Convert NA rear to Turbo II Rear?
#3
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Wow. I don't think the TII rear would last very long either. Your probably talking major league custom work and/or converting to a live axle.
Any rotary that makes 800 lb ft of torque would surely be making like 1100 hp or more, so are you talking about a V8 swap, and for drag racing only?
Any rotary that makes 800 lb ft of torque would surely be making like 1100 hp or more, so are you talking about a V8 swap, and for drag racing only?
#4
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Originally Posted by sleeper_fc
Can this be done? Or, can you build a NA rear to handle 800 ft lbs of torque? Who does this? Price?
You can't make 800 lb-ft of torque.
Maybe 80 lb-ft of torque?
In that case your stock NA rear will work.
-Ted
#5
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Yes you can swap a TII rear end into an NA car. It will require that you get TII half-shafts and a custom driveshaft made (If you are using your 6port engine/tranny). If your planning on running under 230hp the NA rear end will work just fine. And I don't think the 8.8" TII rear end (same size as 94-98 mustang gt's) will ever see 800ft.lbs if you have to ask if it can hold the power.
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I know, I was just seeing if there was any slight chance I could. I guess I will try to sell both of my NA rear ends. I was hoping there would be a chance to use the 4.10s with LSD in one of them.
#10
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Originally Posted by sleeper_fc
This is for a V8 conversion
Most V8's have a hard time getting over 500 lb-ft, unless you pour a LOT of money into it.
Putting in an engine that costs more than the car itself is not economical.
-Ted
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Originally Posted by RETed
Okay, so show us your $100,000 receipt for your motor first and then I'll believe you...
Most V8's have a hard time getting over 500 lb-ft, unless you pour a LOT of money into it.
Putting in an engine that costs more than the car itself is not economical.
-Ted
Most V8's have a hard time getting over 500 lb-ft, unless you pour a LOT of money into it.
Putting in an engine that costs more than the car itself is not economical.
-Ted
Economical, no, faster than a rotary in the same car, def. yes.
BTW: There are many companies that sell 600 hp V8s for under $20K.
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Click on this link for an example wise guy
I doubt it will take $86K to make that at 800 ft-lb engine.
I doubt it will take $86K to make that at 800 ft-lb engine.
#14
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I just put a TII diff in my '87 Sport for the same reason as you, but I'm only going to be making about 500ft/lbs on spray, but it's not a big motor either. If the guy with the wide-body LS1 powered FC can do run a TII diff and have it live then so can I.
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Originally Posted by RoadRaceJosh
I just put a TII diff in my '87 Sport for the same reason as you, but I'm only going to be making about 500ft/lbs on spray, but it's not a big motor either. If the guy with the wide-body LS1 powered FC can do run a TII diff and have it live then so can I.
#16
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Originally Posted by sleeper_fc
Do a search for what a built V8 running 15:1 compression (120+ octane) and a 150 - 250 shot of nitrous can put down.
How about the custom forged crankshaft?
And the custom hand-ported heads?
Race gas?
WTF you messing with STOCK MAZDA DRIVETRAIN PARTS???
So you're building a race-only drag car, and you're not planning to get a Ford 9" or a Dana???
You gotta be kidding me right???
Economical, no, faster than a rotary in the same car, def. yes.
Maybe.
Faster in a road race track?
I doubt it.
BTW: There are many companies that sell 600 hp V8s for under $20K.
Setting up a 800 lb-ft drag car is not trivial.
In fact, there are probably only a handful of people on here who know how to do it or competent enough to design something like that.
Do it wrong and you're going to end up in the wall.
You're just asking the wrong questions, which means you have no idea what you're doing or this is all a pipe dream...
-Ted
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Originally Posted by RETed
So how much are 15:1 CUSTOM FORGED pistons?
How about the custom forged crankshaft?
And the custom hand-ported heads?
Race gas?
WTF you messing with STOCK MAZDA DRIVETRAIN PARTS???
So you're building a race-only drag car, and you're not planning to get a Ford 9" or a Dana???
You gotta be kidding me right???
Faster in the 1/4-mile?
Maybe.
Faster in a road race track?
I doubt it.
Sure, but you're telling me everything else is FREE?
Setting up a 800 lb-ft drag car is not trivial.
In fact, there are probably only a handful of people on here who know how to do it or competent enough to design something like that.
Do it wrong and you're going to end up in the wall.
You're just asking the wrong questions, which means you have no idea what you're doing or this is all a pipe dream...
-Ted
How about the custom forged crankshaft?
And the custom hand-ported heads?
Race gas?
WTF you messing with STOCK MAZDA DRIVETRAIN PARTS???
So you're building a race-only drag car, and you're not planning to get a Ford 9" or a Dana???
You gotta be kidding me right???
Faster in the 1/4-mile?
Maybe.
Faster in a road race track?
I doubt it.
Sure, but you're telling me everything else is FREE?
Setting up a 800 lb-ft drag car is not trivial.
In fact, there are probably only a handful of people on here who know how to do it or competent enough to design something like that.
Do it wrong and you're going to end up in the wall.
You're just asking the wrong questions, which means you have no idea what you're doing or this is all a pipe dream...
-Ted
Since you are so cocky about my pipe dream, how about we put some money on it? Furthermore, if you don't have anything pertinent to say regarding my initial questions, how about you post in another thread.
#19
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Bah, I have 800 lbs/ft of torque in several vehicles around my family...
They're called DIESELS!
Seriously though, you're not likely to keep that rear in one piece, and if you do, axles are going to be trouble next, you should really look into a Ford solid axle, and a 4 link, if you're talking all drag.
In regard to making more then 500 lbs/ft cheap in a V8. My LS1 should be 550 or so (on spray), and I've got less then 2000 in the engine/trans total. Just gotta shop smart. When I do the turbo setup, it'll likely be well over 600, and I'll still have less then 4000 in it.
Not saying you can't do that with a rotary (or even do it in that price range if you're so inclined to design parts yourself). Just noting a V8 can do it with relative ease if properly designed. Heck, my Buick V6 can make 800 lbs ft. for WAY under 10K dollars invested, and do it for quite a long time at that-
They're called DIESELS!
Seriously though, you're not likely to keep that rear in one piece, and if you do, axles are going to be trouble next, you should really look into a Ford solid axle, and a 4 link, if you're talking all drag.
In regard to making more then 500 lbs/ft cheap in a V8. My LS1 should be 550 or so (on spray), and I've got less then 2000 in the engine/trans total. Just gotta shop smart. When I do the turbo setup, it'll likely be well over 600, and I'll still have less then 4000 in it.
Not saying you can't do that with a rotary (or even do it in that price range if you're so inclined to design parts yourself). Just noting a V8 can do it with relative ease if properly designed. Heck, my Buick V6 can make 800 lbs ft. for WAY under 10K dollars invested, and do it for quite a long time at that-
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Originally Posted by sleeper_fc
I agree. There seem to be a lot of V8 guys with a 150 shot of nitrous running the TII rear ends (~500 hp). I do read stories of them going out though too, so I think I am just going to stick with my original plan of a Ford 8.8 - 9" rear end. The cost of the custom work/tubbing is going to break me though!
Have you asked your mechanic what it's going to cost to meet you 9.4 second 1/4 mile ET goal? If you think the back-half chassis work is going to be expensive you'll positively **** once you see what the rest of the car costs.
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Originally Posted by RoadRaceJosh
If you plan on making 800 ft/lbs I don't think the 8.8 is going to last long and the 9" will need a good nodular case, a spool or locker and a fabricated housing.
Have you asked your mechanic what it's going to cost to meet you 9.4 second 1/4 mile ET goal? If you think the back-half chassis work is going to be expensive you'll positively **** once you see what the rest of the car costs.
Have you asked your mechanic what it's going to cost to meet you 9.4 second 1/4 mile ET goal? If you think the back-half chassis work is going to be expensive you'll positively **** once you see what the rest of the car costs.
#23
hehehe, you could just weld the gears. that's always fun, plus people know you're putting down power when you make turns. you might want to go with dana 60s for that though... my friends and i have blown stock toyota axles a few times that way with only 104 hp and 135 lb ft of torque... of course the truck had 5.88 gears, dual t-cases (first t-case: standard 2.1:1 second: 4.7:1) and both were in 4wd low. yes, i like spending money on cars, but that was just getting too expensive. if you hold down shift, 4x4 = $X$.
#24
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Originally Posted by sleeper_fc
You are right, I don't know much about it, but my mechanic does he just happens to have a 9s street car and a 7s race car. I was just trying to find out if there was a cheaper way to do it. All I am trying to do is run a 9.4s pass, which means if I don't have to spray to do it that is fine with me. I just want a rear that can handle the power if I spray.
Since you are so cocky about my pipe dream, how about we put some money on it? Furthermore, if you don't have anything pertinent to say regarding my initial questions, how about you post in another thread.
Since you are so cocky about my pipe dream, how about we put some money on it? Furthermore, if you don't have anything pertinent to say regarding my initial questions, how about you post in another thread.
Sure, how about you build it...run a time slip...get it on a dyno when it hits 800 lb-ft, and I'll eat my words.
How about $100?
Is it worth it to you?
-Ted