Is the front "crank pulley" bolt reverse threaded?

OK, so I actually drove my 10th AE since it has come into my possession. The clutch slips under moderate to hard acceleration (this plays an integral part in my problem)

I'm trying to take the front "crank pulley" bolt out to replace the pulleys with the RB machined aluminum one plus the original air pump, alt, and power steering pulleys. Anyway... I put the car in 5th gear chocked the rear tires so they would not turn. Stuck my impact wrench on the end, and ... *Clank Clank Clank Clank Clank...* it’s turning the engine over slowly !!! CLUTCH SLIPPAGE!!! Ok, no big deal. I bust out the chain wrench (like in my Haynes manual) lock it on to the spindle use my breaker bar this time, as sharp impact strikes will just turn the spindle in the chain wrench *creek* the damn spindle turns in the chain wrench...

Ok so it's been a week, I had my fiancé hitting the bolt with Kroil oil once a day, and I have torched the bolt twice (torched - put a propane torch directly to the bolt to make it expand and stretch the hole it is in as well as loosening some of the rust that I believe is holding it.)

So I tried again today, but with no avail.

Anyone have any good ideas how to get this bolt out without breaking, melting, cutting anything?? Am I missing something as simple as this bolt is reverse threaded? I really hope it's not... that would be too easy... is it?

thank you for any help you all can offer,

Ryosuke

 

Nothing on the car is reverse thread.
There's a lot of thead locker on it - it's a royal pain to remove.
I typically use the "starter trick" to get it loose.


-Ted

 

Could you elaborate on this?...

Nevermind. I can figure it out.

Logically you would want your battery fully charged.
because of the rotation of the engine, pulling the EGI fuse and cranking the engine you could put a breaker bar on that bolt and brace it against something... not sure what to brace it against other than strapping a 2x6 to the driver's side front wheel. I can cut a channel in the center of the wood so the bar wont jump out and hit my fender. get in the car and crank it a couple of times...

does that sound about right?

thank you for your help,
Ryosuke

 

Don't put the car in gear, leave it in neutral. Use a long breaker bar, and I'd imagine you could let it rest on the fender with sufficient padding underneath (I haven't had to do this yet).

 

Yeah, that's basically it.

Breaker bar...wrap handle with a rag, lay it on the driver's side frame rail.
Use a 6-point, short socket (or an impact one) for best strength.
We've broken 12-point and deep sockets before.
Minimum 1/2" drive - don't bother with 3/8" drive stuff!

Close the hood in case the breaker bar goes flying!

Hit the starter for a split second, and it's enough power to loose the stubborn bolt.


-Ted