Custom Power Window Switch
10-13-03, 09:12 PM
#1
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Custom Power Window Switch
first off....has anyone done it? i think the stock one is pretty ugly, and looks like it could be made from switches at radio shack.....anyone have any type of wiring diagram or info of what each wire does?
10-13-03, 10:57 PM
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by gotdatfiyah
im pretty sure the "on/off" part could be eliminated and keep them constantly on. i dont have the fsm, scan it for me =]
im pretty sure the "on/off" part could be eliminated and keep them constantly on. i dont have the fsm, scan it for me =]
And the factory service manuals are available online. Please read the FAQ for FC for links on where to find them.
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10-14-03, 01:04 AM
#9
Haven't we ALL heard this
Geez, it really would not be that hard. As far as I know there are no limit switchs. So that motor keeps running until you let off that switch.
Sooooooo, just go buy some switchs. And if you want to lock out the pax window just another switch using the stock wire. Sounds straight foward......even for someone whom can't read
James
Sooooooo, just go buy some switchs. And if you want to lock out the pax window just another switch using the stock wire. Sounds straight foward......even for someone whom can't read
James
10-14-03, 11:57 AM
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The "old school" wiring -
A DPDTCO toggle switch.
(double pole, double throw, center off)
Connect the + & - inputs to the center.
Connect the outputs to one end.
add jumpers that cross each other to the other end.
A DPDTCO toggle switch.
(double pole, double throw, center off)
Connect the + & - inputs to the center.
Connect the outputs to one end.
add jumpers that cross each other to the other end.
10-14-03, 12:14 PM
#12
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OR:
Leave the stock switches there, and rewire it and add relays so the power for the window isn't going through the switch, it would be a 12v signal through the switch instead going to the relay. That way you wouldn't have a buttload of power going through the switch, which means less resistance, less charring on the terminals, and the windows would go down faster.
Oh yeah, and it would all still look stock.
No?
Leave the stock switches there, and rewire it and add relays so the power for the window isn't going through the switch, it would be a 12v signal through the switch instead going to the relay. That way you wouldn't have a buttload of power going through the switch, which means less resistance, less charring on the terminals, and the windows would go down faster.
Oh yeah, and it would all still look stock.
No?
10-14-03, 12:28 PM
#13
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Originally posted by Black13B
OR:
Leave the stock switches there, and rewire it and add relays so the power for the window isn't going through the switch, it would be a 12v signal through the switch instead going to the relay. That way you wouldn't have a buttload of power going through the switch, which means less resistance, less charring on the terminals, and the windows would go down faster.
Oh yeah, and it would all still look stock.
No?
OR:
Leave the stock switches there, and rewire it and add relays so the power for the window isn't going through the switch, it would be a 12v signal through the switch instead going to the relay. That way you wouldn't have a buttload of power going through the switch, which means less resistance, less charring on the terminals, and the windows would go down faster.
Oh yeah, and it would all still look stock.
No?
10-14-03, 01:42 PM
#14
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I like the relay idea also.
It would take 4 on the driver's side & 2 on the passenger side.
Install them in plugs so they're easy to change.
Mazda failed to design any "wipe" into the contact motion, so the stock switches are not self cleaning.
Relays are designed to be self cleaning.
It would take 4 on the driver's side & 2 on the passenger side.
Install them in plugs so they're easy to change.
Mazda failed to design any "wipe" into the contact motion, so the stock switches are not self cleaning.
Relays are designed to be self cleaning.
Last edited by SureShot; 10-14-03 at 01:44 PM.
10-14-03, 02:49 PM
#15
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by SureShot
I like the relay idea also.
It would take 4 on the driver's side & 2 on the passenger side.
Install them in plugs so they're easy to change.
Mazda failed to design any "wipe" into the contact motion, so the stock switches are not self cleaning.
Relays are designed to be self cleaning.
I like the relay idea also.
It would take 4 on the driver's side & 2 on the passenger side.
Install them in plugs so they're easy to change.
Mazda failed to design any "wipe" into the contact motion, so the stock switches are not self cleaning.
Relays are designed to be self cleaning.
Your driver's side passengers window switch, would just feed through the passengers side to the passengers relays.
The wires are already run, you just would be inserting relays between the motor and the door power window switch.
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