug= tighten the yoke plug then loosen it 25-35 degrees. 14-22 ft-lb
Note: The yoke plug may need to be torqued under spec, if the preload high.
lock nut= 29-43 ft-lb
04-22-07, 11:23 AM
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Great write-up. Pretty much exactly how I did mine (though mine is a 17:1 rack).
To make the finished product look a little more 'finished' I plugged the holes on the pinion portion of the housing with some two-part JBWeld type stuff. Just remember to do this while everything is apart so you don't accidentally push the putty into the pinion casing. I also made 'plugs' out of the fluid line connectors with the same stuff (removed the threaded connectors from the lines and plugged them with the JBWeld stuff). Looks a bit nicer than having pinched off P/S lines sticking out.
-chris
To make the finished product look a little more 'finished' I plugged the holes on the pinion portion of the housing with some two-part JBWeld type stuff. Just remember to do this while everything is apart so you don't accidentally push the putty into the pinion casing. I also made 'plugs' out of the fluid line connectors with the same stuff (removed the threaded connectors from the lines and plugged them with the JBWeld stuff). Looks a bit nicer than having pinched off P/S lines sticking out.
-chris
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