ItsNiceToBurnRice

i did my base intake maninfold gasket, and I had to take out the actuators, but I didnt take the actual ports or valves out, and my airpump bracket is off-and Im drivin it, but it still pulls strong past 5000. Ive driven my car with it off before and I noticed it wouldnt go once it hit 5 grand. But Ive also never driven my car with a base gasket that wasnt blown. I just dont see what I took off that would get them to stick open.

ItsNiceToBurnRice

I wanna know, cause Ill be real pumped if Im gonna have even more power when I put the pump back on

ItsNiceToBurnRice

So you guys are tellin me no one knows this? Or has never had it happen?

tesla042

That's really not a good idea.. Without the actuators, the valves can freely turn... they can probably even slide out.. There's no telling if they're oriented open, closed, or any other direction.... The actuators themselves don't cause much restriction at all, since they're on the outside--it's the valves you want to worry about.

-Tesla

ItsNiceToBurnRice

I didnt drive it with them out, Im just sayin when I did the gasket I had to take out the actuators. I was just wonderin when I put the actuators back in if they coulda went in wrong or something to where they are stuck open.

von

I think theirs a possibility for one or more to be closed or not seated properly.
I have all mine out. Sleeves and all. But took the whold acv out and not just the actuators. The rods that the actautors hold are keeping the sleeves lines up with the intake port. I can see how u might of turned them accedently. They also might vibrate and change direction on ther own. But dont know how hard the rods are holding it... U should just take the sleeves and acv out then wire ur vdi to high. Saves u trouble. The actuators will slow u down if thats all u have done to them. A properly working 6port system with airpump is better than one not working until u go all the way and take it all out and wire ur vdi to high, and with lots of mods. Then u will feel lots of top end difference. U can even gain ur low end back with some pinaple racing 6p sleeves. Just stick them in... Glue them or something. Mazdaspeed 7 did this with his own built sleeves and gianed more low end then with the vdi closed. So All said and done u should be really fast.

ItsNiceToBurnRice

yeah I noticed the actuators had little rods with a space in them for something, so how do I know they are lined up when I put them in?

HAILERS

I think there is some miscommunication here as to what a actuator and a sleeve are. It could just be me though. The actuator is the part sticking out there in plain view. The sleeve is the part that is cylindrical in shape and is inserted inside the bore. If the question is *COULD I HAVE SCREWED UP THE INSTALLATION OF THE SLEEVES?*, then the answer is *you betcha*. The sleeves(auxilliary port valves) have a *pin* that they are rotated with. It has a large end and a small end. The large end aligns with a mating mark on the housing. You could have gotten that 180 out or when you offered up the intake manifold, you could have very easily missed mating the sleeve pin with the actuator rods jaws. I'd go back and take another look at the installation. That should have been a metal intake gasket and you should be able to use it again, and if you didn't put a lot of gook on the upper intake manifold gasket you should be able to use that again. EDIT; go to http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm and look in the Eng Assy section for a general idea. Also http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/6port.html

ItsNiceToBurnRice

Why would I have to take off the manifold again? I never took out the sleeves I didnt know I had to, just the actuators,(the two box like things that screw into the manifold), they had like rods coming out of them with like jaw type things, but they slid back in easy so I thought they obviously lined up, the manual never said anything about lining them back up or how to tell that they are. So cant I just pull them out again and try to slide them back in? Sooo are my ports stuck open then????????

HAILERS

This is the best picture I can find on the site. http://www.goldcoastinspections.com/...ortdrawing.jpg I'm probably the only one really confused, but I think the reason is, is because if you replaced the gasket that goes between the lower intake manifold and the engine *block*, I can't figure out why you would have taken anything more than the actuator pots off which are held with two 10mm nut. It sounds like you took out the long shaft that goes thruy the lower manifold and has a U shape on the end to capture the *cross pin* that is attached to the outboard end of each actuator. And then you removed the lower manifold and replaced the LOWER intake manifold gasket and did not mess with the SLEEVES. Soooooo there is a chance that after you put the lower intake back on, and then shoved that long rod with the U shape on the end back in, that you stabed it just right. All depends. Have you been considerably luckier than the average Joe in your life. Take a look at the picture in the http thing . Well at least the car is running a lot better and you don't have to rush anything . Car won't break over that.

ItsNiceToBurnRice

Yeah now youre on my page, I only did take the pots off, but I was confused cause Ive ran my car before with the blown gasket without an airpump and when I did I could tell the powerband kinda died off at High R's, but now with a new gasket and my airpump belt not on it pulls into the high RPM's like the pump was running. Thats why I came to the conclusion when I put my manifold back on, the rods might have not stabbed the valves right, like maybe they veered off to the side or something (but is that even possible? I would think the manifold wouldnt even fit on unless they were seated), so I thought they would be stuck open since my car runs like a beast without the pump. Maybe this is because my new gasket? maybe my car will run even better when I get the pump belt. I dont see how my valves could be stuck open anyways, I would have to move them to that postion I would think. Plus when I push down on the actuator its easy and then at the bottom it gets stuck for a second and then kinda clicks, this is probally my valves snappin open huh? I just pray that when I put my pump belt on I feel even more of an increase to ensure that they are workin properly. Thanks for all the patients Hailers, youre a good man in my book any day.

HAILERS

You're probably ok, but.......those long shaft are flexible and could veer off. Their not rock solid ridgid. I think theres some rubber involved in the shaft.

skibum9199

No rubber, but part of the shaft is a spring. Just thought i'd comment

~Jesse

HAILERS

Thank you skibum.

ItsNiceToBurnRice

**** man, this makes me think they didnt slide in right, I dont see how it could force the valves to open though since they had to be closed when I took it all apart, they couldntve turned by themselves

SpeedRacer

Unless they were stuck open before? If they were closed when you pulled off the manifold, and when you put it back on, if the rod didn't connect with the slot on the sleeve, then they would still be closed. It wouldn't have opened them somehow.