i went to the mazda dealer to order some hoses for my 88 TII and the one the dealer could not find was the coolant hose from the rear iron to the throtle body. i was wondering if anyone knew the part number of that hose so that i could order it OR is this something that i could just cap on the iron and the throttle body and not worry about? are there any negative effects to not using the hose?

 

Mazdatrix has it. http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-6810-N318

Some people have used a rubber plug to block off the rear iron port with little success. They tend to rot away very quickly. I recommend using the hose.

 

A rubber cap will leak in a matter of time. I use the jb weld putty (stick kind, not the 2 part mix) and capped it. Never had a problem.

 

Another option (and what's currently on my car) is to get a 90 degree bent hose of the correct size, and run it from the nipple on the rear iron to the port on the back of the water pump. That's a much better option than capping it, if you need to bypass the throttle body. I keep meaning to get the hose and put mine back together properly, but when a line started leaking, I was in Chicago, needed the car running, and just bypassed it.

... my parents think I'm slightly odd for muttering something about a "minor repair" and then taking off most of the intake manifold.

-=Russ=-

 

I used JB weld, and a rubber nipple, also filled with JB weld. Seems to be working fine.

 

Mazda p/n N318-13-681. Or order it from Mazdatrix. Less than $6.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/bhose2.htm (2nd-to-last row, 2nd from left)

The coolant line is for the thermowax that raises idle speed when the engine's cold. If you just cap it you'll have a permanently high idle. If you remove the thermowax you'll have a crap cold idle.

 

ok, i thought that the idle would be dramatically effected by this. i'm going to have to order it from mazdatrix once they open. i placed an order yesterday for shifter bushings and they said that the order wont ship until today so perhaps its not too late to add it. i have a slew of parts coming from the mazda dealer and i'll have to call them with the part number just so that the parts guy there believes that the hose exists. thank you all for the input!!

 

i went ahead and ordered it from the dealer today. it'll be in on monday. i just want this car to be put together correctly. after i install the uim and get an ecu and a driveshaft for the TII i can finally take the car for a drive!!!

 

Anyone have an easy way to remove that stupid hose? its so deep under the UIM it is difficult to get tools under there. plus as soon as it comes off antifreeze pours from it. its even worse putting the UIM back on. ive tried hose clamps and those spring clamps and they all are a pain in the ***... whoever designed this particular element needs an *** whooping

 

You can cap it but it will leak...better off getting the right hose if you can find the right part number...and then hope that the tube on the back iron is not rotted out...

+1 if your going to build the car the right way for personal reason's and don't want to deal with all the little headaches get the correct part...

The idle will not idle crazy or throw things out of wack it will just need to be adjusted...

Good stuff let us know how it goes...

Might have to do a search for this one...but if anyone has some idea's throw them out there...

 

If you don't have the water flowing thru the throttle body, the thermowax, if rigged properly, will keep the thorttle cracked open resulting in a high idle. And it'll remain at a high idle unless the heat transfer off the rest of the engine finally extends the thermowax Long wait for that to happen with no water flowing thru the throttle body.

If you AJUST anything to get a normal 750-800rpm idle, then you lose the function of the water thermowax. Purpose is to keep the rpms up at approx 1500rpm and slowly drop the rpms down to a normal idle speed. Warms the engine up and keeps it from dying on a cool/cold day.

Or to use MAZDA's words: "With a function equivalent to the choke of a carburetor." Talking about the water thermowax, fast idle cam etc.

 

well, i ended up putting the correct hose on that i ordered from the dealer..this was last summer of course. the brilliant black TII runs well with the exception of being in need of a turbocharger(old one gave up the oil seal) and is still in need of a driveshaft. i am all for doing things properly, thus the correct parts were installed to make the engine run properly.

 

Be careful throwing the word "stupid" around...

That's why you lift the UIM up out of the way first. As you can see in this photo, the clamp at the TB is then easily reached with a screwdriver or better, a socket driver.

That's why you drain the cooling system first. Genius...

Or you just need to get more skilled and experienced at working on cars. Quit blaming others for your failings, this is far from the trickiest job you can do on the car.

 

[QUOTE=NZConvertible;7899742]Be careful throwing the word "stupid" around...

That's why you lift the UIM up out of the way first. As you can see in [url=https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138472
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You cheated and removed the alternator for better access and removed the intake elbow so you could rotate the intake more for better access to the hose. Not fair. humor

 

It's possible to get it with the alternator off, but save the big headache you will more than likely have and just remove it.

 

If by cheated you mean I figured out the easy way to do it instead of complaining about how hard it is, then yeah, I'm a cheat...