NA/FC-Drifter

Waz up guys? I've got one for you.

I just got an 88 RX7 gxl. It was having some colling issues, so I changed the thermostat, water pump, and added an electric fan(with a toggle switch). My problem is that im still having to add about 8-16 fl-oz of extra coolant everyday because it tries to run low and wants to overheat. Most of the fluid loss is coming from the overflow tank up front.

What would be some of the causes? And possible solutions afterward?
Thanx

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

make sure your rad cap and or fill neck cap have the proper pressure rating. you might also need to burp your system, if your water pump is blowing lots of bubbles you might be losing significant amounts of fluids that way. now by the fluid loss from the overflow tank, do you mean the overflow tank itself fills up and spills out?

NA/FC-Drifter

Yah, the overflow fills completely up to the point where the coolant comes out the little black tube.

How exactly do I "burp" the system? Does that have anything to do with the phillips-head screw looking thing on the side of the radiator neck?

How can I check the cap's ratings?

I added some water-wetter, should that help @ all?

VacavilleFC

sounds like you've lost a coolant seal in the motor, that causes air to get pushed into the coolant system and forces it out the reservoir, take the cap off the coolant line above the thermostat, let the car warm up completely, does it have alot of bubbles coming up? similar to champagne. if it does turn out to be a coolant seal i'm sorry to say you'll need a complete rebuild

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

yes, do a search on 'burp radiator' or something like that and you'll probably find something useful.

it should be on the cap, but if there's any doubt the cap could be wrong or old then get a new one that's rated properly, they're not very expensive, usually <$10
a guy just recently literally had his fill neck explode because he had something like a 25psi cap on it instead of the right one (the right one is somewhere around 12psi, but look it up, I'm not exactly sure what it's supposed to be).

I don't know anything about water wetter.

Vacaville might be right about the coolant seal, but I do know for sure that IF a motor coolant seal is the problem then yes, you will most definitely have to rebuild the motor or put a different one in the car.

NA/FC-Drifter

I have taken the cap off before just to check or add collant. Once (when it was on the verge of overheating) the bubbles were like when water boils. Another time the bubbles were like a "light" champagne effect. just a few.

I was checking in my haynes manuel after the thermostat and water pump change, and I noticed something about this tiny little "jiggle" valve thing on the thermostat, and that it needs to be pointing up when installing. Im pretty sure I pointed it up when i installed it. If i did'nt though, could that cause this bubble issue?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

maybe, I don't know for sure but someone else might; your best bet is to take the fill neck off and see how you put it in there the first time.

VacavilleFC

i'm not saying it is the coolant seal, does sound like a good possibility. but diagnosing engines over the internet really isn't my forte. i'm actually in the process of replacing my waterpump today because it started to go out on me and leak out the weep hole.

the other thing it could be your e-fan toggle switch combo, you really need to be running a thermoswitch, eventually you'll forget. also it's actually bad for it to be running all the time because of the amount of amps is drawing.

e-fan itself could be your problem too. our stock fan setup is supreme to pretty much every affordable e-fan out there, your might just not be good enough.

do you have all the plastic cooling panels in place? those missing will cause problems too

SpooledupRacing

are u running a nippon or oem mazda stat if not that will most likley be your problem too

NA/FC-Drifter

You mean the factory shroud thing?

NA/FC-Drifter

Just whichever one they gave me @ autozone. Probably nippon.

also, I put the new unit in just the same as the old one came out.

VacavilleFC

hmmm, well having the thermostat backwards would be BAD, i'm not sure if it would still open. or open at the proper temp. you need to check that and get back to us

he's asking if your using a cheapo thermostat or a mazda brand one? there are known issues with using cheap ones.

yes the fan shroud, also the plastic shroud that goes under the car.

NA/FC-Drifter

I thought i woulding need the factory shroud with the e-fan. The shroud that goes under the car...u mean the "skid plate"? Yah I removed it to discover my water-pump leak.

VacavilleFC

okey i'm going back to my original conclusion that you have blown a coolant seal, if your having to add water too it everyday and theres no leaks other than the coolant reservoir i think thats what the evidence points too

really all we can do is guess though, your the only one that can figure it out. so get off the internet and go take it apart

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

...he said 'water pump leak', doesn't that indicate the leak may not be a coolant seal??? (the answer is 'yes'...)

VacavilleFC

if you read his first post he already replaced the water pump, we're just discussing the cooling panels and he's saying yes he has it he had to remove it to find the water pump leak earlier

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I'll add another vote to the "make sure you have a mazda rad cap and thermostat". The regular retail parts store ones tend to fail. Also, the jiggle valve needs to be positioned to the top. If you like your e-fan setup, at least get the thermostat cover with the thermo switch and relay setup from a '7 with auxiliary electric fan. I believe the automatics and some (or all) turboII's have them.

NA/FC-Drifter

ok, I did a cold start and checked for bubble. To my dismay, none. so I tried opening the "burp" valve a couple of times to relieve pressure. We'll see how well it holds up. And your guys said that re-installing the skid plade is a deffinate must???

Hellkat

Burping system-
Open rad cap, turn on engine,run heater on full, once warmed up top off coolant, wait a few secs for bubble to settle, add more coolant and close off.