I'm currently attempting to remove my control arms in the front to replace the bushings with energy suspension ones. I this process though, I've run into some difficulty in removing the ball joint from the hub carrier. It's just very well stuck as far as I can tell. I'm looking at tools for removing said difficulty and wondered if they may be used to remove and replace the bushings as well. The specific ones I'm looking at are a 2 or 3 clamp 6" gear puller - for the ball joint removal and some bushing removal, and possibly a large c-clamp along with a bearing driver set to reinstall the bushings. Is this a possibility or am I insane? Or should I look at some other specific type of tools? This is for removing and replacing the front contol arm's front and rear bushing as well as the rear trailing arm outer bushing. The only things I can see being a problem would be how much pressure is required to press the bushings into place, and whether the three clamp puller would have enough of the control arm to press the bushing on(rear bushing/front control arm). Can anyone tell me for certain whether or not it's possible or whether or not I should attempt it?

 

No-one even wants to take a crack at this one?

 

The trouble you're having is getting the ball joint out of the A-arm, or out of the spindle?

If it's the latter, I just beat the $hit out of it with a large punch & a hammer, after I soaked it down with some penetrant oil...

 

Out of the spindle. Which is why I was looking at the 2-3 jaw puller. The jaws will grab behind the spindle, while a wide bolt pushes down on the top of the balljoint, pushing it out. I figured the same puller might be used to clamp around the back of the flange on the control arm, and with a plate between the bolt and bushing, could push the new bushing into place as well. Think its possible or is there a huge amount of pressure needed to push the bushing into place? Or would the clamps in three places behind the flange not be enough grip and rip up the control arm while trying to push the bushing on?

One more thing I've run into. Why is it that the center bolt on the piston in the rear shocks turns all the center of the mounts and not the plate that surrounds everything. The FSM says to put it all in a vise, but WTF good will that do if the spring is in the way of the back of the plate? Now I have to find someone with an impact wrench to remove the center nut, and replace the new nut on the new shock. Screw torque specs on that part.

 

Boy, you're just having all kinds of problems, aren't you, lol

Did you try the penetrant/ hammer method? Just needs a good whack to break the 17-year old electrolytic corrosion bond, then you're home free. The new one won't be near as hard going back in.....You did get a new one, right?

 

I tried the penetrant hammer method already. One of my first thoughts exactly. The problem is that the part that the piston is directly held by, turns too easily in the rest of the set-up. I don't have the room to only get ahold of that part either, at least not without damaging it. So, as I said, impact wrench. How about the bushing idea though?

 

Burn it off. If you have access to a torch of some sorts, propane or something. I did this about a week ago, it works well, you just have to keep scrapping the burnt stuff off. Mine slide right off after this. It does smell though, so you were warned.

BTW the burning will not harm the control arm in any way.

 

I'm pretty certain I can get them off here, but what about putting them back on with the method I described? I'm kinda bored here, since the parts stores are closed and I can't get the tools now, so I'm planning and plotting my next move. After burning your old bushins out, how did you get new ones in? I'm really just trying to avoid taking them anywhere since I don't trust people with my car or its parts, and I don't currently have access to a press.

 

You can push them in by hand. They are fairly easy. Especially greased!

 

Seriously? That should make things a whole lot easier than I expected. Cool beans.

 

bumping an old thread haha....


so im doing a energy bushing kit install as well, putting the rear bushings on the front control arms, having a hard time getting the stockers off. seems there is a metal sleeve in the way so i cant just burn it off. or is there more rubber underneath this sleeve that also gets burned out? the replacement energy unit is just a giant peice of poly, no metal.

should i get an angle grinder out or keep burning?