hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well I was fallowing these directions:

"There’s six 13mm bolts holding it on with small brackets sandwiched between the bolts and the housing. This is a compression fitting – you’ll understand once you get it apart. Take off the four bolts that you can easily get to – again, with a combination wrench and a hammer. There are two bolts directly under where the oil lines attach. Before you loosen those, mark the relationship of the turbine housing to the center section. Use a marker, or some correction fluid, or a grease pencil just to check yourself come assembly time. Start in on those two bolts. They’ll eventually start hitting the center section – that’s OK. Work on each side, alternating back and forth. The bolts will push the turbine housing off. Eventually it will be free and you can remove the bolts. Lift the center section straight up – it should pull free easily. You’ll see the whole turbine wheel now."

And reinstallation:

"OK, now for the turbine housing. Put it on your turbo stand, and set the rest of the turbo onto it. You’ll have to start the top and bottom bolts that hit the center section first. Don’t forget the bracket that goes around the bolts Evenly tighten all the bolts so the center section compresses itself into the turbine housing. Keep checking and make sure the turbo still spins freely and that it’s not hanging up."

And then I was to the last bolts (the hard ones to get out because they are right under where the oil lines attach. Anyways One of the bolts was pretty easy to get up to the stoping point but the other one was a little tougher. Anyways on the last bolt I back it almost all the way out and the ****** breaks! and the ******* hot side will not come loose to boot! What should I do?? No ******* turbo shops around me!!! I'm ******' pissed!!!! Sorry for the language just very hard to discribe how mad I am!

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

someone anyone please give me some idea of what to do????

rs_1101

its just a bolt right? call summit or if your cheap like me go to ace hardware..

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

For loosening the hot side, have a small rubber mallet you can give it a few CAREFULL whacks with??

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well the bolt that broke is stuck in the hot side under where the oil return lines are. Thanks spyder I'm going to try and beat on it now!

spyder you are the man! I gave it some not so carefull wacks with a wrench and it came loose. now I just have to bring it to the machine shop tomorrow and have them now drill the freakin bold out and I have to find a 13 mm bolt somewhere oh well at least all is not lost (so I think).

RylAssassin

Ok so your talking about disassembling the turbo right? Your trying to take apart the hot side from the other side?
What i would do is cut the top of the bolt off with a dremell so that you can get the bracket off and then finish disassembling the turbo. Then once you have everything taken apart extract that bolt you broke off or do what you have to and then repair the thread if need be.

This is going to take some patience and finess man so take it easy and cool off before you start it. Just treat it like any other bolt that breaks off on the engine, dont worry man its all fixable.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

here is what I"m talking about.

ps. thanks assassin for the help. If did get the hotside off and luckily I do alot of computer work for a local machine shop so I will just have them do everything including drill and tap the screw.

TwistedRotors

iTrader: (3)

Don't worry hondahater, when I pulled my turbo apart to port the wastegate I broke two of those bolts before I wisened up. Once I got the housings apart I put the hot side in a vice and very carefully drilled both of them out. Then went to a local fastener shop and got some stainless steel replacements of the right size. Easy!
-John

BlaCkPlaGUE

Looks like an easy job to me. Get a drill bit just under that size, some oil and boom. I did this to my TB for the TB mod and it worked like a charm, didn't damage any of the internal threads so I can put the TB back to stock later on if I want, just have to find some screws.

ilike2eatricers

^blackplague- what does using oil when drilling do or help?

Nicks87

it keeps the bit from binding and keeps it cooler, kinda like what deep earth drillers do when they go through rock. Keeps the bit sharper too

BlaCkPlaGUE

^exactly. Keeps the friction down, wich in turn does everything he said. If you don't use oil, your bit will be dead nice and quick.

I just have a capfull of 10W30 at my side when drilling, works like a charm. Take a small q-tip, dab the oil, and then dab it on the application. Drill and when you get about 3mm deeper, add more oil, continue.

But yea, that turbo is weaksauce for getting the screw out.

Icemark

title edited... no profanity in titles

87RX7TII

just drill it out yourself like everyone says. It happend to us all before.
My worst were the holding pins for the front brakes. 2 in each side I had to cut the heads off and spend 1/2 hour on each bolt to hammer it out. I swear they were the original brake pads the car came with....

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol, thanks icemark I was kinda pissed last night, and thanks everyone else for the help. At first when the bolt broke the hotside would still not come off so I thought there was going to be no way to drill and tap this hole however when the spyder told me to bang on it with a hammer I did and the hot side came off, yeah! So now its off to a machine shop to get the wastegate ported the hole re drilled and tapped as well as the manifold is going to have the stock flaper for the twin scroll removed and tapped with a bolt.