Yo,


They told me Red Loctite...the only caveat was you needed to let them cure overnight because if you put them in the engine too soon the Loctite liquifies and makes them stick open or closed.

I tried to find some info on Green Loctite or even where to get it...didn't find too much.

Any info on Green Loctite and temperature ranges would be spiffy.

I don't want to knock PR, but I think it's somewhat weak to send a product out with ZERO written instructions. I was lucky to get some verbal instruction, but only because I asked...which was because of this thread.

Thanks again Kevin! I take back my Titanic comments. *grin* Do you miss your GTUs?

Kevin
1989 GTUs "Once bitten...always smitten."

 

LMFAO!!!

Ahh, those were the days. I remember when the worst thing an rx-7 enthusiast had to worry about was getting some rusty brake rotors in the mail. Nowadays you have these damned sleeve inserts going around, you have to worry about them falling into your motor and stuff...

I dont miss *it*, but I miss the way it drove. But I take a look at that 'vert and go for a hellraising tour late at night on a backroad with the top down and I forget about that GTUs altogether. BTW, the 'vert now sports a GTUs rear anyway

 

I think this is relevant to the topic.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/engine_failure.htm

 

I have seen Green Loctite at the local Pep Boys and Napa auto parts. Let me know if you need some, I'll get it for you and send it over.

*edit
BTW:

The technical specs of Green are:

Green (270 series) is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined with the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevent loosening from shock and vibration. Typical applications include the locking and sealing of large bolts and studs (M25 and larger).
Operating temp: -54C to 150C
Disassembly melt point: 232F
Cure min: 24 hours most materials
Solvent resistance (at 22C) in percentage @5000 hrs exposure:
Motor oil: 75%
Leaded Petrol: 100
Brake fluid: 100%
water gycol: 85%
Acetone: 95%
Ethanol: 95%

Note: use with an inactive metal will require a primer (Primer M) to achive max strength
Inactive metals:
Stainless Steel
Nickel
Cadmium
Pure Aluminum
Bright Platings
Anodized surfaces.

100% strength is available without a primer on active metals.
Active metals:
Steel
Copper
Brass
Mangaese
Bronze
Titainum
Aluminum alloy.

 

Good read.

 

Thanks for the information... thats friggin scary

 

BUMP...

Seems lightning has struck twice...

"...only ran for about 5 minutes before the motor blew."

"The only thing that is in the sig that you won't get from the car is the pineapple sleeves, cause they malfunctioned and shot into the ******* motor."

THe rest of the story:

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=18439

 

I guess we know now why Mazda didn't install them

 

christ!

I am never getting htem now. I was starting to warm up to them again but crap. I hope Pineapple does something about this.

 

hahahah funniest post ive ever seen

 

Yo,


Well, looks like my inserts will be TIG welded in, as well as the actuator rod at the end. We don't play at Team GTUs!! *grin*

Thanks Dana!

Kevin
1989 GTUs "That should keep them in place."

 

I hate it when isolated events scare you...now I'm scared to put them into my car and the other 2 I'm working on . But damn I want them sooo bad...

 

Concept is great, application sucks! I still say the solution is milling 1 piece units.

 

How about countersunk machine screws applied from the end of the sleeves? There would be no way for them to back out unless they pushed the insert, sleeve, and rod actuator the length of the screw. There would be no fastening pin to work loose and get stuck or ingested in / through the port opening.

 

I just installed these and PR said on the phone, use loctite. I used the "Grey" loctite used for bonding metal. It works great. I also removed the pins from the end of my sleeves completely and locked them open. If you put these inserts into your sleeves WITHOUT any loctite... well maybe it's your fault?

 

I went back and re-read most of the post and decided to retact my remark about "fault".... But, I still noticed that the inserts were very loose when I installed them...

If it helps any... My sleeves have the pins removed and are loctited open. (this is not a street car). I'll post any updates on how the sleeves faired.

-Mike

 

I think some of you are still missing the point.

The point isnt that it is a bad concept.
The point isnt that it is a bad product.
The point isnt that it is a bad fit.
The point isnt that some of us have ideas that could avoid failure.
The point isnt which ideas are better.

THE POINT IS THAT OTHER THAN PEOPLE WHO HAVE SPECIFICALLY ASKED PR, NO INSTRUCTIONS ARE MAKING THEIR WAY OUT WITH THESE ITEMS.

I guarantee you I can go to the website right now and find no more mention of loctite or any other securing mechanism than I did 3 months ago.

I bet I can call PR tomorrow and order a set of inserts, and if I dont ask (should I have to ask??), they wont say anything about "you do know that you have to...with these sleeves or you may have fitment problems...".

I bet when they arrive at my place I will open a box and find some cushioning and 2 aluminum inserts only with not a single letter of instruction.

Think of it as some major company releasing some killer piece of computer hardware at a great price, and not including the software necessary for it. People are going to be saying and though a few of them may figure out a way to use the hardware, and a few others get lucky enough that it works for them, many or most people wouldnt be able to make it work right, and have all sorts of problems. IS that the fault of the user, or the supplier?

 

Very well said. I've stayed out of this convo mainly because I never got around to installing mine, and this was the reason why. Kevin makes a perfect point, the idea of bringing it up and mentioning it wasn't to bash on PR, it was to inform everyone that hey, be careful, check them over, and a wake-up call to PR that they should supply some instructions with them instead of nothing. Anyway, just my doller twenty five

 

Yo,


Yep, what they said. I think it's cool that PR is making these inserts that actually do what they say, make more HP for a good price.

But, they need to supply some kind of instructions so they don't rattle down to the actuator rod and do this:



Then have the rod get ingested into the motor:



My buddy Dana just got the inserts I sent him and left me a message on my answering machine with the sounds of the inserts rattling around in the sleeves.

*Klickitty* *Klakitty*

He going to his machinist and we're going to TIG weld the inserts and rod pins into place. Overkill probably, but cheap insurance against motor death.

Kevin
1989 GTUs "It's all about the overkill."

 

I ended up brazing mine in place.

 

I was told *WITHOUT ASKING* that i need to rough up the surface and apply loctite in order to hold them in place.

I do agree that they should include information on their website, as well as in the packageing

-Mike

 

Well, that's good to hear, but you seem to be in the minority given what most posters have said.

 

just lost an engine due to this, i have not been aware of this, i wonder what can be doen about this.

 

Well, that sucks. I was hoping to avoid this problem by posting the info here.
Maybe now these people will take it seriously.

 

I still think they are a great idea.... With a little modification can be used safely.

Some suggestions (i know PR should be giving these directions *especially since corksport is selling them now as well*)

--Remove the dowels and loctite the sleeves in/open.
--Weld the inserts into the sleeves (RarestRx idea)
--I used grey metal bonding loctite and I've been going for about 2-3k miles without issues I also scratched up the surface

Perhaps we can forward these to PR for more testing / documentation that should be shipped with the sleeves.