Considering a Walbro 255
10-23-12, 07:03 PM
#26
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.
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Ok, got everything installed with no leaks but couldn't get the car to idle properly. Fuel Pressure with car off, ignition on, is at ~39 PSI. Starts easy, but I have to play with the throttle to keep it running. If I hold the accel at 1/4 it runs for about 5 seconds, then slowly dies (even if I slowly add more throttle). Battery is low, charging that now. Might attempt to get it running again tonight. Any advice?
10-23-12, 11:28 PM
#29
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Update...
Update...
Sometime this week, going to start a new thread "How to (not) install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, in the stock location."
Going to take pics of everything I've done including my personal opinions and advice about the who, what, when, where, why, and how of FPR install. I'm 90% done installation, but because it's such an 'easy' bolt on, I'm gonna take it off, take pictures, and make something useful for the community about all my troubles with adapters, including a SARD adapter that did not work for me. Sometime this week i'll post a link to the new thread, which should include a sort of review of the FPR (if it actually makes a noticealbe difference).
Cheers,
Richard
P.S. The reason my car wouldn't idle is because I forgot to re-torque the elbow before the throttle body. Also to Aeromotive: aluminium threads for an adjustment screw that is under pressure is a bad idea.
Sometime this week, going to start a new thread "How to (not) install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, in the stock location."
Going to take pics of everything I've done including my personal opinions and advice about the who, what, when, where, why, and how of FPR install. I'm 90% done installation, but because it's such an 'easy' bolt on, I'm gonna take it off, take pictures, and make something useful for the community about all my troubles with adapters, including a SARD adapter that did not work for me. Sometime this week i'll post a link to the new thread, which should include a sort of review of the FPR (if it actually makes a noticealbe difference).
Cheers,
Richard
P.S. The reason my car wouldn't idle is because I forgot to re-torque the elbow before the throttle body. Also to Aeromotive: aluminium threads for an adjustment screw that is under pressure is a bad idea.
Last edited by veikko; 10-23-12 at 11:32 PM. Reason: Becuase I like embarrasing myself
10-24-12, 11:12 AM
#30
All of the aftermarket FPR's are aluminum - so it is a common issue. It is best to remove the adjuster set screw and apply a couple warps of Teflon tape to the treads. This helps to protect the threads and makes it easier to turn the adjuster screw against the spring tension. It also helps to seal up a very slight vacuum leak as well that exist via the treads. This is due to the vacuum/pressure line that is run from the intake to the FPR (above the diaphragm) to help maintain a constant fuel pressure differential across the injectors no matter what is happening inside the intake manifold, be it vacuum or boost.
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