87 se.. Don't care about emissions.. Don't care about much at all.. I have a LOT off the engine now, and now I'm considering the OMP.. I can think up two options:

(a) Rip it out.. Cleans up the engine bay a tad, removes a few points of failure, uses less oil.. Then, could run synthetic safely.. Forces me to use premix. I *ASSUME* I just make a lil blockoff plate (geez..i'm already making SO many of these.), and block it off with gasket or RTV or something.. Plug the injector holes with a screw (10mm in length is what some other post said.)

(b) Leave it in.. Added safety.. But I would use premix anyway..hmm...


Someone convince me one way or the other.

-Tesla

 

ohh sounds so interesting and fun! Umm I dont know what a OMP is could you explain please? Oh and do fill us in on what else you have taken off

-Daryl

 

It's the oil metering pump. It injects oil into the housing to help lubricate your apex seals. If you take it off, you have to run premix (a mixture of oil and gas) to ensure you don't blow yourself to hell and back.

 

yup

 

Gone is:

*Full intake (lower, upper, DC, TB, AFM)
*EGR
*ACV
*BAC
*Primary and 2ndary fuel rails + injectors
*6 ports (all of it.. sleeves, actuators, control rods)
*Off the TB: (dashpot, thermowax, double throttle plates)

Besides the solenoids, which I *REALLY* want to remove, but I dunno which I can, and the associated vacuum hoses, the top of the engine is bare.

Someone, tell me which solenoids I can remove! Or, at least which solenoids do what.

-Tesla

 

Here's some convincing.

Take your OMP off or I'll break your collar bone.

How's that

Seriously, it sounds like you don't care about the annoyance of putting premix in, so why the hell not?! But, its not going to gain you anything... like you said, it just cleans the bay up a bit.

You know what, I say leave it on. But then, if it fails, you're screwed because you weren't running premix... but if you pull it off, its not going to hurt anyting as long as you run premix, and you don't have to worry about the OMP failing.

My final answer, pull it off. You don't need it. It could fail. Running premix is cool. Removing **** from your engine bay is cool.

There.

 

Actualy, you can't just take it off, your ECU will go into limp mode and your car will run horrible, and have no power. There is a website out there where somebody is selling a setup that uses the stock OMP to take premix from another reservoir and inject it instead of oil. That way you can keep your OMP and not have to worry about putting premix in every refill. Of course if your OMP fails, once again you are screwed, but they don't exactly fail to often. Or you could just plug the oil injector lines and use premix. But I'm pretty damn sure you can't remove the OMP. Somebody want to back me up?

 

-------------
*Full intake (lower, upper, DC, TB, AFM)
*EGR
*ACV
*BAC
*Primary and 2ndary fuel rails + injectors
*6 ports (all of it.. sleeves, actuators, control rods)
*Off the TB: (dashpot, thermowax, double throttle plates)
------------


Can you say that again? with out abbreviations...and explain what gains for each?

Sorry im just trying to learn the name and I can understand you.

-Daryl

 

*Full intake (lower, upper, DC, TB, AFM)

Ok the intake system goes like this. It stars with the Air filter, then after the air is filtered it goes to the AFM(Air flow meter, also called MAF, or Mass Airflow Sensor) The AFM lets the ECU know how much air is being ingested so the proper amount of fuel is injected. After the AFM is the intake elbow that leads to the TB(throttle body) from the throttle body, is the expansion/extension chamber, which then connects to the Dynamic chamber, or VDI manifold as its called on 89-91's. Some people call the dynamic chamber or VDI manifold the Upper intake manifold. The upper intake then connects to the lower intake, or simply, the Intake Manifold. The intake manifold connects directly to the engine block.

*EGR
Exhaust Gas Recirculation - used to help with emissions and improved gas mileage I believe. Once emissions stuff such as the airpump, ACV and Cats has been removed, the EGR is not needed.


*ACV
Air Control Valve - Several purposes, all emissions related(and used in conjunction with the opening of 6-ports and VDI on 89-91 models) The ACV directs airflow generated by the airpump. Once the airpump is removed, the ACV is doing nothing but taking up space. Removing it takes a little weight off the car, not much, but mainly gives you more room in your engine compartment, and makes things looks less cluttered.

*BAC
Bypass Air Control Valve - used to keep a steady idle when you turn on your AC, or lights, turn your steering wheel, or anything that puts a load on your engine or electrical system. Not really needed, just gives you a smoother idle, takes up a little space.

*Primary and 2ndary fuel rails + injectors
I'm assuming he's putting these back one before he try's driving this car again.

*6 ports (all of it.. sleeves, actuators, control rods)
6-ports are the Auxillary ports that open up at certain RPMs to allow for more airlfow and fuel to enter the combustion chamber. When removed the ports are always open which hurts low-end power a little, but your top end is a little better. On 89-91 cars if the airpump and ACV have been removed, then the 6-ports will not open, so most of us just remove them or wire them open somehow.

*Off the TB: (dashpot, thermowax, double throttle plates)
When you let off the throttle at high RPM's the dashpot is used to make your throttle plates NOT snap shut, but smoothly shut, so your off throttle transition doesn't make the car jerk forward. The double-throttle plates are uneeded and simply hurt throttle response. They are similar to the dashpot in that they make on/off throttle transitions smoother. the throttle plates are actually in the TB as opposed to the dashpot which is located at the rear of the TB.

Hope this helps you out a bit.

 

I have an 88 turbo II with the series 5 motor without the omp connected.....running synthetic...premix.....and have no problems at all. Also 2 cycle oil burns much cleaner than conventional oil, which in turn keeps your seals lubricated.....and cleaner at the same time.

 

heh..Yeah..

I saw them there, and I figure I'd take the injectors out and let them sit in engine degreaser... I'm too cheap to actually send them off to be professionally cleaned..

-Tesla

 

Ever though about changing the sub-zero start tank to an oil injection system?? HHHHHHMMMMMmmmmmmm........

 

Is that true with both the 86-88 *AND* 89-91? I know the 89+ is electronic, so I'd imagine what you said is true for that.. With the 86 being mechanical, I'm not so sure the ECU would know/care.. Hm...lemme go see if there are any wires/sensors attached to it....

(goes out into freezing cold)

wow....not cold out there at all!

Ok. I see *NO* electrical connections on it at all. So, unless there's something BEHIND (engine side) of it, I can't imagine the ECU would know.

However, where the control rod hooks up to the lil lever on it.. it seems to be covered with oil/grease. Is this a common place for it to leak? Or is it just regular underhood goo that i'm seeing?

-Tesla

 

It passed my mind... then I ripped it out. Shoulda added it to my list above

-Tesla

 

hmmm...your probably right.

 

Lose it. I would if I could, but I had to settle for just gutting it to disable.

Word of warning, if you have an 89-91 with the electric OMP, DO NOT just block off the lines. The OMP will sieze and will need to be replaced. Dont ask me how I know if you want to disable it, pull the gears out of it so it no longer pumps oil and then block off the lines. You MUST leave both the stepping motor and sensor on and plugged in, or you will get codes stored int he ECU constantly.