I'm working in my dash right now, on Aaron Cake's running light project, and have suddenly begun to question whether my cruise control is stock, or not.

Are the cruise control controls on the column? Or, are they on the right side of the wheel, on th dash where there's a little bezel cover type thing?

 

i'm sure it is a factory piece, most aftermarket CC stick out like a sore thumb, especially in the space limited cluster we have.

 

You happen to know where I can find some pics? This thing does stick out like a sore thumb.

Pics:

 

AFTERMARKET!!!

The stock cruise control is mounted opposite the blinker switch, and looks like a mirror image of it.

 

Ah crap!

 

Yep, James is right!

 

I thought it was, I hoped it wasn't. It's not even wired properly, there is no coast, only accelerate and resume.

 

Makes you wonder since every FC is pre-wired for factory or dealer installed cruise (even the base models).

 

I know, it's... wierd. As long as it hold my gas pedal down, I'm okay, I guess. That whole steering column is wierd, all broken and hanging, almost like it's not the right size.

 

the fc's are prewired for crusie? how hard would it be to isntall if I bought the components off ebay?

 

Yup, part of the harness is just sitting behind the dash in a little dumbie plug. Then there's a plug by the ECU, and then inside the engine compartment is the last part. You just need hardware, try a local wrecker yard, first.

I've also noticed I've got the wires run for what looks like the AAS, in the middle console. Are these cars ready for anything?

 

it seems like it. I have so many plugs everywhere with nothing in them. seems like they made all the models the same then bolted on extra parts at the very end

 

Hmm... good idea.

 

Don't forget the double plug brake switch! I was swapping over my cruise control from my dead AT to my Sport. I went for a drive to check it out, and the cruise tried to counteract the brakes!

Icemark: Thanks for the affermation!

 

Bringing this back from the dead with a weird question:

I'm adding cruise control to a S4 manual transmission converted car and it isn't working. I have the auto harness jumpered so the car is always in the "PARK/NEUTRAL" position for starting purposes.

The cruise stalk lights up and I can get the "MAIN" light to come on, but nothing else will happen. Yes, I do have all 3 major components

 

Pull the plug off the Cruise Control Unit.

Key to ON

With a meter probe the Yellow wire in the plug and the White/Green (white wire with green stripe). IF there is 12vdc on either of these wires, the cruise won't engage.

You get 12vdc on these wires when the clutch pedal is down or the brake pedal is down.

Also probe the Blue wire (L) and see if it has 12vdc on it. Actually that wire puzzles me a bit because it comes from the start circuit and would have 12v on it when you hold the key to Start and the interlock switch on the clutch pedal is pushed in or jumpered, but would not have 12v any other time (not in Start). I think I need to figure out that one. Curious what you see on it.

Anyway, if you have 12vdc on the Yellow wire or the BG wire, then that's why it won't engage.

JPG attached

 

Taken from: http://www.atlantarx7.com/secondgenfaqs.html

To install cruise where there is none, you really only need three things.

1. instrument panel switch
actuator motor
control unit
The pieces I speak of are Mazda originals, taken from a junkyard, not new parts or some aftermarket contraption. l of the wiring for these parts exists on the car already. It is a simple "plug and play" procedure to hook everything up.

The actuator is located on top of the cold-start-assist reservoir. When you get all the parts from the junkyard, be sure to get the bracket that mounts the actuator to the firewall (non-cruise equipped cars do not have the bracket). I tapped a capped-off vacuum port above the exhaust manifold as a source for the actuator (after all the scrounging, I have come to believe that turbo cars use an all-electric actuator). Manifold vacuum is what pulls on the throttle cable to manipulate the throttle. The logic unit directs the actuator in this operation. Four wires attach to the actuator, in a plug which is already there and waiting for installation.

The control unit is attached to the kick panel next to the "cpu." (close to the "dead" pedal), two nuts are needed to hold it in place on the studs which are already there. A thirteen-wire connector is plugged in to the control unit. One of these wires goes to a speed sensor on the back of the speedometer, but it is already hooked up at that end.

The switch goes in the pod surrounding the gauges, next to the wiper switch (where the "blank" spot is). Contrary to what I have heard others say on the net, you DO NOT have to remove the steering wheel to get this piece off. Again, the wires are there and waiting.

I took switches for the brake and clutch pedals, although I discovered after installation that my brake switch is already hooked up. I haven't looked into the clutch switch yet (and doubt if I will), no one that drives my car is crazy enough to push in the clutch with the cruise on. :-)

I learned more about the way the control unit operates the actuator; anyone interested can drop me a line. All the parts cost me a total of $26.00 (!) with the exception of a new throttle cable I had to buy from Mazda ($31.00) because the people that pulled the motor from the RX-7 in the junkyard cut the cable.

 

Since the vacuum characteristics of NA and turbo motors are different, will cruise control from an NA work on a turbo? I've read that it wont, but dont understand why not, since you probably arent going to be boosting while cruise is on anyway. are the wires/connectors the same from NA to turbo?

 

ah, I see... those two go into a logic circuit in the cruise computer. I will test those wires today. Thanks!

 

And forget about the L or Blue wire. Just for kicks I depinned it and the cruise works just fine. With a meter there does not seem to be any signal on that wire, at least on my car.

You need to determine if the cruise control unit is a series four (five won't even plug up so it probably is).

You need to make sure the cruise switch itself is series four or five. That does make a difference. A five switch on a series four can only be made to work by rearranging wires on the cruise switch plug.

A series four switches face is straight up and down. A series five switches face is canted.

And I put a turbo in my non turbo car and used the cruise for the non turbo (vacuum operated) for over a year with no side effects at all. In other words it works fine.

Attached is a jpg of a SERIES FIVE switch. Pay NO attention to the arrows on this jpg. Those were for another subject and I don't feel like scanning that switch again.

What you want to notice, is area where the light comes on and shows MAIN (I think). On a series four that display is straight up and down. On this series five in the picture, the display is slightly canted. I think you can see that in the jpg. IF it is canted then it won't work in a series four car because the switching internal to it is different. It can only be made to work on a series four by rearraging the wires in the plug that attaches to the switch.

Yeah, those two wires go to the logic or a OR gate in the unit. IF it sees 12vdc from one OR the other of those wires, then it kicks the cruise off. Light stays on but it won't engage cruise.

I pulled that Blue wire on my non turbo to turbo car. I did not look at my stock turbo cars cruise at all. Might some day. Not today. Too cold tomorrow.

 

Sorry if this is a little off topic but I don't think it deserves its own thread. In the picture there is that center button on the light dial and it looks like the windaheild fluid pump buttom on the wiper controls. Mine is missing and am curious as to what it is for???

 

I think you are talking about the center switch on the headlight controls to the left side of the instrument cluster. It makes the headlights pop up without turning them on so you can change the bulbs.

 

The White/Green wire does not have 12V on it under any conditions (I guess because I have no clutch interlock).

The Yellow wire gets 12V when I press on the brakes and is dead otherwise.

I don't even have that blue wire. I have a Black/Green instead that has some continuity to ground (not a direct connection though).

All components are S4.

I am downloading the wiring diagrams now, but where I'm at right now we only have dial-up!!! Once I get it (in about 1 hour) I'm going to try and disconnect any inputs specific to the auto trans equipped harness.

 

I'm curious as to how that switch, in the pic HAILERS posted, got burned like that.

 

I just got it working...

I de-pinned the smaller guage "Brown" wire and larger guage "Black and Grey" wire.

The reason I did this is because they are labeled A/T cars only in the diagram. Apparently, a side effect from the 5 speed manual conversion wiring I did.

As I said, I have the car "tricked" into thinking that the auto trans is in park/neutral so I can start the car without a clutch interlock switch. The cruise control computer doesn't like this.

Don't this means that I won't be carving out the twisties in my franken-7. hehe