800 lbs of torque? Good luck pal.

 

Look bitch, if you got a PERSONAL beef with me, send me a PM.
I'd be HAPPY to discuss it with you.

Your reply does not offer anything remotely useful to the thread short of publicly showing your distaste against me.

When someone mentioned wanting to run 800 lb-ft through a stock FC rear end, they are either smoking crack...have no idea what they are getting into...or have some super secret device that no one else has ever thought of.

Find me ONE member on this forum that has put down 800 lb-ft through their RX-7?
I can't think of any off the top of my head right now; LOTS of people claiming they are going to, but I've never seen the proof to back up their boasts.
Now find me ONE member on this forum that has put down 800-lb-ft through their stock rear end?

...yeah, I thought so...


-Ted

 

1. you're a noob so you don't know what ReTed knows and/or does so YOu cannot speak.
2. yes ReTed can be an *** sometimes but retarded posts make ppl want to be asses.
3. this guy is having SOMEONE ELSE build his car and he knows nothing of the process......if he had d one his HW he would have known that the TII drivetrain will not hold up to 800lb/ft of torque.
4. could it be that perhaps *GASP* ReTed KNOWS WHAT HE's TALKING ABOUT???????* dbl GASP*

quit posting retarded **** and ppl will be nice to you....use common sense people.

 

Take a close look at REted's signature.
His "simple answer" would suggest a knowledge based answer

 

I will put $100 on the fact that I will run a 9.4 if I don't get kicked off the track just to prove this isn't a pipe dream. If I need 800 ft-lbs of torque to do it then I will have to find some way to get 800 ft-lbs of torque.

rarson - It won't have most of that for $17K (for now just a cage and scatter shield). The goal is to run low 10s off the bottle and then get one good full blown pass on the bottle before I get kicked off the track.

 

This guy has got to be a 13 year old kid playing around and trying to heat everyones collars up.

800ftlbs?

I would guess that would skatter any FC drivetrain and twist up the chassis so fast it would auger into the ground.

Very few drivers can handle what you are talking about, much less true engineers to do what you are pondering. Done right you are talking a full ground up build up witha .120 wall tube chassis and some serious drivetrain.

The fact that you even posed the inital question makes me scared for your life or just makes me think you are playing around.

This has got to be a joke....

 

^I'm telling you.....he has no idea WTF he is saying........he's paying SOMEONE else to do the job and is trying to lower the cost of the project............it's retarded and not gonna happen with TII ANYTHING!!!!! He should have done his HW or LEFT IT TO THE PEOPLE THAT KNOW WTF THEY ARE DOING (i.e. the mechanics)

 

Any old joe can buy a V8 crate motor and with the right ancillary stuff can get about 5-600 hp and MAYBE 500 ftlbs. From that point you are talking an exponentialy greater ammount of money, time, tuning, chassis, driver, and it will probably still pop the first time down the strip....

Cummins Turbo DIESIL will do it with a chip i think....

 

Got the quote on the rear end. Looks like it is going to cost $2-4K installed. I am going to sell the the stock rear ends I have.

 

wouldn't it have been cheaper to just BUY a stock V8 car and MOD it from there???? 4K for a rear end seems like a waste of resources

 

I beleive Corksport sells upgraded axles for the FC that can support 800hp for $549.

http://corksport.com/tab0.4/store/ca...rivetrain.html

SleeperFC: Whats the fun in overpaying someone to build your car? I rather mod my airbox and show it off, then let someone see something I haven't done myself (which is something I'll never experience, I do it ALL myself). Plus have you driven a 10 second car? Like RETed says, you're going into a wall ;o.

Tournapart: STFU, I check the forum once or twice a day, Ted is just helping people out with realism. He has done more swaps and builds then you'll ever do. We're lucky to have people like Ted who have had their hands dirty with EVERYTHING on these cars. Respect his answers.

 

And oddly enough, at class here we build a Fiero that we're expecting to hit 11's or less. Light body + slightly built LS1. We're going to snap the axles I think . I say it was a fine choice to use as a drag/street car.

 

The FC was cheap (< $750), the weight ratio is good for road racing later on if I change my mind, and it is light. I agree, it is a waste of money, but it's just something that I want to do.

About never driving a 10s car - anyone that has driven a 10s car didn't always drive a 10s car.

 

i mean it is YOUR $$ and youi should spend it how you see fit.........but it seems like it's not as cost effective as the fiero example above.....you know?

 

How much will the total cost of the Fiero project be though?

 

let's see...............*hops on google and autotrader*

 

Fiero = 400 bux

whatever motor you're using for the FC

ask the other guy about the rear end though......

 

That's a big price range. What I would do is measure from the inside of one rear fender to the other so you know the farthest apart the tire sidewalls can be then subtract 2" so you have 1" clearance on each side. You'll need some pretty big tires. You can use smaller tires if you runs slicks, but that's not street legal. Once you know how much tire you want to run or can fit you can then choose some wheels and calculate how far apart the wheel mounting flanges have to be. Once you know that distance you can subtract the thickness of the disc brake hats or rotors and come up with the flange-to-flange width of the axle assembly. With that flange-to-flange measurement a rear end shop can build up a fabricated 9" housing or a Dana 60. This way you are acting as sort of a general contractor and paying only for the expertise you need. Some people can do this, but it takes time and research. Also if you screw it up you have to pay for the rework.

Are you planning on a 4-link, ladder bars or something else? An offset 3-link is much better for handling and will give equal tire loading under acceleration, but needs to be executed correctly.

 

I think "800 foot lbs" is just a red herring.

A guy on torquecentral ran a 9.42 on the T-II rear and humiliated a poopra and cut a 1.3 second 60' time. I SERIOUSLY doubt youd need to change out the T-II for STRENGTH unless you have a manual, slicks, and serious power... or a transbrake P

The option of broached 300M axles and a C4 or Cobra pumpkin is there, along with tons of gear choices from 2.73 to 5.something if you run megatall tires :P

 

you will NEVER be able to 'road race' in a v8 FC with 800ft/lbs torque. EVER. i doubt it would even be able to turn. you're talking pure drag strip only car at that point, which makes it completely stupid to this in an FC.

 

I am going to cancel the idea for now since I couldn't get the money to get everything built before the tracks close. I am going to sell the FC and all the parts and get something better looking. I hope to post about it within two months.

 

Yea, save it for a different forum tho.

 

Right when i was about to reply saying this is a fukin stupid *** thread. I hate when threads like this are created. Its a complete waste of time to everyone that reads and replys to it. Anyways, good luck with your pipe dream.

 

That was uncalled for.

This thread is officially over I guess. Closing.