Cruise control after Auto-to-Manual Swap?!?!
08-01-05, 09:07 AM
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Cruise control after Auto-to-Manual Swap?!?!
I have recently completed a successful auto-to-manual swap in my 1991 NA GXL. But after I did the swap, my cruise contol no longer works. I was wondering if anyone out there was able to get their cruise contol working after a tranny swap on an S5?? I am assuming there is some tricky re-wiring that needs done, but I am not sure what. Any help, advice or guidelines would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
08-01-05, 09:18 AM
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Did you disconnect your 4At Control Unit???
Looking at the fsm it seems there is a jumper wire that needs to be removed from around the clutch switch. The color isn't given in the picture.
Make sure the 4AT is disconnected first. I can't quite figure out that jumper wire around the clutch sw for an automatic. I'd snip it if I knew the color and I bet the cruise would work.
See the fsm.
Looking at the fsm it seems there is a jumper wire that needs to be removed from around the clutch switch. The color isn't given in the picture.
Make sure the 4AT is disconnected first. I can't quite figure out that jumper wire around the clutch sw for an automatic. I'd snip it if I knew the color and I bet the cruise would work.
See the fsm.
08-01-05, 11:04 AM
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On the series four the automatic transmission computer is called the 4AT UNIT. It interfaces with the Cruise Control Unit.
Tell you what, with the automatic trans computer disconnected, also disconnect the brake and clutch switches. Go for a ride on a unpopulated road and engage the cruise control with a eye to turning it off in an emergency using the button on the control switch.
IF the cruise control now works, try reconnecting just the brake switch and going for a ride to see if it engages again. If it does, use the brake switch to disengage it. Write back the results. I'll post a diagram of a SERIES FOUR cruise control unit and the wire I referred to in the first post.
Tell you what, with the automatic trans computer disconnected, also disconnect the brake and clutch switches. Go for a ride on a unpopulated road and engage the cruise control with a eye to turning it off in an emergency using the button on the control switch.
IF the cruise control now works, try reconnecting just the brake switch and going for a ride to see if it engages again. If it does, use the brake switch to disengage it. Write back the results. I'll post a diagram of a SERIES FOUR cruise control unit and the wire I referred to in the first post.
08-01-05, 11:13 AM
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But, you see....I have a series 5. Which means I have a lot more electronics than the s4. The auto-transmission computer in a S5 is known as the E-CAT. Is this the same as the 4AT UNIT?
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08-01-05, 11:23 AM
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Where it says SHORT FOR AT.....I think that must have just been a jumper wire in the clutch switch plug seeing as how a auto does not have a clutch. The plug was there without the switch, so they put a jumper wire in the plug on a auto. Sooooo, if you installed a manual with clutch switch/pedal you must have removed that jumper wire in order to connect the clutch switch up. That's what I figure.
If the jumper is there it should be disabling the cruise function. Much like stepping on the clutch pedal on a manual car should. Remove jumper wire is my solution.
If the jumper is there it should be disabling the cruise function. Much like stepping on the clutch pedal on a manual car should. Remove jumper wire is my solution.
08-01-05, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Albert257
But that is for a s4, I have and s5!?!?!?!
If I had a series five schematic I would post the picture. I don't.
Someone with this conversion can feel free to pipe in just any time you want. We're waiting on you.
08-01-05, 01:22 PM
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http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...cal_System.pdf
this website is the fsm for the s5
page number 70 has the schematic
this website is the fsm for the s5
page number 70 has the schematic
08-01-05, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Get a series five schematic. I very much doubt that Mazda changed they're way of doing cruise control. I agree the wire colors will be different but the principal the same. Prove me wrong. I've been wrong before. I do agree you can't work off that schematic. I was just trying to give you a possible clue.
If I had a series five schematic I would post the picture. I don't.
Someone with this conversion can feel free to pipe in just any time you want. We're waiting on you.
If I had a series five schematic I would post the picture. I don't.
Someone with this conversion can feel free to pipe in just any time you want. We're waiting on you.
08-01-05, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
I believe what happened was they used the 5SP wiring for the main dash harness, which had the brake/clutch switch wires already in it, and since the AT didn't have it, I think they jumpered it together, so the cruise thought the clutch was always up, thus always engaged, except for brake interrupt.
08-01-05, 07:07 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=124508
SonicRat, I don't understand the jumper wire on the series four. Inside the Cruise Unit you have a OR gate. It has three possible inputs. Clutch, brake pedal and a circuit from the brake circuit. IF you depress the clutch pedal or the brake pedal you send12v to the OR gate. Any three of those will turn the Cruise off.
IF a jumper is there, as shown in the picture, I would think the cruise would never engage.
What do you'all think about them apples?https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=124508
There also seems to be an inverter going to that OR gate from the STARTER circuit and 4AT circuit.
SonicRat, I don't understand the jumper wire on the series four. Inside the Cruise Unit you have a OR gate. It has three possible inputs. Clutch, brake pedal and a circuit from the brake circuit. IF you depress the clutch pedal or the brake pedal you send12v to the OR gate. Any three of those will turn the Cruise off.
IF a jumper is there, as shown in the picture, I would think the cruise would never engage.
What do you'all think about them apples?https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=124508
There also seems to be an inverter going to that OR gate from the STARTER circuit and 4AT circuit.
Last edited by HAILERS; 08-01-05 at 07:11 PM.
08-02-05, 07:25 AM
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What you said makes complete sense. I am a mechanical engineer, and I hate electronics.
However, it seems as though there would still be more tricky wiring needed to get the cruise to work properly, and I can't figure it out!!!
However, it seems as though there would still be more tricky wiring needed to get the cruise to work properly, and I can't figure it out!!!
08-02-05, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Albert257
What you said makes complete sense. I am a mechanical engineer, and I hate electronics.
However, it seems as though there would still be more tricky wiring needed to get the cruise to work properly, and I can't figure it out!!!
However, it seems as though there would still be more tricky wiring needed to get the cruise to work properly, and I can't figure it out!!!
And also try what I suggested earlier....removing the plug from the clutch switch (lower clutch pedal switch)?
If it were my car I'd get a meter out and pull the plug off the cruise unit and take a look at Pins M, H and J with the key to ON. There shouldn't be any voltage there at all unless the pedals are depressed.
Pin G comes from the EC-AT and I'd just depin that little dude.
We assume you have a good fuse and the light on the cruise switch has been lighting up.
The combination meter didn't get changed when you did your auto/manual swap, did it?
Last edited by HAILERS; 08-02-05 at 07:36 AM.
08-02-05, 07:49 AM
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I have disconnected the E-CAT
I looks like the cruise control unit needs and input from the A/T though, so I might just hard wire 12 volts for that input
Also, on my dash, the P N R D 2 L lights, the D light lights up in 1-4th gear, but in 5th gear doesn't light up. I figure this could be a problem seeing as how the cruise control unit requires the car to be in drive
I looks like the cruise control unit needs and input from the A/T though, so I might just hard wire 12 volts for that input
Also, on my dash, the P N R D 2 L lights, the D light lights up in 1-4th gear, but in 5th gear doesn't light up. I figure this could be a problem seeing as how the cruise control unit requires the car to be in drive
08-02-05, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Albert257
I have disconnected the E-CAT
I looks like the cruise control unit needs and input from the A/T though, so I might just hard wire 12 volts for that input
Also, on my dash, the P N R D 2 L lights, the D light lights up in 1-4th gear, but in 5th gear doesn't light up. I figure this could be a problem seeing as how the cruise control unit requires the car to be in drive
I looks like the cruise control unit needs and input from the A/T though, so I might just hard wire 12 volts for that input
Also, on my dash, the P N R D 2 L lights, the D light lights up in 1-4th gear, but in 5th gear doesn't light up. I figure this could be a problem seeing as how the cruise control unit requires the car to be in drive
Memory also tells me I had a cruise problem. It would not engage. The brake switch or the clutch switch failed. It failed not internally but it failed mechanically. If memory serves it had a plunger and that plunger was extended all the time even when the given pedal was all the way up. I forget the specifics, but it was the plunger always being extended putting 12v on the cruise control and causing the disengage of the cruise. I still recommend pulling the plugs on the clutch and brake pedal and going for a drive. Use some caution.
