I was looking at these to cool the fuel entering the manifold for a slight power increase. Anyone had experience with these before? I was thinking about buying one and placing it after the fuel filter and before the Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.

Summit P/N MOR-65125


Please post ur ideas on this one.
Thanks
TRU

 

anyone?

 

u think that would be benificial? the fuel is going to be ignited 2000F anyways.. i dont think it would do much good.... unless they have proven otherwise... might be something to get if its beneficial!

 

Here is a question to answer your question. The air that goes into your engine will be ignited to 2000F, how is using cold air beneficial?

 

cold gas or air has more molecules per cubic inch than hot so you get more into the chamber to be ignitedif if it is cold

 

I will install one and try some dry ice on strip days and see what happens, I heard this cool-can thing is one of the oldest tricks in the book, surprised nobody else has opinions on it.

 

I have no opinion per say on this subject yet but am very interested to see what exactly your experience is with it....I can understand the possible slight power increase but is it worth the $$$?

- D

 

well, it's mostly because they were used for carb engines in the past not fuel injection, so most people that run fuel injection prob. haven't even heard of it.

 

Not needed and don't waste your money.

So, what is cooling the can? We already have fuel cooling. Its called your gas tank. Fuel is in a loop.

Please don't do the cold gas to cold air comparison. These are two different topics should not be tossed together. Cold gas may cool the air but you still need to increase the volume of air to see any benefit.

We want fuel to be hot enough to atomize so that all of it burns. Unatomized fuel doesn't burn well and you end up with poor HP/MPG.....

To get more fuel, increase injector size or pulse width.

We are all getting off on cooling the air/fuel and whatever, but noone ever mentions adiabatic efficiency. Too bad that all the patents for adiabatic heat engines are probably owned by oil producing countries. Note that the evanscooling users can probably increase the adiabatic efficiency(more power and economy). But, engines still need to be designed to run at the higher temp. Hotter engines make more power but we need to harness that heat. Turbos help.

For people who live up north, what do you pay to heat your house in a year? Now, compare this to the amount of heat that we WASTE in front of your car everyday(radiator). Tons of power in that radiator/exhaust that noone is using.

You are better off doing the traditional intake/exhaust/fuel/timing/boost..... mods first. This way, you make more power by wasting more fuel.

 

why would you want to do that? Do you want your car to run richer? Our cars have a bad enough problem with that already.

I consider that a waste of money.

 

Modded TIIs don't have a problem running rich...

 

Cooler the better. I've seen fuel in the tank 155/160 degrees. No good. Cool can has got to help, just like a cool air intake...How much??????
I don't think I'd go dry ice (-100 degrees) compared to regular ice. Also, a note of caution dry ice should not be in a closed container a/c CO2 gas that is released.

 

I agree with whoever mentioned its use with carbs. I could see how it may help make a carb a little more consistent since they are effected by outside temps, unlike FI.

 

Gee, makes you wonder what temperature gasoline boils at or how you measured the gas temperature in the tank.

 

Gasoline boils right around 100 degrees C, with differences depending on octane.

 

I can only see a real benefit on real race cars, and on cars trying to break records on salt flats etc. it would help, but its not worth the money, put that $$ somewhere else more beneficial.

 

I think this mod is mainly intended for carb setups. If I do decide to try it out, I will post results (dyno etc). If you consider the $$$ mods cost for our cars its a very cheap mod, under $100. Thats the type of mods I like doing, goes right along with electrical fans and universal type mods. I appreciate your feedback on this. Seems to be controversial. I may give moroso a call and see what they say about FI setups.

Thanks
TRU

 

No, thats water -- 100c. Gasoline boils between 100 and 170 F (40-80 C). It depends on seasonal blend(winter vs summer) and additive packages also(MTBE/Ethanol/Meth....) and octane. Octane also decreases with time. Gasoline flash point is between ~-45 and -20 degrees F. At 212F(100c), gasoline has long evaporated. Feel free to boil some with a temperature gauge. Don't blame me if you blow your kitchen up.
And, remember, liquid gasoline doesn't burn. Only gasoline vapours can burn. That is why fuel atomization/injector spray pattern is so important.

I wasn't trying to be rude but I have never felt a hot gas tank in the RX or any other car. Warm maybe.
Next time I will be forward. 160 degrees in a gas tank is BULL. The gas would be evaporating fast enough that you won't even need FI/carbs.... The vacuum line to the charcoal canister will provide enough fuel to run on
Vapor lock would disable your car because the underhood temperature is higher than the surrounding temp of the gas tank. Your injector would be injecting vapor which is nowhere nearly as dense as fuel and your car would lean out and stall. Most carb's mechanical fuel pump do not have a loop(vapor or fuel return). This would cause high fuel temp at the carb/pump but not in the tank. News cars(returnless FI) haven't experienced excessive issues. Possible due to summer blend fuels and better line insulating/routing. I am still awaiting long term use and results, especially in hot weather states. Some returnless systems use higher pressure fuel pumps/regulators. Like your water/antifreeze cooling system, the higher pressure fuel is less likely to evaporate/boil over.

If your gas tank is hotter than ambient temperature when full, then you better locate that exhaust leak warming up that tank before BOOM happens.

If you are experiencing vapor lock, fix the problem. Either you are getting old winter gas in summer, your regulator is not regulating, your fuel pump is not providing enough pressure/volume, or your fuel line needs rerouting/insulation.

After you install your cool can, make sure that you have your electric supercharger/airpump/... working and that you have topped off your boost fluid. This way, you get your money worth for the dyno pull.

 

I emailed them. Guess they dont recommend it.

----- Original Message -----
From: <reyrey68@hotmail.com>
To: <techhelp@moroso.com>
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 3:18 PM
Subject: Question from Horacio


> I was wondering how (if any) I could benefit by using a cool can on my FI
Mazda RX-7 Turbo.
>
> Thanks
> Horacio
>
>
> Answer: You will not due to the fuel injection