Has anyone attempted to make a thermostat housing gasket out of coper?
I'm getting tired of having to scrape the old gasket remains, not very convenient.
If anyone has any input it will be appreciated, I'm thinking making one myself for testing.

 

How many thermostats are you going through?
Have you considered silicone? You'd still have to scrape it off, but it might be easier than cruddy paper (which is what the t-stat gasket is IIRC).

 

Yeah i dont understand why you would need to be contently removing your gasket, just get paper one it works fine for mine!

 

the thermostat shouldn't need to be replaced more than about every 50k miles or 5+ years minimum. it shouldn't be an issue that it needs to be reinvented.

 

I'm familiar with that, although on track days I would like to run open thermostat.

 

I bought a 12" x 12" sheet of 16 gauge coper metal, I intend to trace the thermostat housing and cut it. I'll post some pictures later. As for the rest of it I would like to make an exhaust gasket out of it. The piece of metal cost me 5 bucks, I figure I cant go wrong with that.

 

if you want more flow from the thermostat for racing applications you can drill passages along the outside edge of the thermostat that sits inside the housing. running without a thermostat will cause large fluctuations in water temps and lead to other issues. removing it is a band-aid for other cooling system issues.

 

Oh, I'd say you can, and most probably will, "go wrong with that".

I don't see any way that copper is a suitable gasket material for the thermostat housing, it lacks the "crush" you need to conform and seal.
A standard paper gasket would be much better- and far easier to make in quantity if you absolutely insist on removing the thermostat on a regular basis*.

The same would hold true for the exhaust manifold...metal gaskets there are usually metal facings with a center layer that allows for crush sealing and also typically feature embossed ridges (yeah, maybe not RX gaskets but many others do...) to help seal as well.

This sounds like a bad idea.


*If you insist on removing the housing often- and actually, even if you just have it off once- you might consider installing studs to replace the OEM bolts.
Steel bolts in the aluminum waterpump housing are prone to seizing because of the presence of water and the constant thermal cycling.
Studs can be a lifesaver in this application.

 

I agree with clokker on this, I don't feel that the copper is a suitable material for water retention, especially under pressure.

 

mazda race engineers where not fools when they developed MFR race pumps without a thermostat or bypass


if you wish to emulate the mazda MFR water pump without thermostat you must tap and bung the bypass hole in the thermoneck that usually bypasses back to the water pump inlet
this takes a 1/2 inch NPT tap and a bung



it can be reversed instantly by removing the bung and reinstating the thermostat


PS
if you use silicon,, or even non set gasket maker and paper
,, or even use nickel anti seize on both sides of the paper
the paper can be removed easily
if you glue it down with setting compound,, its a drama

 

Thank god S5's just use an O-ring.

 

So I was able to simply trace out a pattern on a piece of paper trace it to the copper material with a marker. I then used a hole saw to cut the big opening and drill&dremil for the small bolt holes. Took about 20 minutes to do the job.

Here is what I've used.


And the finished product.

 

If you were going to use sealant, I'll bet you could have left the copper gasket out.

 

Haha.... same thoughts here..... why did you use a silicone sealant if you were complaining about scraping crap?

 

To tell you the truth it will come off much easier as opposed to the paper crap that tears apart and then you have to spend more time cleaning.

 

Have you guys never encountered the stock asbestos based gaskets?

When I bought my car, it was bone stock, from the factory condition. When I replaced my water pump it took me 3 hours to scrape off the old asbestos gasket. Goo gone, wall paper remover, oil...you name it, no go. Just had to scrape and scrape for hours.

 

Thats 80's technology for ya.

 

sure but that is a one shot deal. the replcement gaskets aren't nearly as difficult nor have the need to "chisel" off the oiginal gasket. i've dealt with it many times, but replacement afterwards is no issue.

i'm also confused why the need for the copper gasket was necessary too if he was going to use silicone anyways. same amount of cleaning if not more because you now have 4 surfaces to clean versus 2...