curse RWD trannys
12-02-04, 02:35 PM
#1
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curse RWD trannys
ive been trying with the help of two other people all day and we can get it back on to the block (just installed a new clutch) anyone have any points or how they did it?
12-02-04, 02:41 PM
#3
knowledge junkie
You should have searched:
tips - Installing & Removing Transmission - documentation
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/tips-installing-removing-transmission-documentation-352505/
tips - Installing & Removing Transmission - documentation
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/tips-installing-removing-transmission-documentation-352505/
12-02-04, 03:31 PM
#6
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my engine mounts are bad so the engine tilts back probably 15-20 degrees, made the install pretty easy, except we filled the tranny with oil prior to install. Most the fluid leaked out the tailshaft. Live and learn.
Check the engine/tranny bolts. There is one that doesn't have the same tread pitch as all the others. If you don't put it in the right spot, you'll chew engine/tranny mount threads to nill.
Check the engine/tranny bolts. There is one that doesn't have the same tread pitch as all the others. If you don't put it in the right spot, you'll chew engine/tranny mount threads to nill.
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12-02-04, 04:03 PM
#8
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i had to use a copple of jacks and lign it up. tilted the engine back then turned the splines till they lined up eyeballin it the after some work it went in. its a pain but not really really hard
12-02-04, 05:29 PM
#9
if you turn the driveshaft and the main pulley moves... its aligned... since there are 4 bolts of the same pitch, i used the longest one to start pulling them together, then backed it off... i did it in all four holes, and got it inabout 45 minutes
12-02-04, 05:35 PM
#10
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The further back you can tilt the engine, the more room you have to line it up.
I cut a board to wedge in the space from the radiator cross bar to the steering pump.
I cut a board to wedge in the space from the radiator cross bar to the steering pump.
12-02-04, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SureShot
The further back you can tilt the engine, the more room you have to line it up.
I cut a board to wedge in the space from the radiator cross bar to the steering pump.
I cut a board to wedge in the space from the radiator cross bar to the steering pump.
I did the same thing... But anyway.. Search.. The thread listed above walked me through my install.
-Adam
Last edited by ra ra rotory; 12-02-04 at 06:17 PM.
12-02-04, 06:24 PM
#12
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
I put a big friggin pry bar (3.5 ft. long) in the exhaust manifold (stock) and pryed the engine down while putting the trans in. This car kinda sucks in the fact that they didn't design it to have the trans replaced easily, being that you have to do some crazy stuff like this to keep from bottoming out on the driveshaft channel with the shifter box peice.
12-02-04, 11:19 PM
#17
knowledge junkie
Here's how I got the tranny back in. Check the full writeup for any other questions / tips you need answered.
Originally Posted by vaughnc
tips - Installing & Removing Transmission - documentation
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=352505
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=352505
Originally Posted by vaughnc
....You don't have to "tilt" the engine like previously mentioned to make the transmission go on.
- Clean the driveshaft's transmission connector with carb spray & then spray it down with WD40
- Insert the driveshaft into the back of the transmission and push the transmission up & forward using the driveshaft as a handle / lever. You may need to turn the driveshaft slightly as well.
..... The transmission shifter housing lip should finally go into the gear selector hole and sit flush.
- Clean the driveshaft's transmission connector with carb spray & then spray it down with WD40
- Insert the driveshaft into the back of the transmission and push the transmission up & forward using the driveshaft as a handle / lever. You may need to turn the driveshaft slightly as well.
..... The transmission shifter housing lip should finally go into the gear selector hole and sit flush.
12-02-04, 11:50 PM
#18
me and 1 of my friends did this really fast w/o a jack. Have you or your friend lay under the tranny and lift it up then the other guy guide it in and put a couple bolts in. Just make sure your friends has no problem with lifting the tranny
12-03-04, 07:52 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by KingCobraV9
ya tranny=not fun to work on but i wouldnt let any shop touch my car for things like that they might **** it up.
12-03-04, 11:41 AM
#21
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I always have a problem getting the engine to slide back on the last few inches, even with tilting the engine, ect.
I always just end up grabbing a huge pair of adjustable plyers (the ones you use for plumbing) make them open as wide as possible, grab the tab on the top of the tranny with one part and something on the engine with the other part, squeeze untill I can thread a bolt in, then tighten untill it lines up.
I always just end up grabbing a huge pair of adjustable plyers (the ones you use for plumbing) make them open as wide as possible, grab the tab on the top of the tranny with one part and something on the engine with the other part, squeeze untill I can thread a bolt in, then tighten untill it lines up.
12-03-04, 11:54 AM
#22
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I strongly disagree with using the bolts to squeeze the trans and block together.
You may only think that the pilot and input shaft are aligned, but they can be off.
Then when you force the input shaft in, the pilot bearing slips out of place and you just wasted a good amount of time.
The trans should just slide right on with the force your arms can provide.
You may only think that the pilot and input shaft are aligned, but they can be off.
Then when you force the input shaft in, the pilot bearing slips out of place and you just wasted a good amount of time.
The trans should just slide right on with the force your arms can provide.
12-03-04, 01:32 PM
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I laid under the engine, benched it up with the tranny mounts in place but not bolted to the chassis and used those to help line the tranny up, it looks a little tilted if you expect it to be flat, and most people don't take that into account when they are trying to mount it and make it match up right.
Have a friend look at the transmission bell house if you don't believe me, when he tells you its aligned, the tranny will look tilted.
I had a little trouble putting mine in until I figured that out, after that it was line it up, wiggle it until I felt the pilot thread on and then pushed it in, held the tranny with one hand and fed some bolts on the tranny mounts with the other (didnt tighten those until after the bell housing was tight though.
Have a friend look at the transmission bell house if you don't believe me, when he tells you its aligned, the tranny will look tilted.
I had a little trouble putting mine in until I figured that out, after that it was line it up, wiggle it until I felt the pilot thread on and then pushed it in, held the tranny with one hand and fed some bolts on the tranny mounts with the other (didnt tighten those until after the bell housing was tight though.
12-03-04, 01:50 PM
#25
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Its very easy to damage the pilot bearing if you pull the tranny up to the engine with longer bolts. The thing that seems to work best is to tip the engine so you have more room to work with. I've dropped the tranny on mine about 4 times now and I've found that to workt he best when you're laying on your back. I really like having a lift and a tranny jack makes everthing so much easier. Just get someone underneath the car with the tranny and someone on top to pry it back while the person below wiggles the tranny until is close, put a few bolts in take a rest then wiggle some more. Another thing that helps sometimes it to lightly push on the clutch pedal if the splines are close or its binding on the disc this will sometimes correct the problem. Note do not push hard or the full throw of the pedal or you could screw yourself.