cross drilled rotors
12-14-05, 12:34 AM
#2
Needs more Displacement.
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www.rx7store.net has a whole set of brembo for like 350 or something.
12-14-05, 04:19 AM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Karack
stay away from ebay drilled rotors.
drilled rotors must be heat tempered after drilled, most ebay sets do not temper the rotors after drilling which can cause cracking and in some extreme cases, the rotor shattering which is bad mmmkay!
drilled rotors must be heat tempered after drilled, most ebay sets do not temper the rotors after drilling which can cause cracking and in some extreme cases, the rotor shattering which is bad mmmkay!
i was told that is what happens to all drilled rotors so that why im am going with powerslot slotted rotors
12-14-05, 08:27 AM
#6
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to be compleatly honest with all of u i have been to seminars with brembo and bear and the only thing that truly improves breaking are bigger rotors .. the slots and cross drillings only bennafit in a race application so in agreeance with emac i say get good pads and a decent blank rotor .... well sauve u tones of money
12-14-05, 10:08 AM
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if you get a bigger rotor make sure you get a new proportioning valve to fit the setup too. Being FC guys i highly doubt people will be paying for big brake kits.
But then again, even big brake kits aren't necessary in 99% of applications.
But then again, even big brake kits aren't necessary in 99% of applications.
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12-14-05, 10:11 AM
#8
Originally Posted by emac
can you lock up your brakes? Your braking system is more than adequate. Just get quality pads and a nice set of blank rotors unless you want the "bling"
This is false, try locking up the same brake system after a few laps at Road America.
The truth in it is that a good set of pads is best money spent to improve a stock system.
But just because you can lock your brakes up in front of your driveway dosn't mean its a good system.
Last edited by RockLobster; 12-14-05 at 10:25 AM.
12-14-05, 10:14 AM
#9
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If its a street car and you want to waste money on looks to impress a certain crowd, go ahead. Just dont ever actually be hard on your brakes or youll crack the rotors.
12-14-05, 10:18 AM
#10
Originally Posted by 1300ccTuner
2 questions
where can i get some cross drilled rotors?
should i trust ebay rotors?
thanx
where can i get some cross drilled rotors?
should i trust ebay rotors?
thanx
I purchased one set of drilled slotted rotors off ebay a couple years ago. One was warped out of the box, i cracked 2 of the other three in less than 5 laps on the track.
When i am at the track i never see drilled rotors and those that do try to run them just end up cracking them (or shattering them).
Best rotor mod you can have done is cryogenic treatment.
I run slotted cryos, but it is debatable if slots truly help, depends on the pad you are using.
You want a good trouble free mostly street braking system?
-Cryo Rotors (www.frozenrotors.com)
-Good set of pads (I personally like porterfield carbon kevlar for street, hawk blues for track)
Track junkies all argue about pads and slots/noslots, some guys swear by just good old brembo blanks.
All seem to agree that drilled are to be avoided at all costs.
Last edited by RockLobster; 12-14-05 at 10:20 AM.
12-14-05, 10:20 AM
#11
DO NOT get drilled rotors. The main advantage (other than looks) is better cooling and gas dispersion, which you can also get with slotted rotors. They are much easier to crack as the holes lower the structural integrity of the rotors. I have personally witnessed a 2 month old Ferrari 360 Modena crack its rotors at TWS in College Station (I was in the car when he did it) so even the top of the line ones do it. If you really want the x-drilled look, power slot has rotors that have dimples that look like x-drilled rotors.
Edit - you can also get cryo treated slotted rotors from power slot now.
Edit - you can also get cryo treated slotted rotors from power slot now.
12-14-05, 12:02 PM
#12
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Has anyone ever studied the real effective difference in surface area for heat radiation with slots or holes before?
With slots, you gain a little surface area but because the slot is basically a concave gouge, a lot of that surface area is just facing the rest of the gouge. But well, I dont know for sure. I do know that it would help (when spinning) to allow any outgassing to float out of the rotor, and it probably doesnt exactly hurt in the rain.
With holes, though, all the increase in surface area is on the inside of the rotor, and you get stress risers from the holes themselves. The only way it could help I can conceive of is if you have vented rotors and there are vanes on the inside of the rotor moving air, and it either sucks or blows air through those said holes.
Regardless, ducting and simply having properly sized rotors would do more good IMO than drilling or slotting. Not that I've ever seen an indication slots or dimples are a bad thing, of course, and Ive seen anecdotal evidence its useful.
With slots, you gain a little surface area but because the slot is basically a concave gouge, a lot of that surface area is just facing the rest of the gouge. But well, I dont know for sure. I do know that it would help (when spinning) to allow any outgassing to float out of the rotor, and it probably doesnt exactly hurt in the rain.
With holes, though, all the increase in surface area is on the inside of the rotor, and you get stress risers from the holes themselves. The only way it could help I can conceive of is if you have vented rotors and there are vanes on the inside of the rotor moving air, and it either sucks or blows air through those said holes.
Regardless, ducting and simply having properly sized rotors would do more good IMO than drilling or slotting. Not that I've ever seen an indication slots or dimples are a bad thing, of course, and Ive seen anecdotal evidence its useful.
12-14-05, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RockLobster
This is false, try locking up the same brake system after a few laps at Road America.
The truth in it is that a good set of pads is best money spent to improve a stock system.
But just because you can lock your brakes up in front of your driveway dosn't mean its a good system.
The truth in it is that a good set of pads is best money spent to improve a stock system.
But just because you can lock your brakes up in front of your driveway dosn't mean its a good system.
12-14-05, 02:18 PM
#16
MattB
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i havent had any problem with my slotted crossdrilled rotors...but i have only done street driving so i havent really heated them up as much as i will at the track in the spring
12-14-05, 05:34 PM
#21
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
Has anyone ever studied the real effective difference in surface area for heat radiation with slots or holes before?
With slots, you gain a little surface area but because the slot is basically a concave gouge, a lot of that surface area is just facing the rest of the gouge. But well, I dont know for sure. I do know that it would help (when spinning) to allow any outgassing to float out of the rotor, and it probably doesnt exactly hurt in the rain.
With holes, though, all the increase in surface area is on the inside of the rotor, and you get stress risers from the holes themselves. The only way it could help I can conceive of is if you have vented rotors and there are vanes on the inside of the rotor moving air, and it either sucks or blows air through those said holes.
Regardless, ducting and simply having properly sized rotors would do more good IMO than drilling or slotting. Not that I've ever seen an indication slots or dimples are a bad thing, of course, and Ive seen anecdotal evidence its useful.
With slots, you gain a little surface area but because the slot is basically a concave gouge, a lot of that surface area is just facing the rest of the gouge. But well, I dont know for sure. I do know that it would help (when spinning) to allow any outgassing to float out of the rotor, and it probably doesnt exactly hurt in the rain.
With holes, though, all the increase in surface area is on the inside of the rotor, and you get stress risers from the holes themselves. The only way it could help I can conceive of is if you have vented rotors and there are vanes on the inside of the rotor moving air, and it either sucks or blows air through those said holes.
Regardless, ducting and simply having properly sized rotors would do more good IMO than drilling or slotting. Not that I've ever seen an indication slots or dimples are a bad thing, of course, and Ive seen anecdotal evidence its useful.
2) You argue that you gain surface area but what about the loss in actual mass to absorb and dissipate heat.
12-14-05, 06:37 PM
#22
I'm pretty sure almost ALL brake pads have a little slot in them, designed to help outgas.....
I know for heatsinks, that better surface area(with airflow) increases cooling. I think that mass has less to do with cooling than surface area. (IE big think chunky things stay hot longer)
there are set ups that bring cool air and force it over the rotor through fancy flexible ducting.
I've seen at least 1 FD with a set up like this.....
I know for heatsinks, that better surface area(with airflow) increases cooling. I think that mass has less to do with cooling than surface area. (IE big think chunky things stay hot longer)
there are set ups that bring cool air and force it over the rotor through fancy flexible ducting.
I've seen at least 1 FD with a set up like this.....
12-14-05, 07:26 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Mordachai
I'm pretty sure almost ALL brake pads have a little slot in them, designed to help outgas.....
No, it does not.
Do you know why the sidewalk and other slabs of concrete have control joints? Look into it if not.
In addition to controlling cracking and deterioration, the gap aids in shedding worn away material to give the trailing section of the pad a clean surface to mate against.
Also, with longer pad designs, there maybe several gaps. The goal is to have the pad sections square.
Even bicycle brakes have gaps in them. Don't try and tell me they have outgassing problems.
Outgassing....LOL
Last edited by RX-Heven; 12-14-05 at 07:33 PM.
12-14-05, 07:47 PM
#24
The Cause of Death
I've been running cross drilled and slotted rotors (fronts, blank rears) on my 88 base for almost a year now. The car hasn't seen track time or autox time yet, but they have held up fine for me. I have done some HARD stops/slow downs from 100+ to about 40 and they've held up just fine. No cracking or anything. I'm also running AXXIS ceramic pads. All rotors and pads were replaced at the same time, bedded in properly. Pity I'm still running single piston calipers though. Maybe after these rotors are out of spec I'll upgrade to the 4 piston...
In my opinion, if your car won't be seeing track time, cross drilled and slotted rotors are fine. NORMAL street driving and the occasional race shouldn't present a problem. After reading horror stories of these types of rotors "exploding" and cracking from track use, I'd say stay away from them. That's just if you plan on tracking the car often though.
As far as I'm concerned, with my driving style (occasional racing and normal driving) the rotors are holding up just fine. I haven't experienced brake fade either, even after harsh stops like I mentioned above.
Do what you want though. I'd say they are just for show. If you're serious about bringing your rex to the track, stick with blanks.
James
In my opinion, if your car won't be seeing track time, cross drilled and slotted rotors are fine. NORMAL street driving and the occasional race shouldn't present a problem. After reading horror stories of these types of rotors "exploding" and cracking from track use, I'd say stay away from them. That's just if you plan on tracking the car often though.
As far as I'm concerned, with my driving style (occasional racing and normal driving) the rotors are holding up just fine. I haven't experienced brake fade either, even after harsh stops like I mentioned above.
Do what you want though. I'd say they are just for show. If you're serious about bringing your rex to the track, stick with blanks.
James
12-14-05, 08:16 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
1) How many modern brake pads release gas???
2) You argue that you gain surface area but what about the loss in actual mass to absorb and dissipate heat.
2) You argue that you gain surface area but what about the loss in actual mass to absorb and dissipate heat.
2. I was asking a question! The loss of mass is negligeable, and at any rate I doubt it would lose so much mass it would acutally effect anything signifigantly.