Cured my dropping Idle(while braking) problem !!!
#1
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Cured my dropping Idle(while braking) problem !!!
I've been fighting this problem for quit some time. I had my
car at three different local shops that couldn't cure the
problem. So I decided to start trouble shooting the problem
myself. It's hard to believe that three different Mechanics
did such a poor job on trouble shooting this problem.
1st thing I did was replace the O2 sensor that had 125,000
miles on it, origianal that is. This stop a lot of fluctuating
in the Idle, but still had the dropping when braking problem.
2nd, I found that my TPS would not set according to FSM
so I relaced it with new Mazda TPS. This gave me highly
improved Acceleration & Deacceleration, but again I still
had the dropping Idle problem.
3rd, I checked the BAC and it checked out according to the FSM, including AWS. After doing numerous other checks I started reading old threads about Idle problems. Alot of them referd to the BAC but I had checked the BAC and all was good according to the FSM.
So I searched for BAC threads and found one on "cleaning"
the BAC.
4th, "The Cure"!! I removed the BAC again and flushed
it good with TB inlet cleaner. I also sprayed some cleaner
into the port that the BAC mounts to. While I had the intake
off I sprayed the TB out real well. This seemed to have flooded
the car, wouldn't start right away. So I'd let it set about 10 min and try again. Finally got it to start and no more
dropping Idle. Unbelievable, sat there for 10 min pushing
on the brake and can't believe it has no effect at all on the idle.
I hope this helps other's that have the same problem. During
the heat of the summer I would stall while tring to stop and
I was getting very frustrated. Our local Mazda Dealer her
in Savannah GA, Fairway Lincoln, is afraid to work on anything below 3rd Gen. The service Manager told me they
don't have any specs on 1st and 2nd Gen. I down loaded
the FSM right off the internet. I guess that's just the best excuse they could make up.
car at three different local shops that couldn't cure the
problem. So I decided to start trouble shooting the problem
myself. It's hard to believe that three different Mechanics
did such a poor job on trouble shooting this problem.
1st thing I did was replace the O2 sensor that had 125,000
miles on it, origianal that is. This stop a lot of fluctuating
in the Idle, but still had the dropping when braking problem.
2nd, I found that my TPS would not set according to FSM
so I relaced it with new Mazda TPS. This gave me highly
improved Acceleration & Deacceleration, but again I still
had the dropping Idle problem.
3rd, I checked the BAC and it checked out according to the FSM, including AWS. After doing numerous other checks I started reading old threads about Idle problems. Alot of them referd to the BAC but I had checked the BAC and all was good according to the FSM.
So I searched for BAC threads and found one on "cleaning"
the BAC.
4th, "The Cure"!! I removed the BAC again and flushed
it good with TB inlet cleaner. I also sprayed some cleaner
into the port that the BAC mounts to. While I had the intake
off I sprayed the TB out real well. This seemed to have flooded
the car, wouldn't start right away. So I'd let it set about 10 min and try again. Finally got it to start and no more
dropping Idle. Unbelievable, sat there for 10 min pushing
on the brake and can't believe it has no effect at all on the idle.
I hope this helps other's that have the same problem. During
the heat of the summer I would stall while tring to stop and
I was getting very frustrated. Our local Mazda Dealer her
in Savannah GA, Fairway Lincoln, is afraid to work on anything below 3rd Gen. The service Manager told me they
don't have any specs on 1st and 2nd Gen. I down loaded
the FSM right off the internet. I guess that's just the best excuse they could make up.
#3
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I was wondering if I should clean my BAC as well. I think I will now.
Did you use a liquid gasket when you put the BAC back on, or did you get a new gasket.
Mazda dealer needs to go back to school!
Did you use a liquid gasket when you put the BAC back on, or did you get a new gasket.
Our local Mazda Dealer her
in Savannah GA, Fairway Lincoln, is afraid to work on anything below 3rd Gen. The service Manager told me they
don't have any specs on 1st and 2nd Gen.
in Savannah GA, Fairway Lincoln, is afraid to work on anything below 3rd Gen. The service Manager told me they
don't have any specs on 1st and 2nd Gen.
#4
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
good job on finding the solution to your problem. Thanks for posting the steps you took to trouble shoot it as well. Not too many people follow up on their threads after fixing a problem. Congrats!
#5
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Yo,
I just wanted to thank you for spelling "Braking" correctly. 9 out of 10 times it would be spelled, "Breaking."
Thank you!
*grin*
Another thing that causes idle drop while braking is the huge draw that the rear brake lights make. You can replace them with LED ones and it might cure it.
Kevin
1989 GTUs "Brake > Break."
I just wanted to thank you for spelling "Braking" correctly. 9 out of 10 times it would be spelled, "Breaking."
Thank you!
*grin*
Another thing that causes idle drop while braking is the huge draw that the rear brake lights make. You can replace them with LED ones and it might cure it.
Kevin
1989 GTUs "Brake > Break."
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#8
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Can you give more details on where the certain parts are located and how you adjusted/cleaned them.
Download the FSM from www.fc3s.org and get familiar
with the layout. It has a lot of good diagrams with part
locations.
I found it easier to remove the BAC if you remove the
Airintake from the TB first.
Download the FSM from www.fc3s.org and get familiar
with the layout. It has a lot of good diagrams with part
locations.
I found it easier to remove the BAC if you remove the
Airintake from the TB first.
#9
If you could detail it would be great. I have the linked procedure at:
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/bac.htm
..but someone who's done it recently may have some more detail to add, above link is on a turbo.
What did you do with the coolant lines, do you remember what size bolts? Any other tips or gotchas?
Thanks in advance.
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/bac.htm
..but someone who's done it recently may have some more detail to add, above link is on a turbo.
What did you do with the coolant lines, do you remember what size bolts? Any other tips or gotchas?
Thanks in advance.
#10
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by pmr2000
[B]If you could detail it would be great. I have the linked procedure at:
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/bac.htm
Yes, this is the link I read. My coolant lines were fine and
my gasket stayed in one piece and looked in good condition, so I reused it for time being.
The only thing it leaves out is adjusting your Idle. You
will need to ground the green 1 pin test connector to
bypass the ECU while adjusting your Idle. If you don't the
ECU will try to re-adjust as you adjusting.
[B]If you could detail it would be great. I have the linked procedure at:
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/bac.htm
Yes, this is the link I read. My coolant lines were fine and
my gasket stayed in one piece and looked in good condition, so I reused it for time being.
The only thing it leaves out is adjusting your Idle. You
will need to ground the green 1 pin test connector to
bypass the ECU while adjusting your Idle. If you don't the
ECU will try to re-adjust as you adjusting.
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