Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

I am trying weed out a couple of things that are bothering me with a thermo sensor switch probe i am working on.

I want to know what is a safe coolant temperature when the thermo switch activates to turn the fan on?

Also what is a good temp to deactivate the fans?

i got this from a a couple of threads when i was searching for my answer but its for an fd- but due to the the fd cooling system and pressures i dont see if it will work for a fc

all i need to know is the on and off safe fans modes-thanks

65C (150F): too cold. According to service manual, EGR valve is non-operational below 150F, "to improve drivability when cold."
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
100C (212F): boiling point of pure water at atmospheric pressure.
105C (221F): getting hot. Stock ECU will activate fans to cool the car down. Fan speed will be low, or medium (if A/C is already on).
108C (226F): hot. Stock 93-95 coolant thermoswitch activates, changing fan speeds from low>> medium (or med>>high if A/C is already on) (switching to an FC thermoswitch will change this temp to 203F)
115C (240F): getting dangerous. OEM temp gauge begins to rise.
117C (243F): dangerous. boiling point of pure water with 13psi pressure cap.
121C (250F): too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to white line. Boiling point of pure water with 16psi pressure cap.
124C (256F): way too hot. Boiling point of pure water with 19psi pressure cap. Boiling point of 50/50 coolant mix with 13psi pressure cap.
127C (260F): way too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to red line.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I don't know,But my idea is that when the Fans turn on,with the Sensor set at a particular Degree(say 170 Degrees Farenhiet),wouldn't they also Shut Down at that Same set Temperature?.So if the Fan's Sender is Set at a Safe operating temp,it won't shut down until the system cools down to that...am I wrong?..This Is kind of interesting,so Please Input Gents!

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I have my "on" temp as 104C and off as 95C on the Haltech.

WadeMCarter

104C?? I don't feel good so I am not going to feel like an idiot if I misunderstood, but isnt that over 200F? ~219?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I have my turn on time at 92 degrees, and off time 5 degrees below that.

However more and more I am frustrated by the binary operation of the e-fan. It does a horrible job of keeping the temperature constant and cycles far too often. This is why I'm going to upgrade to the FAL PWM controller.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Yeah its warm. Honestly though I run dual fans, one PWM from the haltech with the temps listed, and one that I just run through a switch. I've only ever had the temp controlled one turn on once or twice, its mostly for a back up. But I've taken apart a couple engines with these settings on the ECU and there was never any issues with the coolant seals.

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

92 degrees on and off at 87 degrees Aaron aint it cold where you live at bro-

cool i am looking at some thermosensor switches on summit and i still dont know what to get i am looking at one that turns the fan on at 185f and turns them off at 170f

would i be safe with those numbers

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to keep the engine at as constant a temperature as possible like the stock clutch fan did. Keep in mind that while it may be as cold as -40 in the winter here, it can be hotter then +40 in the summer. The only way to hold the engine at a decently steady temperature is to turn the fan on lower then it needs to be. The clutch fan has the advantage of adjusting it's speed to the temperature of the coolant while the e-fan can only be on or off. This is why I'm going to switch to the PWM controller...

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

thanks aaron

so what do you think about the probe sendor switches from summit

and what is a good relay amp to run on a taurus e- fan 30 amp or 40 amp

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

A quality 30A relay is fine. A quality 40A relay is better.

I don't have any experience with the temp switches. I've only ever used adjustable thermoswitches or standalones.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Mine does exactly that. I bought a Taurus fan and controlled it with a sweeping adjustable relay. I would not recomend using a probe that you shove through the Radiator. They are unrealiable as hell.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

If that is the probe that sticks in into the Radiator finns, dump it. POS.

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

wow..you mean that zip tie like push through the rad fins deal? i've never heard bad things about them.

:AA:

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I imagine if you buy a adjustable kind, you can work with it. I canned it. I prefer having a sensor.