Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

The coolant seals finally went out completely on my engine. Now its time for a rebuild, but I have a few questions:

First: I am planning on reusing the side and corner seals from this engine, which has about 95-100k on it. Assuming they are in spec, does it really matter if they go back in the exact same spot on the exact same rotor? I have heard they need to go back to the same spot, and I have heard that the sizes are so close that they can go back anywhere. Which is true?

Second, how vital is it that the pressure plate is resurfaced? I am getting a new clutch and a new friction surface for my RB aluminum flywheel. I have an ACT pressure plate with about 40-50k miles on it.

Third, how helpful is an oil baffle plate, really? Its only 40 something bucks, and if its helpful I would like to get it, but if not I'd like to save as much money as I can.

Thanks in advance for all the help, and I'll post more questions as I think of them!

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Position of corner and side seals is not critical at all, but there are always those that swear by the manual's method and will say you should do it that way. I have yet to use a marked seal case in my life.

I wasnt aware people resurfaced pressure plates. If you are fine with the clutch's engagement characteristics right now, then don't worry about it. On "normal" cars, resurfacing gets rid of the slight vibration/chatter upon clutch slippage that results from heat marks on the friction surfaces. On sportscars like the 7, the clutch gets somewhat abused and as a result even if you machine the surfaces flat, they will get heated up and spot up again in short order, so it's really nothing to worry about unless it's current engagement characteristics are unacceptable to you.

I wouldnt worry about the baffle plate for a streetcar whatsoever. It's another source for a leak. The rotary's stock oiling system is more than sufficient for 99% of users out there.

initial D is REAL!

I would consider just buying the full rebuild kit if you could afford it, and buying a new clutch setup. I think the springs in the pressure plate can get weaker over time.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the excellent advice Kevin, I was hoping I would get some reputable builder's advice. That will save me a good 100 bucks, plus the peice of mind knowing that the side seals are fine to mix up.
Also, I can technically afford a full rebuild kit, but it would blow pretty much my whole budget. That and its really not needed if the side and corner seals are in spec. If I had new housings I would spring for the full rebuild kit, but I don't so its a waste.
The housings I am going to (hopefully) use don't have a whole lot of wear on them, just some mild flaking on the edges in a few places. The thing I'm worried about is there is some abnormal wear due to the way the engine died on the area just above the exhaust port on one housing. The apex seal basically fused iteslf into the rotor and it didn't compress enough. I am going to take the housings to a rotary meet next week to get some first-hand opinions, since pictures don't really convey it. If those don't work out, then the ones from my current engine should be ok. The coolant seals failed on it and they still have good compression (105) so they should be in decent shape. Its just that theyu aren't ported like the other ones.