Coolant passage in LIM question
10-18-11, 09:53 PM
#30
Thanks guys for the tip about the pulsation damper.
I read about it here: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html
I have no idea how old it is. She bought the car knowing it needed a rebuild. Engine is ready to be installed after these new coolant hoses arrive friday or saturday and go on. I did notice that the plastic cover on it cracked and it brittle, likely due to the heat. Maybe replace it after I get the car running? I'd hate to wait another week or so for another item to be shipped.
I read about it here: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html
I have no idea how old it is. She bought the car knowing it needed a rebuild. Engine is ready to be installed after these new coolant hoses arrive friday or saturday and go on. I did notice that the plastic cover on it cracked and it brittle, likely due to the heat. Maybe replace it after I get the car running? I'd hate to wait another week or so for another item to be shipped.
10-19-11, 03:44 AM
#31
See that plastic cover, it pops off. BUT, pop it off slowly because there's a 50-50 chance that there will be a little screw loose behind it. Put your other hand under the cover while you pop it off just in case.
Ok, if you find a tiny screw behind that cap not screwed in, you have a few options: Put a little thread locker on its threads and screw it back in into its hole, replace the entire damper, or...ditch the damper with a banjo bolt matching the size.
I personally don't run a pulsation damper anymore. Did a run-ability test with one on, and then with one off and a banjo bolt in it it's place; found no difference in performance. I've actually been witness to one failing and burning down a newer fd rx7 about 20 years ago, and have seen many burned fc engine bay's caused by fuel leaks probably from a failing pd, so I just rather not have them on there. It's suppose to equalize the fuel pressure waves that are created from injectors at full duty cycle, but I haven't found any measurable difference in having one on or off, in all my rx's I've owned. Perhaps on a longer, larger rail it would help, but not for two small separate rails I would think.
For now, try step one, and if it's still screwed in, tighten it up a bit but not too tight, and cross that off the worry list for a while.
Ok, if you find a tiny screw behind that cap not screwed in, you have a few options: Put a little thread locker on its threads and screw it back in into its hole, replace the entire damper, or...ditch the damper with a banjo bolt matching the size.
I personally don't run a pulsation damper anymore. Did a run-ability test with one on, and then with one off and a banjo bolt in it it's place; found no difference in performance. I've actually been witness to one failing and burning down a newer fd rx7 about 20 years ago, and have seen many burned fc engine bay's caused by fuel leaks probably from a failing pd, so I just rather not have them on there. It's suppose to equalize the fuel pressure waves that are created from injectors at full duty cycle, but I haven't found any measurable difference in having one on or off, in all my rx's I've owned. Perhaps on a longer, larger rail it would help, but not for two small separate rails I would think.
For now, try step one, and if it's still screwed in, tighten it up a bit but not too tight, and cross that off the worry list for a while.
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