Custom TID while keeping stock airbox?
10-18-10, 10:41 AM
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Custom TID while keeping stock airbox?
My TID is torn, instead of paying $200+ for a new one I would like to piece something together.
Has anyone made something that fits while retaining the stock s4 TII airbox and AFM?
Has anyone made something that fits while retaining the stock s4 TII airbox and AFM?
10-18-10, 10:45 AM
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I searched and went through 114 topics and still couldn't find anything. Here's some pics of the stock setup with some emissions deleted. Stock bac is still there.
10-18-10, 11:30 AM
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sorta? my friends car has stock airbox, custom TID, into GT35 on a stock S5 turbo manifold....
the "custom" TID is a couple of 90 degree silicon elbows and a piece of pipe, it probably cost $200.
i think the simplest way would be to replace just the lower half of the TID with a silicon hose
the "custom" TID is a couple of 90 degree silicon elbows and a piece of pipe, it probably cost $200.
i think the simplest way would be to replace just the lower half of the TID with a silicon hose
10-18-10, 12:44 PM
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Well... I think you have two options on this one
Option 1: If you aren't dead set about keeping the airbox you could do the TID Mod (requires Air Pump Removal).
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/TID.htm
Costs about $30 - $50
Option 2: Corksport has a Aluminum TID
Costs $139
http://www.corksport.com/corksport-p...rx7-turbo.html
Option 1: If you aren't dead set about keeping the airbox you could do the TID Mod (requires Air Pump Removal).
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/TID.htm
Costs about $30 - $50
Option 2: Corksport has a Aluminum TID
Costs $139
http://www.corksport.com/corksport-p...rx7-turbo.html
11-03-10, 06:09 PM
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I tried to post a reply while the thread was still new but something with the board login wouldn't keep me logged in long enough to post.
I picked up a corksport aluminum pipe. It doesn't seem to fit with the stock airbox very well. Almost like it was made a inch or so too long.
After Pulling the airbox out and putting it back in I can't get the car to hold idle. I can start it and rev it but its being a POS.
It's always been hard to start, even with the last motor. I pulled some emissions crap awhile back with the new motor and now you have to hold the gas for a few min to warm it up before it would idle. I'm suspecting its something to do with the fuel pump resistor or the afm. The wiring looks like it has seen better days....
I do have a s5 motor with the s5 front cover on it and ghetto rigged a upper radiator hose with a piece of exhaust pipe that has a hole tapped and a fitting threaded for the coolant sensor. It's got a wire running to ground for the pipe and the wire is clamped to the outer part of the sensor/hole bung.
The motor has good compression, what could make it run like ****, lack power, and be hard to start cold?
Hot starts are fine. It always firesright up (not idling now due to screwing with tid).
Is there a check valve for the fuel pump? It would buck/act like fuel cut and the 'solution' was to unscrew the gas cap a little and the tank was heavily pressurized. I got a new gas cap so I ruled that out. Also a new fuel filter under the brake booster.
Injectors? Fuel pump? Fuel pump check valve? clogged charcoal canister?
I have a 3 way T going to the passenger side intake nipple. 1 to pressure sensor on strut tower, 1 from the turbo intake duct bypass valve, and #3 go's to the nipple on the intake.
I also have a battery drain issue, something is shorting to the body. EVERYTIME you touch the body when getting in/out it zaps your leg. Battery drains in 3 or 4 days if it hasn't been run.
Also the charge light is always on. ALternator was tested at napa and its good. I also have a spare thats also good.
Its a 87 TII, its going on 24 years old so I know the wiring is gonna be questionable. But aside from buying a new $800 or $900 wiring harness. Where should I start looking?
I picked up a corksport aluminum pipe. It doesn't seem to fit with the stock airbox very well. Almost like it was made a inch or so too long.
After Pulling the airbox out and putting it back in I can't get the car to hold idle. I can start it and rev it but its being a POS.
It's always been hard to start, even with the last motor. I pulled some emissions crap awhile back with the new motor and now you have to hold the gas for a few min to warm it up before it would idle. I'm suspecting its something to do with the fuel pump resistor or the afm. The wiring looks like it has seen better days....
I do have a s5 motor with the s5 front cover on it and ghetto rigged a upper radiator hose with a piece of exhaust pipe that has a hole tapped and a fitting threaded for the coolant sensor. It's got a wire running to ground for the pipe and the wire is clamped to the outer part of the sensor/hole bung.
The motor has good compression, what could make it run like ****, lack power, and be hard to start cold?
Hot starts are fine. It always firesright up (not idling now due to screwing with tid).
Is there a check valve for the fuel pump? It would buck/act like fuel cut and the 'solution' was to unscrew the gas cap a little and the tank was heavily pressurized. I got a new gas cap so I ruled that out. Also a new fuel filter under the brake booster.
Injectors? Fuel pump? Fuel pump check valve? clogged charcoal canister?
I have a 3 way T going to the passenger side intake nipple. 1 to pressure sensor on strut tower, 1 from the turbo intake duct bypass valve, and #3 go's to the nipple on the intake.
I also have a battery drain issue, something is shorting to the body. EVERYTIME you touch the body when getting in/out it zaps your leg. Battery drains in 3 or 4 days if it hasn't been run.
Also the charge light is always on. ALternator was tested at napa and its good. I also have a spare thats also good.
Its a 87 TII, its going on 24 years old so I know the wiring is gonna be questionable. But aside from buying a new $800 or $900 wiring harness. Where should I start looking?
11-03-10, 07:05 PM
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Im pretty sure I got the TID sealed up. Went down and got some 3/4" heater hose to replace the silicon one they give you with it.. Corksport's pipe doesn't seem to fit in the same spot as the factory. And the 19mm ID piece of silicon they give you is too short to seal properly. There's not even room to put clamps on it. What is the point in making a aftermarket "upgrade" part that is shaped the same as factory if its not shaped EXACTLY like oem.
I'm kind of pissed about that, $150 for something that doesn't line up properly. If I spent the extra $40 for a factory rubber TID I would be done with this already. Now I'm stuck with this POS or I have to pay $15 to ship it back and wait...and wait....and wait....
The only alternative is to order a conical filter adapter off ebay and wait for that...
As far as other vacuum leaks are concerned I don't believe I have any. I replaced a couple of vacuum caps while I was at it today. (they cracked in less than 1k miles of driving). I had hooked it up to a UV leak detector machine after the motor went in. The only place it leaked was the TID by the turbo inlet (small tear).
I don't believe my starting issues have anything to do with vacuum leaks. I'm leaning towards electrical or check valves. Maybe a couple lines hooked up wrong?
Does anyone have a picture of where the fuel pump check valve is? And also a picture of the intank filter? I picked up a new filter screen/bag recently, is that suppose to be the intank 'fuel filter'?
I was entertaining the idea of a $25 ebay pump to swap out. Does anyone know of any rotary specialists in the twin cities? I'm at about my limit with this car. Its been a money pit, I cant sell it unless it runs right, I can't figure that out. It's time for outside help or a really really high cliff to send it to its demise....
I'm kind of pissed about that, $150 for something that doesn't line up properly. If I spent the extra $40 for a factory rubber TID I would be done with this already. Now I'm stuck with this POS or I have to pay $15 to ship it back and wait...and wait....and wait....
The only alternative is to order a conical filter adapter off ebay and wait for that...
As far as other vacuum leaks are concerned I don't believe I have any. I replaced a couple of vacuum caps while I was at it today. (they cracked in less than 1k miles of driving). I had hooked it up to a UV leak detector machine after the motor went in. The only place it leaked was the TID by the turbo inlet (small tear).
I don't believe my starting issues have anything to do with vacuum leaks. I'm leaning towards electrical or check valves. Maybe a couple lines hooked up wrong?
Does anyone have a picture of where the fuel pump check valve is? And also a picture of the intank filter? I picked up a new filter screen/bag recently, is that suppose to be the intank 'fuel filter'?
I was entertaining the idea of a $25 ebay pump to swap out. Does anyone know of any rotary specialists in the twin cities? I'm at about my limit with this car. Its been a money pit, I cant sell it unless it runs right, I can't figure that out. It's time for outside help or a really really high cliff to send it to its demise....
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11-03-10, 07:22 PM
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As far as the TID > filter, you can get a 4-bolt > conical adaptor, then pick up an el cheapo at Pep Boys, or similar... Though the CorkSport one looks pretty pimp.
Regarding your grounding issue, I assume it only zaps you when the car's running, not when it's off (AC vs. DC)?
That much voltage kicking around through the chassis probably WOULDN'T be harness. If that were the case, you'd have come harness BBQ goin' on, someplace (and could find it by the burnt plastic smell).
I would look around charging system central and your grounds (don't forget about the little gimpy ones on the UIM).... If I were you, I'd hit Harbor Freight and pick up a crappy little Ohm-meter for 5 bucks and go to town.
With the car running (idle), start by checking the connection of the ground and the chassis (Blk: ground, Red: chasis). That'll FIRST tell you how MUCH of a charge you're blowing (make sure the meter is set on 20vAC, since it's idling and kicking charge from the alternated current.)
Check your grounds, the same way. You will notice that the FARTHER away from the source of the bleed, the lower the voltage will read, to chassis.
The same test CAN be performed while the car's not running; just make sure the meter's set on vDC.
Regarding your grounding issue, I assume it only zaps you when the car's running, not when it's off (AC vs. DC)?
That much voltage kicking around through the chassis probably WOULDN'T be harness. If that were the case, you'd have come harness BBQ goin' on, someplace (and could find it by the burnt plastic smell).
I would look around charging system central and your grounds (don't forget about the little gimpy ones on the UIM).... If I were you, I'd hit Harbor Freight and pick up a crappy little Ohm-meter for 5 bucks and go to town.
With the car running (idle), start by checking the connection of the ground and the chassis (Blk: ground, Red: chasis). That'll FIRST tell you how MUCH of a charge you're blowing (make sure the meter is set on 20vAC, since it's idling and kicking charge from the alternated current.)
Check your grounds, the same way. You will notice that the FARTHER away from the source of the bleed, the lower the voltage will read, to chassis.
The same test CAN be performed while the car's not running; just make sure the meter's set on vDC.
11-04-10, 11:04 AM
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Cold start issue is problably related to your emissions removal. When you say you removed "emissions" what all did you remove I.e. Bac ,acv, rats nest, thermo wax, etc.
As far as rotary shops there are 2 that I know of FNR in burnsville and I think the other is rx7 heaven I haven't been there though.
For the electrical stuff go with the above posters suggestion.
As far as rotary shops there are 2 that I know of FNR in burnsville and I think the other is rx7 heaven I haven't been there though.
For the electrical stuff go with the above posters suggestion.
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