Coolant seal fix worked for me
10-04-03, 01:15 PM
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Coolant seal fix worked for me
The fix
I almost sold the car for CHEAP, but decided to give this quick fix a shot since I came up short on cash for the rebuild.
Skeptical? Ofcourse, but what did I have to lose. It was a classic case of a blown coolant seal - not a geyser but definite air bubbles visible from the rad cap coming from the engine.
Previously, (before the fix) I could ride around for about 15 minutes before it would get too hot and dump coolant.
We did the flushing and added the Block Weld on Monday and let it sit over night. On Tuesday morning I got in it and went for a ride. The temp gauge never went above 1/4 city or highway driving. I have been driving normally all week.
I almost sold the car for CHEAP, but decided to give this quick fix a shot since I came up short on cash for the rebuild.
Skeptical? Ofcourse, but what did I have to lose. It was a classic case of a blown coolant seal - not a geyser but definite air bubbles visible from the rad cap coming from the engine.
Previously, (before the fix) I could ride around for about 15 minutes before it would get too hot and dump coolant.
We did the flushing and added the Block Weld on Monday and let it sit over night. On Tuesday morning I got in it and went for a ride. The temp gauge never went above 1/4 city or highway driving. I have been driving normally all week.
10-04-03, 07:20 PM
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Originally posted by 5 point whoa
thats what I'm about to do 2 marrow. any tips?
thats what I'm about to do 2 marrow. any tips?
I used the purple degreaser at Autozone and Block Seal from Autozone also.
I did a five flushes with degreaser and 4 flushes with water. (running the engine until warm each time)
I did not drain it and refill it again after the process was complete. I'll probably do that Monday after a short road trip to Mississippi.
Best of luck to you.
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01-01-04, 04:14 PM
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Sorry to disagree with you, but I had the same problem on my s5 TII. the car would drive fine until I got into boost then after a few passes the coolant system would build pressure and push the radiator cap open then flow into the resevoir and after the resevoir was filled it would puke out the cap!!!! (it sucks that the motor had perfect compression) I had tried everything to stop it. what seamed to work for a while was i put a stonger radiator cap on and i did add a stop leak, but after a few weeks of driving the car and getting in and out of boost the problem came back! the only thing i can say is that if you have a seal that is leaking try the stop leak but dont try and beet on the car at all and maybe it will last for a few months but a bad seal is never going to get better, your just prolonging the inevitable!!! 
01-01-04, 11:18 PM
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Trueimport-
Several major differences between this process and dumping "stopleak" in.
First, the degreasing process and flushing has got to greatly increase it's effectiveness.
Second, this product is different from "stop leak" formulas.
Most typical stop leaks coagulate slowly with contact from heat and some do it with contact with water, others simply consist of media that clogs up small holes because it clumps together and can't fit through (those are bad on rads).
The Block Weld works differently, it's a metal based formula, that actually melt into the very hottest spots- like an area where there is connection with the combustion chamber (seal leak) The it solidfies, sets (you have to let it set) and then you are good to go! Heard LOTS of good results by doing this process. Maybe you should try it if it isn't too late.
Several major differences between this process and dumping "stopleak" in.
First, the degreasing process and flushing has got to greatly increase it's effectiveness.
Second, this product is different from "stop leak" formulas.
Most typical stop leaks coagulate slowly with contact from heat and some do it with contact with water, others simply consist of media that clogs up small holes because it clumps together and can't fit through (those are bad on rads).
The Block Weld works differently, it's a metal based formula, that actually melt into the very hottest spots- like an area where there is connection with the combustion chamber (seal leak) The it solidfies, sets (you have to let it set) and then you are good to go! Heard LOTS of good results by doing this process. Maybe you should try it if it isn't too late.
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