ive been trying with the help of two other people all day and we can get it back on to the block (just installed a new clutch) anyone have any points or how they did it?

 

put it on your chest or a jack bnech press or jack up then push forward

 

You should have searched:

tips - Installing & Removing Transmission - documentation
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/tips-installing-removing-transmission-documentation-352505/

 

i had to tilt the engine a little bit towards the back, and all was good after this.

 

just jack it up and slide it in

 

my engine mounts are bad so the engine tilts back probably 15-20 degrees, made the install pretty easy, except we filled the tranny with oil prior to install. Most the fluid leaked out the tailshaft. Live and learn.

Check the engine/tranny bolts. There is one that doesn't have the same tread pitch as all the others. If you don't put it in the right spot, you'll chew engine/tranny mount threads to nill.

 

Or just stick the tranny in gear, and then line it up and have someone turn the front pulley so that the splines align.

 

i had to use a copple of jacks and lign it up. tilted the engine back then turned the splines till they lined up eyeballin it the after some work it went in. its a pain but not really really hard

 

if you turn the driveshaft and the main pulley moves... its aligned... since there are 4 bolts of the same pitch, i used the longest one to start pulling them together, then backed it off... i did it in all four holes, and got it inabout 45 minutes

 

The further back you can tilt the engine, the more room you have to line it up.
I cut a board to wedge in the space from the radiator cross bar to the steering pump.

 

I did the same thing... But anyway.. Search.. The thread listed above walked me through my install.

-Adam

 

I put a big friggin pry bar (3.5 ft. long) in the exhaust manifold (stock) and pryed the engine down while putting the trans in. This car kinda sucks in the fact that they didn't design it to have the trans replaced easily, being that you have to do some crazy stuff like this to keep from bottoming out on the driveshaft channel with the shifter box peice.

 

I had to bore out the holes on the transmission to get it to slide in.

 

Hm, odd that there are so many that are having issues with tranny installation, I've never had a problem, just jack it up and slide/muscle it on.

 

Pilot bearing in all the way? That makes it a pos...

 

im gunna try some of these methods tomorow, day 3 of the install lol.

 

Here's how I got the tranny back in. Check the full writeup for any other questions / tips you need answered.

 

me and 1 of my friends did this really fast w/o a jack. Have you or your friend lay under the tranny and lift it up then the other guy guide it in and put a couple bolts in. Just make sure your friends has no problem with lifting the tranny

 

ya tranny=not fun to work on but i wouldnt let any shop touch my car for things like that they might **** it up.

 

exactley lol 240 just to install it **** that ill do it myself...

 

I always have a problem getting the engine to slide back on the last few inches, even with tilting the engine, ect.
I always just end up grabbing a huge pair of adjustable plyers (the ones you use for plumbing) make them open as wide as possible, grab the tab on the top of the tranny with one part and something on the engine with the other part, squeeze untill I can thread a bolt in, then tighten untill it lines up.

 

I strongly disagree with using the bolts to squeeze the trans and block together.
You may only think that the pilot and input shaft are aligned, but they can be off.
Then when you force the input shaft in, the pilot bearing slips out of place and you just wasted a good amount of time.

The trans should just slide right on with the force your arms can provide.

 

it's not that hard. i do clutch jobs on NAs in about 2.5 hours. me and my friend just bench the trans in and out. just wiggle the trans into the pilot.

 

I laid under the engine, benched it up with the tranny mounts in place but not bolted to the chassis and used those to help line the tranny up, it looks a little tilted if you expect it to be flat, and most people don't take that into account when they are trying to mount it and make it match up right.

Have a friend look at the transmission bell house if you don't believe me, when he tells you its aligned, the tranny will look tilted.

I had a little trouble putting mine in until I figured that out, after that it was line it up, wiggle it until I felt the pilot thread on and then pushed it in, held the tranny with one hand and fed some bolts on the tranny mounts with the other (didnt tighten those until after the bell housing was tight though.

 

Its very easy to damage the pilot bearing if you pull the tranny up to the engine with longer bolts. The thing that seems to work best is to tip the engine so you have more room to work with. I've dropped the tranny on mine about 4 times now and I've found that to workt he best when you're laying on your back. I really like having a lift and a tranny jack makes everthing so much easier. Just get someone underneath the car with the tranny and someone on top to pry it back while the person below wiggles the tranny until is close, put a few bolts in take a rest then wiggle some more. Another thing that helps sometimes it to lightly push on the clutch pedal if the splines are close or its binding on the disc this will sometimes correct the problem. Note do not push hard or the full throw of the pedal or you could screw yourself.