I've got a couple problems, just figured I'd throw these up and let the forum bite them while I go to sleep and check over the car tommorow. I've been searching for the wheelhop for a few days now but the other two problems are new.

1. Idles a rock solid 800 with no bounces for minutes but than will get a slight miss and run lean for a second and the idle will drop to almost stall and than gain itself back. Also while cruising you can feel it dip a little and my wideband again tells me I run momentarily lean. Check Engine light turns on after this happens for the first time each time the car is started and will stay on until the car is shut off.

2. Just replaced rear pads and rotors. Now the left side of the rear is really hot when I walk out of the car and the right rotor has a groove on the back side of it and the pad is only using half of itself on the outermost side, you can see the difference in shinyness from the left side to the right side. Also, if I take a real hard left hand turn or if I got over a bump, the right rear sounds like something metal is digging into something moving.

3. Launched the car at 4k at the track, no wheelhop and pulled a 2.2 60'. I tried for a 5k clutch dump and I just wheelhopped like crazy.

From my searches I have gained....

1. Vacuum leaks are not a factor as that would be a constant bounce, I will be checking AFM and TPS tommorow. Also the wiring to my wideband which has recently changed spots in my car may have gotten kinked somewhere, I'll see if a solder busted or something.

2. For the right side: Dust shield has been checked to see if it is contacting rotor, when the car is not moving it is not. Nothing is in between the pads and the calipers or the pads and the rotors. I'm guessing the caliper is not opening/closing correctly and may need to be relubed or rebuilt? Left side: Caliper stuck closed and overheating the pads?

3. Replace rear suspension bushings, install pinion snubber and new differential mounts. I have ordered a rear strut tower bar as well, not necessarily to fix the problem, but because it was a good deal and I have heard it has solved some forum member's issues. I have been looking into the Energy Suspension Prothane kit. I also read something about some kit in the black being better than the red because the red needs to be lubed and the black is self lubing with graphite. A pinion snubber can be bought at any auto parts store and the differential mounts can be got at Mazdatrix for 99 for the front and 53 a piece for two rears. So I'm just going to bite the bullet and drop it and replace it all. My wheels are 215 wide Nexens on 8 inch wide 5zigens and I am on Intrax springs with stock struts. I have also read that the springs might be a bad combo with the stock struts but I'm going to try the bushings and mounts first.

As you can see I have done my research. Please reply with any thoughts.

 

Crap, I just realized something. When I reinstalled my calipers I left the locknuts off of the caliper mounting bolts. Could this be allowing the bolts to stick out and dig into my rotors?

 

O2 sensors can only read burnt fuel. If you have a miss the sensor is getting hit with unburnt fuel and it cannot read it, only the unburnt oxygen...it will show as a lean spike and that is not truly the case. Fixe the problem causing the mis-fire and you wont see that unless you truly are that lean.

 

YES i am willing to bet this is also why your 60ft sucks ***. i suprized u got your wheels on with out noticeing something was not right.

lots of new used parts for you.

 

Do you happen to know if the lockwashers belong on the top mounting bolt or the bottom? Or is there 4 all around? I think I only had two. If this was true than the left side would have a groove too wouldn't it?

What could be causing my misfire than? New plugs, wires, walbro fuel pump. I've flooded the car a few times this week so I'm going to try cleaning the plugs.

 

look and watch it for awhile, that answer will almost certainly come to you, and you will never again forget.

FC's are old, the OEM set up calls for a a very thin locking shim that ties in with a scorn surface on the rear bracken/hub mount. even with out the shim the bolt is the correct size and it should never come close to lathe the rotor. about 5/8in of clearance there.

however if a front Cali bolt is used (at all) it will touch the rotor and it wont feel very different from using the right bolt, and if placed on top hole (shimmed) so it dose not hit rotor, it can disturb E-brake function due to clearance issues


missin ay? well i buy the ten packs of both T and L NGK plugs and have a few fancy overly expensive denso plugs on hand at all times, as well as at least 2 sets of wires. if i have a set for 6 months or pull them off more than 7 times i put new plugs on right away.

its not your fuel pump, its time for new injectors. the FC is gey like that, some japo did not remember to equalize the pressure out of the rails/ so 20 years down the line his one and only purpose in life would remain 2 be a pain in the ***.

and dont be cheap, buy new plugs

 

So I think you are telling me to check my injectors, plugs, and caliper mounting bolts.

Do I got that?

 

I put the locknuts back on each caliper mounting bolt. The noise remains.

Cleaned off my plugs, now it runs worse. I'm going to get new plugs and re-time it.

 

Nobody has anything to say?

I think it's leaking injectors.

Before the winter: 19 mpg, never flooded.
Now: 13 mpg, floods if it sits longer than a few days.

I may have overheated them upping the boost and fuel %. I'm going to buy 4 720ccs and see if that fixes it.

It only skips at idle or in closed loop, not under load. But I doubt I would feel the skip in load if it were a stuck open injector because it would just burn with the 10psi.

Does this all sound plausible?

 

Edit: It still skips under load too. It's not the kind of rev like when a TPS is out of wack. It feels more like the car is going to stall and than it saves itself.

Could this be alternator or fuel pump related?

 

--Tried Techron Injector cleaner. No good. Tried brand new spark plugs. Issue remains. I also resoldered wiring to my O2 sensor. No change.

--Brake issue was HOPEFULLY resolved, I was looking at the wrong side of the car. One of the studs for the caliper mounting bracket was digging into the rotor.

--Wheelhop issue has not been resolved, but MAY have been located. The circled area has a lot of play in it. Would this cause wheelhop?





If I don't get a reply I'm started another thread, this is ridiculous. No feedback from anybody in 4 days.