Coolant passage in LIM question
Thanks guys for the tip about the pulsation damper.
I read about it here: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html
I have no idea how old it is. She bought the car knowing it needed a rebuild. Engine is ready to be installed after these new coolant hoses arrive friday or saturday and go on. I did notice that the plastic cover on it cracked and it brittle, likely due to the heat. Maybe replace it after I get the car running? I'd hate to wait another week or so for another item to be shipped.
I read about it here: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html
I have no idea how old it is. She bought the car knowing it needed a rebuild. Engine is ready to be installed after these new coolant hoses arrive friday or saturday and go on. I did notice that the plastic cover on it cracked and it brittle, likely due to the heat. Maybe replace it after I get the car running? I'd hate to wait another week or so for another item to be shipped.
See that plastic cover, it pops off. BUT, pop it off slowly because there's a 50-50 chance that there will be a little screw loose behind it. Put your other hand under the cover while you pop it off just in case.
Ok, if you find a tiny screw behind that cap not screwed in, you have a few options: Put a little thread locker on its threads and screw it back in into its hole, replace the entire damper, or...ditch the damper with a banjo bolt matching the size.
I personally don't run a pulsation damper anymore. Did a run-ability test with one on, and then with one off and a banjo bolt in it it's place; found no difference in performance. I've actually been witness to one failing and burning down a newer fd rx7 about 20 years ago, and have seen many burned fc engine bay's caused by fuel leaks probably from a failing pd, so I just rather not have them on there. It's suppose to equalize the fuel pressure waves that are created from injectors at full duty cycle, but I haven't found any measurable difference in having one on or off, in all my rx's I've owned. Perhaps on a longer, larger rail it would help, but not for two small separate rails I would think.
For now, try step one, and if it's still screwed in, tighten it up a bit but not too tight, and cross that off the worry list for a while.
Ok, if you find a tiny screw behind that cap not screwed in, you have a few options: Put a little thread locker on its threads and screw it back in into its hole, replace the entire damper, or...ditch the damper with a banjo bolt matching the size.
I personally don't run a pulsation damper anymore. Did a run-ability test with one on, and then with one off and a banjo bolt in it it's place; found no difference in performance. I've actually been witness to one failing and burning down a newer fd rx7 about 20 years ago, and have seen many burned fc engine bay's caused by fuel leaks probably from a failing pd, so I just rather not have them on there. It's suppose to equalize the fuel pressure waves that are created from injectors at full duty cycle, but I haven't found any measurable difference in having one on or off, in all my rx's I've owned. Perhaps on a longer, larger rail it would help, but not for two small separate rails I would think.
For now, try step one, and if it's still screwed in, tighten it up a bit but not too tight, and cross that off the worry list for a while.
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ZaqAtaq
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Sep 5, 2015 08:57 PM







