DAMN! need help ASAP plz. car car starts but dies
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
DAMN! need help ASAP plz. car car starts but dies
ok its 10 PM and im at work. i just went out to start my car. and its starts ok. then it starts to die. i give more gas and the more i give it just starts to die more!!!!then it just dies and every time after that it gets harder and harder to start wont stay at idle.
i have a coolent problem as you all know by now. could it be coolent making its way into the engine? there wasnt any smoke when i first started it up.
i smelt a small fregrance of gas when i opened the hood. any way it could be fuel pressure at all?
i need help ASAP im stuck at work!
i have a coolent problem as you all know by now. could it be coolent making its way into the engine? there wasnt any smoke when i first started it up.
i smelt a small fregrance of gas when i opened the hood. any way it could be fuel pressure at all?
i need help ASAP im stuck at work!
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#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
spark plugs are brand new. and i have magnacore 10mm wires. i unflouded it once already and same thing happend....its dies with in the first 15 seconds. seems like it just floods it self. i adjusted my SAFC to see if anything would change by making it lean possibly but nothin.
it was a cold start. i checked the rad cap water came gushing out.i checked the top hose, i couldnt see anything, meaning it diddnt seem to keep pressure. and the overflow tank has risen yet again
it was a cold start. i checked the rad cap water came gushing out.i checked the top hose, i couldnt see anything, meaning it diddnt seem to keep pressure. and the overflow tank has risen yet again
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
spark plugs are brand new. and i have magnacore 10mm wires. i unflouded it once already and same thing happend....its dies with in the first 15 seconds. seems like it just floods it self. i adjusted my SAFC to see if anything would change by making it lean possibly but nothin.
it was a cold start. i checked the rad cap water came gushing out.i checked the top hose, i couldnt see anything, meaning it diddnt seem to keep pressure. and the overflow tank has risen yet again
if that is the case though i diddnt see any smoke at all which is SO WEIRD
it was a cold start. i checked the rad cap water came gushing out.i checked the top hose, i couldnt see anything, meaning it diddnt seem to keep pressure. and the overflow tank has risen yet again
if that is the case though i diddnt see any smoke at all which is SO WEIRD
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
does that control the pulse of the fuel and make it kinda like one stream??
sorry but am so fet up with my car right now. its like a janga car some one once told me
sorry but am so fet up with my car right now. its like a janga car some one once told me
#13
Boosting Again
Originally Posted by skatingsamurai
sorry for the 2x post.... and what happens when this PD goes bad?
car goes up in flames.
check for vacum leaks, make sure intake is on, AFM is connected if any vac hoses are off. make sure you haev fuel spark and air.
#16
The PD leaks fuel all over the hot manifold...
Here... I got this from rotaryresurrection...
RX-7s made during this time frame had a small round device on the primary(lower) fuel rail called a pulsation dampner, or PD/FPD for short. Often these fail allowing raw fuel to be shot out, which then runs down the side of the engine onto the hot exhaust manifold. Many junkyard rx-7s died a fiery death because of this, and many owners have had their cars catch fire spontaneously due to this. However, there is a simple and cheap permanent fix with no side effects for the owner who wants to take the time to correct the condition. Here are directions:
1. obtain a spare primary fuel rail from an 86-88 non turbo engine. Note the FPD on one end, (the larger mushroom shaped part) and the banjo bolt on the other end(hollow bolt). Remove the banjo bolt (banjo bolt size is 12mm x 1.25) and discard the rail. See image 1.
2. Remove the primary rail from your car. You will need to remove the intercooler(turbo models), upper intake, middle intake(nonturbo models), and assorted hoses, cables, and wires to do so. The lower fuel rail is bolted to the pass. Side of the block, where the intake mates to the engine.
3. remove your FPD from your fuel rail. See images 2 and 3.
4. install the banjo bolt you removed from the spare rail into your rail. Be sure to use both copper crush washers and tighten this bolt down well. See image 4.
Put it all back together. Be sure to get the fuel lines and injectors seated and tight, and inspect for leaks. See image 5.
Here... I got this from rotaryresurrection...
RX-7s made during this time frame had a small round device on the primary(lower) fuel rail called a pulsation dampner, or PD/FPD for short. Often these fail allowing raw fuel to be shot out, which then runs down the side of the engine onto the hot exhaust manifold. Many junkyard rx-7s died a fiery death because of this, and many owners have had their cars catch fire spontaneously due to this. However, there is a simple and cheap permanent fix with no side effects for the owner who wants to take the time to correct the condition. Here are directions:
1. obtain a spare primary fuel rail from an 86-88 non turbo engine. Note the FPD on one end, (the larger mushroom shaped part) and the banjo bolt on the other end(hollow bolt). Remove the banjo bolt (banjo bolt size is 12mm x 1.25) and discard the rail. See image 1.
2. Remove the primary rail from your car. You will need to remove the intercooler(turbo models), upper intake, middle intake(nonturbo models), and assorted hoses, cables, and wires to do so. The lower fuel rail is bolted to the pass. Side of the block, where the intake mates to the engine.
3. remove your FPD from your fuel rail. See images 2 and 3.
4. install the banjo bolt you removed from the spare rail into your rail. Be sure to use both copper crush washers and tighten this bolt down well. See image 4.
Put it all back together. Be sure to get the fuel lines and injectors seated and tight, and inspect for leaks. See image 5.
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
ok i tried to start my car again and i diddnt get anything at all the first 2 times, then the third i got 1 crank turn over on the 2 and 3rd revolutions and went back to cranking. tried it one more time and got the same thing.
Q could it be injectors gone bad? or what about the fuel pump. or PD?
the reason i think it could be the fuel pump is that its not putting any gas threw the lines? or maybe it could be that i dont have any gas. when i arived at work the needle was overlaying the top of the E.
Q when does the tank ACCUALLY run out? at the top or at the bottom of the E mark?
Q could it be injectors gone bad? or what about the fuel pump. or PD?
the reason i think it could be the fuel pump is that its not putting any gas threw the lines? or maybe it could be that i dont have any gas. when i arived at work the needle was overlaying the top of the E.
Q when does the tank ACCUALLY run out? at the top or at the bottom of the E mark?
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
all vacuum hoses have been replaced with silicon ones...
there isnt any vacuum leak THIS big that i know of that would keep the car from starting.
there isnt any vacuum leak THIS big that i know of that would keep the car from starting.
#23
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sounds like its flooded , sounds like origonally you had a big vac leak or the afm wasn't plugewd in or died, differnt cars run out a differnt places, the gauges are pretty old. If it was the pd youd prolly smell fuel.
#24
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go get a gallon of gas from the closest gas station if its within walking distance,.. you can hurt the fuel pump if you keep trying to run it without gas.
#25
Lives on the Forum
Is the car on an incline?
Put some freakin' gas in her, man
DO NOT run the pump dry- you'll seize it up, she depends on that fuel for internal lubrication...
Put some freakin' gas in her, man
DO NOT run the pump dry- you'll seize it up, she depends on that fuel for internal lubrication...