Crionics

Basically, I have tried adjusting my TPS by two methods, resistance and Two-Light. Here is what happened last time so I could compare the two methods.

1) I adjust using resistance setting it to 1k-Ohm.

2) Double check using two-light method, and neither light was on, so I adjust it until half-way between no lights and 2.

3) Check resistance - about 900 Ohms.

4) Drive the car around the block, double check using light method and it's fine.

Now for whatever reason, about a day or two after I do this, my car gets to the point where it won't hold an idle while hot. And eventually, it goes away, but the resistance of the TPS is set lower, and once I got it back from Mazda and it was set to somthing like 630 Ohms.

Mainly, I am just curious to see what is with all the differences. I don't need any links to FC3S or Aaron Cakes site or anything. My concerns really go way beyond anything I can find searching the forums or the list of 10 or so websites I have in my favorites that cover this. I think I am gonna go out right now and change the resistance until the idle holds to see if this is in fact the problem, but as I said, it always happens right after TPS adjustment using either method.

HAILERS

The TPS does not set the idle. The TPS should be set prior to setting the idle. The idle is set by ....the Fuel section in the free, online, factory service manual.

Crionics

For what it's worth, it had nothing to do with the setting of the idle, which is why I asked the forums. I am well aware of what's in the FSM since I have damn near read it cover to cover.

FYI, the problem seemed to be related to the BAC valve. I swapped the valve, and now it idles.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

For what its worth, I have better luck with the light method. Dont know why.

Jarrett