Got into a decent front end crash, cracked my radiator so im now lookin to get an aluminum one, is this a good pick?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RX7-RX-7-FC-...item5890e1e7bf


i know i should probably go with koyo but dont have to much cash right now

 

How about this? Lifetime Warranty...
http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator

Either way I'd use the stock fan shroud and clutch fan.

 

I don't know about that radiator but generally per used and even a few that are new you could get a Koyo instead. I have to admit I am very biased because I own one, but that also means I know how they act. My car stays cool year round, and when it's 20 degrees out I have to let it warm up in my garage for 10 minutes just so I can get the heater on.

 

That has nothing to do with the radiator.

 

Before I changed to the koyo it would heat up in 2min that weather... So for having nothing to do with the radiator and starting after I installed the radiator is just happy coincidence? Not to mention the Koyo has a higher capacity for coolant level which physics itself would denote that a smaller volume of liquid heats quicker than a larger volume. If you don't believe me go put a pot of water on your stove with 1 cup of water time how long it takes to reach boil then try again with 3. Also, I ran both systems without a thermostat installed so the only coolant system change was to the radiator.

If you have a fascinating explanation to why all of that is irrelevant than by all means school me because my logic is obviously flawed.

 

radiator has nothing to do with it because the heater core pulls hot coolant from the back of the engine block. the engine block recirculates the water till the thermoustat opens to cycle cycle in cool radiator fluid.


now... just sit back, and think WHY the radiator wont have any affect on it.

 

^ thermostat not installed it's a free flowing system... Radiator is largest concentration of coolant which is constantly being pumped through it which is where the back of the engine gets it's radiator fluid... So I still fail to see why in my application that would make a difference or explain why it started happening only after I replaced the radiator.

 

Almost like you just ignored how I mentioned I didn't have a thermostat all together.

 

so you guys recomend going OE ??

 

Yes. An aluminum radiator would work too but it's unnecessary. I'd save the $200 and put it towards something necessary like brakes, suspension, gas, fluids, etc.

Definitely use a thermostat. You want your engine to warm up as fast as possible. A 192F thermostat is less than $15. Not a bad investment and it's a good time to swap out the original one if it's still in there.

If you're really worried about cooling you should spend some time making the seal around the radiator and oil cooler air tight. Mazda used some type of foam and adhesive to seal the gaps around the heat exchangers. The foam is usually missing or dry rotted by now. I think having good ducting will keep the operating temperature of the coolant and oil more stable by improving the air flow through the fins. This is really important when the car isn't moving and the engine is running. Without good ducting the fan can't pull in fresh air through the front bumper cover.

 

Chinese alloy rads from eBay have a very inconsistent rep...some are fine, some are junk.
Regardless of the radiator's quality, that fan wouldn't be sufficient.

 

I have perfectly good OEM T2 for cheap. If your trying to get a non rep. aluminum radiator your better off with stock, they actually fit with no hacking involved

 

why the hell would someone not install a thermostat?

 

less weight yo

 

My motor is a bit of a frankenstein, nothing in it is matching to the model of my car and the intakes do not even match to the type of block we used. My first motor went due to overheating and my second motor was plagued by constant coolant leaks and overheating. After replacing many of the back plugs, stops, nipples etc on the car I changed the pressure cap which helped but didn't solve it completely. Since where we are has the unique climate of reaching -30F and as high as 115F during the summer we decided "what the hell lets pull the thermostat", ever since I have had no overheating problems and had to replace none of the hoses or stops. The decision to pull the thermostat was made after attempting to replace it three times with overheating still happening after each replacement.

I appreciate the sarcastic "lighter weight yo", but you know what they say about the word "assume" and you obviously assumed I hadn't thought out or tried alternatives to removing my thermostat. Also, I realize this is a pretty unique move to pull with your car and just because it worked for my application doesn't mean I would suggest other people trying it as well. I do not know why my engine works the way it does I have just come to accept and love it with minimal questioning.

You two trolls have a nice day

 

That fan wouldnt be sufficient? Or any electric fan wouldnt be sufficient?

 

That fan that comes with the rad is, as they say, "weak sauce."

^Your old radiator was clogged.

Removing the thermostat only caused this.

 

I removed the thermostat in response to the overheating which actually improved the situation after several failed replacements. I actually checked the radiator I removed and sold it, there wasn't a clog that I was able to find using a pressurized circulation test into a catch bucket. Who knows, maybe I will try a thermostat in it again this year? But I have been running without one for about a 2 years now with no complications.

 

I don't like the plastic OE radiator, but if you are really short on money then it is probably the best choice for a reliable radiator. However, a Koyo is only about $40 more than the OE radiator.
http://www.rx7store.net/category_s/287.htm

That is because you removed the thermostat. I hope you properly plugged the bypass hole.

Wow, only $15 to overheat the engine with the wrong thermostat. What a deal!

 

You can get a koyo shipped for less than $300 shipped. I paid $240 for my replacement radiator from rotary performance( down the street from me). I would had gotten the koyo, but my 7 is my daily and I needed to get to work the next day.

 

just get a stock ALL brass replacement. they are cheap and good to use.

 

Stock rads are definitely good rads. Ebay rads on the other hand, run away as fast as you can. I know the price point is tempting, but from experience I can assure you they are absolute garbage these days. I went through (6), yes S-I-X transactions buying these rads (yes, I was desperate to get a good "deal"). They all had the same problems. **** welds, missing sensor bungs, and pipe connection necks that were so shallow that there's no way the lower rad hose wouldn't have blown off.

Save yourself the hassle and save for something with a reputation of quality, or go with an OEM rad.

And fergodsake man.... use a thermostat.

 

That fan in particular would not work.

Figure the stock thermoclutch fan is pulling somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000cfm.
I much prefer OEM efans- Taurus, Villager, Volvo- to aftermarket units.
OEM stuff is usually built tougher and is relatively cheap.
Plus, you get a shroud, which your fan lacks.

 

Well i definatelly want to get electric fans because thats what i had on my old rx7 and it worked fine, but my friend just offered me a dual core aluminum radiator, accept i would have to custom fit it to work, so you guys suggest i just go with a stock radiator and electric fans??? (Well no one is going to suggest that but will it be ok to run that set up?) The stock fan shroud was cracked in the crash.

 

Yes it'll be fine. ran mine that way for years.