I've got a few questions I was wondering if anyone could answer for me:

1) Are the NA & T2 AFM's the same, or different?
2) what symptoms are there of running without the o2 sensor?
3) what symptoms are there of running with a broken knock sensor wire?
4) is there a difference between the NA and T2 pulsation dampners/fuel rails other than the location of the PD?
5) any suggestions on fuel filter? (are they different from a NA to T2?)
6) what kind of symptoms would there be with the wastegate actuator arm bent?

 

hmm I can answer # 2

nothing. maybe 5% worse gas millage.

just dont' leave a hole open in the down pipe

 

Hahaha, thanks for the tip Scott, I've got that plugged with an 02 sensor, it's just the wire I think is broke somewhere. Any other's you can answer?

 

I seemed to have stumped everyone, so here's some more questions:

7) would an unpressurized fuel tank cause problems? (mine doesn't seem to pressurize)
8) Are there differences between the series 4 and series 5 fuel pumps?
9) Any idea why my knock sensor is disconnected but I don't get the error code?
10) where can I get hylomar from?

 

1) NA and T2 AFM's do have different part numbers, but are physically very similar and you can run the car with the "wrong" AFM. Don't know how well it will work throughout the powerband, though, but we have started and revved a car with this setup.

2). Bad fuel economy.

3). You won't notice running without the knock sensor - the car will drive fine without it. But, you lose the safety net.

4). Yes, there is a difference in the fuel rails. Can't remember exactly, but there *is* a physical difference. They're both functionally the same, it's just a mechanical issue - will it bolt in, fit, etc.

5). Fuel filters are the same. Get a Purolator from Pep Boys and you're ready to rock.

6). If the actuator arm was bent, you'd likely get overboosting problems, as it would preload the wastegate.

Dale

 

Wooo! I always like when guru's show up! :] Alright, I've got a series 4 fuel rail instead of the series 5 and I was wondering if there were any mechanical differences, and when I looked around everywhere had the T2 and NA afm's listed as the same (doh!) Happen to know where I can find a good source to compare? I've got some mysterious issues that I just can't seem to resolve. As far as the wastegate actuator, it seems to be bent but I don't have any boost problems that I can tell, it stayed relatively low (around 5-6psi) while I was driving it, albeit I never got moving very fast. Well, this answers quite a lot more!

 

7). The fuel tank should NOT be pressurized as a function of the fuel injection system. The "hiss" when you open the cap is just residual vacuum/pressure from opening a sealed system, kind of like opening something with a freshness seal.

8). Yes, there are differences. Flow-wise, probably not. Physically, yes - the S5 pumps seal with an O-ring at the top, and the S4 pumps just have a hose barb. But, the pumps can be rigged either way .

9). You may or may not get the knock sensor error code - I think the ECU may store it after running without it for a long time.

10). Autozone typically has it. Just look in the section with the RTV. Hell, most auto parts stores have it.

Any more stumpers? I'm on a roll!

Dale

 

what color are my eyes?

 

You can run an S4 rail with an S5 setup. You will need the S4 fuel rail bolts, and the secondary fuel rail will need a spacer where the rail bolts to the manifold - real minor stuff. Can't remember on the primary rail.

*digging next to desk*

The '89-91 T2 AFM has a sticker that says -

Mazda
N370
197200-0020
Denso Japan

See what your part number is.

I'd be happy with the low boost for now .

Dale

 

Brown, 'cause you're full o' ....

Kidding!

Dale

 

Hahaha, nice! Alright, thanks for the AFM info, I don't recall there even being a # on mine (grrrrrrr!) I don't hear a hiss at all from my fuel system when I open the cap like I usually do, which is making me wonder if it's not a sealed system.... Oh here's another question, I used to have a bad oil seal that pretty much PUMPED oil into my exhaust (damn **** was dripping from my exhaust manifold) And was run like that probably 6 times and I'm sure my exhaust is just coated with it, any idea how long it'd take to burn that **** out? Another question: any idea's what would cause the car after running just fine for 5-10 minutes all of the sudden start hesitating and bucking like crazy? Even if I stop and try to rev it up it'll hesitate, but it's only after I get going, I can sit and idle and rev all day long, but once I get going for about 5 minutes it just goes whacked, TPS is adjusted like it should be, and so forth, timing is set. I'm really not liking that AFM!