arch8300

I go out to my car after work and their is a puddle of coolant under it, luckily i have some water and add it to go home. Also i got my car back from my parents mechanic(a non rotary guy) who charged me 230 for supposidly fixing this same problem.I start to drive, But then after car is warm it starts to jerk and pause while the RPMs drop 200 or so. Its nights like these that make me ponder selling my 7.

Could the coolant thing be caused by a removed air pump and no dual alt pully?? I think this b/c the car will have the add coolant light on only if revs are less that 2100.
Any Ideas

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

bleed your radiator

arch8300

I have done that so many times I can not count how many

pip

Step 1) Figure out where the coolant is coming from and post a reply with this new information as it could be coming from any number of areas.

SureShot

Find the leak & the buzzer problem will go away.
You may have to pressure test it.
A common failure spot is the 3/8” coolant line that runs from the top of the rear housing (under the intake runners) to the throttle body, to the BAC, to the water pump.
Another one is the heater hose under the oil filter.

arch8300

I believe the TPS is set correctly.
The cooling system though is not leaking out of any hose but after driving for 25min or so it will start to over flow out of the over flow bottle. If i rev the car to 2k it will turn off the add coolant light (i think becuase it sucks coolant in when reved this much but do not know for sure)

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to the possibility of a blown coolant seal..

Here is the test:

Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

blockage in the system i'm guessing, Make sure you have the proper OEM thermostat. $20 shipped priority mail from Mazdatrix.

arch8300

I have a 1 month old mazda t stat
And I will try the blown coolant seal trick

And my coolant seals could be bad even if the engine stays cool the entire time (well untill the coolant level gets too low ???? )

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Well, your symptoms reminded me of when my coolant seals went out. Now addmitedly my engine got a little warm, but it was driveable for a while till the coolant ran out.

I threw my suggestion out because of a similar experience I had. God willing, I am wrong!!!

arch8300

Thanks and i will try tommorrow and let you know

arch8300

Ok i did the check to see if the seals are bad and no water came out. I let it crank for 5-7 sec and then repreated with no water spilling out. so are my coolant seals still good maby???
I also installed a dual alt pully and it seems to be working good but I will be able to tell later tonight on the 30 min ride to work

arch8300

After driving to work it over flooded again but it could be because it over filled the system owell I will find out later