Coolant leak (heater hose?)
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Coolant leak (heater hose?)
I need help. I currently have no other way of driving besides my RX7. My coolant buzzer started going off randomly one day, I checked, and coolant was dripping out extremely fast. Luckily I was close to home. I believe I have found the leak. However, its my only transportation atm so I was hoping to get someone else's opinion on fixing this. Im guessing this hose came loose, there isnt even evidence of a clamp in the middle. Does this look right? When I put my hand under the hose, I felt the drip at the split. I realize it could be running down the hose though. Wondering if this is a known old age issue? I do not have jackstands or ramps, so I cant just look from under. Tried using my phone and will include pics. Yes I have oil all over everything, and yes I see the drop of coolant. Nothing seems to be coming from there though, despite that rotted clamp. Thanks for any insight.
help!
help!
Last edited by c0rpse; 10-11-21 at 08:07 AM.
#2
Rabbit hole specialist
iTrader: (11)
I can't really tell what's happening in the under pic. However, this hose is definitely known to fail due to age. Oil and grime eventually degrade the hose to the point of failure. It's not a terribly hard hose to replace, but space is tight. There should be a clamp right up against the rear housing.
My only advice is buy a new hose and replace it.
My only advice is buy a new hose and replace it.
#3
Smells like 2 stroke.
That is a very common leakage point, and was my first ever FC coolant leak 15 years ago.
Looks to be the original hose clamp so chances are the hose has probably either never been replaced, or it's very old.
The oil usually comes from the 2 orings in the filter pedestal above it, or from somebody not putting a rag around the filter pedestal when removing the filter during an oil change. Both are easy fixes. In some cases you can remove the hose clamp, cut the bad portion of hose off, and still have enough left to put it back together and limp around till you get a new hose.
Oil kills rubber coolant hoses.
Looks to be the original hose clamp so chances are the hose has probably either never been replaced, or it's very old.
The oil usually comes from the 2 orings in the filter pedestal above it, or from somebody not putting a rag around the filter pedestal when removing the filter during an oil change. Both are easy fixes. In some cases you can remove the hose clamp, cut the bad portion of hose off, and still have enough left to put it back together and limp around till you get a new hose.
Oil kills rubber coolant hoses.
Last edited by DaBrkddy; 10-11-21 at 08:32 AM. Reason: grammar corrections
#4
Information Regurgitator
I think Mazdatrix once said this hose was know to fail due to oil being spilled on it from oil filter changes breaking it down. IIRC it is one hose that runs from under the rear iron to the firewall on the other side of the engine. That oil covered bolt head in your bottom picture is part of the clamp where it connects to the engine. I don't know if any local parts store would have it in stock. As a temporary fix you could get a section of heater hose of the same diameter with a molded 90 degree bend in it and a metal piece( that I can't think of the proper term for atm) that is meant to connect two hoses together with, some hose clamps and cut out that bad oil soaked section and splice the new section in. This should get you through until your new correct hose comes in. The worst part for you is if you can't get a ride to the parts store. You'll really need the old hose in your hand so they can search through their hoses to find a molded one of the correct size for you to use a section out of.
#7
Information Regurgitator
https://mazdatrix.com/product/hose-h...ng-to-htr-n-t/
jim Ellis Mazda = $41.57
https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/p...FB0361211.html
Sometimes Jim Ellis is cheaper than Mazdatrix, Other times they're not.
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#9
Junior Member
Coincidentally that is the exact same location on the hose in my 88 vert that burst 2 weeks ago dumping all my coolant in a parking lot. A new hose was $50 CAN and 1.5 hours of shop time got her running. A cheap fix for what I originally thought was a big deal.
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c0rpse (10-15-21)
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
Do you guys have any tips for the bottom part of the heater hose? The engine side. Its tight in there. It seems doable but damn there is so much **** in way. Being a New England car, of course everything is rusty. I got the firewall clamp off by spinning it off til it broke, then cut the hose off the fitting. That wasn't too bad.
#11
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put your new clamps so that they face the same way as the old ones, they are angled from the factory so you can put a tool on them
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c0rpse (10-17-21)
#12
xXxFC3SxXx
iTrader: (8)
HPS has a silicone kit. While I had my intake manifold removed I replaced both heater hoses. It also comes with the small one that goes to the heater portion of the radiator. Another prone leak to look at while the whole upper intake manifold is off is the hose that goes to the top of the rear iron. Another prone leaking point.
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (23)
HPS has a silicone kit. While I had my intake manifold removed I replaced both heater hoses. It also comes with the small one that goes to the heater portion of the radiator. Another prone leak to look at while the whole upper intake manifold is off is the hose that goes to the top of the rear iron. Another prone leaking point.
#14
xXxFC3SxXx
iTrader: (8)
Passenger Side to Heater. The hose isn't swollen, it's just a bad angle.
Driver side to heater.
Underneath the EWP.
To the block.
To heater section of radiator.
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