considering installing a REV TII system on my 87 TII but..
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considering installing a REV TII system on my 87 TII but..
well, i have the option of installing a full RB TII exhaust system on my TII. however, i was told the boost can increase and can take the engine with it. what im saying is it wise to have the car tuned with a standalone before opening up the exhaust? if yes, what components can be mounted that wont affect the boost? any advice is appreciated
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You'll need something to control the fuel cut. (FCD)
Read this: http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...ems/16425.html
Read this: http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...ems/16425.html
#3
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You can use a fuel cut defencer but that seems to be the least desirable way.. All it does is lie to the computer about how high the boost is running so that it doesn't violently shut off fuel to the rear rotor [air pressure continues but fuel stops... Bad stuff]
The second cheapest thing you can do is upgrade your ECU with an Rtek: http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S4T2
As cheap as $120 DIY install or $140 professionally installed with a lot of extra benefits..
Ideally you would get a standalone.. That would let you do pretty much anything you want with the engine [different turbos, precise fuel tuning, timing, etc]
Do a search and see what other people are running with a REVTII exhaust.
The second cheapest thing you can do is upgrade your ECU with an Rtek: http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S4T2
As cheap as $120 DIY install or $140 professionally installed with a lot of extra benefits..
Ideally you would get a standalone.. That would let you do pretty much anything you want with the engine [different turbos, precise fuel tuning, timing, etc]
Do a search and see what other people are running with a REVTII exhaust.
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i do plan on getting a standalone in the future...but its not near-future. the fcd will do nicely for now till i get my hands on one.. preferably haltech...only "ugh" thing about it is the price of the fcd. but id rather pay that and not a couple grand for a new engine
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You could run the exhaust without a FCD or standalone... Just don't boost. (This is NOT at all a recommendation.)
For now, a FCD will work. I wouldn't use it for too long, or do like ten hard pulls a day.
I run an APEX'i Power FC with my Racing Beat REV TII. (Along with other mods.) I absolutely love this exhaust.
For now, a FCD will work. I wouldn't use it for too long, or do like ten hard pulls a day.
I run an APEX'i Power FC with my Racing Beat REV TII. (Along with other mods.) I absolutely love this exhaust.
#7
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want to know how my last motor blew?
RB rev II exhaust + FCD = blown motor
go get yourself an Rtek chip. it's not much more expensive than an FCD, has many other benefits, and you won't blow your motor. Might as well get the one that requires 720cc secondary injectors while you're at it. Just as added insurance against running lean. If you run lean on these cars, you WILL blow your motor. Also, you can sell a chipped ecu easily when you upgrade to a Haltech later on.
RB rev II exhaust + FCD = blown motor
go get yourself an Rtek chip. it's not much more expensive than an FCD, has many other benefits, and you won't blow your motor. Might as well get the one that requires 720cc secondary injectors while you're at it. Just as added insurance against running lean. If you run lean on these cars, you WILL blow your motor. Also, you can sell a chipped ecu easily when you upgrade to a Haltech later on.
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i've run this exhaust with both S4 and S5 and hybrid turbos on the stock ecu and stock injectors with no problems. due to the age of the car you MUST make sure everything is working properly.
it MUST be verified that there are no vacuum leaks, that the fuel pressure regulator is hooked up to the right vacuum/boost source on the intake (some are vacuum only = boom). fuel filterS should be new. charging system MUST be working, on the S4's there is a staple or something in the charging harness, so the alternator can be putting out 14v, but the fuel pump sees under 12v = boom.
i have always changed fuel pumps too, the FD pump works great.
if you just put this exhaust on some car you assume is good, you'll be engine shopping sooner than later
it MUST be verified that there are no vacuum leaks, that the fuel pressure regulator is hooked up to the right vacuum/boost source on the intake (some are vacuum only = boom). fuel filterS should be new. charging system MUST be working, on the S4's there is a staple or something in the charging harness, so the alternator can be putting out 14v, but the fuel pump sees under 12v = boom.
i have always changed fuel pumps too, the FD pump works great.
if you just put this exhaust on some car you assume is good, you'll be engine shopping sooner than later
#10
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No one has mentioned to port the bloody wastegate yet?
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/s4wastegate.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/s4wastegate.htm
#11
IF YOUR NOT PLANNING ON RUNNING HIGHER BOOST THEN STOCK.........
S5 turbo manifold and hotside. Port the wastegate as much as possible!
I have the 2 1/2" Full RB setup with a FCD. On a very cold day I might hit 8lbs of boost otherwise 5.5lbs all day long.
S5 turbo manifold and hotside. Port the wastegate as much as possible!
I have the 2 1/2" Full RB setup with a FCD. On a very cold day I might hit 8lbs of boost otherwise 5.5lbs all day long.
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want to know how my last motor blew?
RB rev II exhaust + FCD = blown motor
go get yourself an Rtek chip. it's not much more expensive than an FCD, has many other benefits, and you won't blow your motor. Might as well get the one that requires 720cc secondary injectors while you're at it. Just as added insurance against running lean. If you run lean on these cars, you WILL blow your motor. Also, you can sell a chipped ecu easily when you upgrade to a Haltech later on.
RB rev II exhaust + FCD = blown motor
go get yourself an Rtek chip. it's not much more expensive than an FCD, has many other benefits, and you won't blow your motor. Might as well get the one that requires 720cc secondary injectors while you're at it. Just as added insurance against running lean. If you run lean on these cars, you WILL blow your motor. Also, you can sell a chipped ecu easily when you upgrade to a Haltech later on.
Thanks to Aaron for mentioning porting of the wastegate.
For now, it seems the safe and cheap way would be:
(Exhaust already purchased...?)
A fuel cut defender or "Fuel cut controller" Whichever you prefer to call it. - Can be purchased used on this forum.
Port the wastegate. - Which can be done with some borrowed tools and "pocket change".
Last edited by dwb87; 10-17-11 at 03:59 PM.
#13
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For now, it seems the safe and cheap way would be:
(Exhaust already purchased...?)
A fuel cut defender or "Fuel cut controller" Whichever you prefer to call it. - Can be purchased used on this forum.
Port the wastegate. - Which can be done with some borrowed tools and "pocket change".
(Exhaust already purchased...?)
A fuel cut defender or "Fuel cut controller" Whichever you prefer to call it. - Can be purchased used on this forum.
Port the wastegate. - Which can be done with some borrowed tools and "pocket change".
Next it needs a boost controller to actually add power. But only a little, because then it needs more injector and an ecu upgrade to control it....yada yada yada. When trying to make power, it's difficult to only upgrade one component when everything is meant to work as a system.
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very useful info...ill just save up for a proper standalone and leave the exhaust system on the side...id rather be safe about this. im in no rush to put this system on since the motor is rebuilt and doesnt even have 20k mileage yet
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For what it's worth, I've run a REVII exhaust with a FCD and boost controller (8.5 lbs max) since 2006 in my S4 TurboVert running a mystery engine I bought off a forum member used and no problems. I did recently replace the engine, but only because a water jacket landing in the front iron failed.
To be honest, I would NOT buy a used FCD as they're beyond difficult to determine if it's working or not unless you're also running a wideband AF gauge. I'd get a new one directly from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix so you have a big local platform to back up it being a good one. That said, if you come across a killer deal on a REVII set up, I'd go for it.
To be honest, I would NOT buy a used FCD as they're beyond difficult to determine if it's working or not unless you're also running a wideband AF gauge. I'd get a new one directly from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix so you have a big local platform to back up it being a good one. That said, if you come across a killer deal on a REVII set up, I'd go for it.
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For what it's worth, I've run a REVII exhaust with a FCD and boost controller (8.5 lbs max) since 2006 in my S4 TurboVert running a mystery engine I bought off a forum member used and no problems. I did recently replace the engine, but only because a water jacket landing in the front iron failed.
To be honest, I would NOT buy a used FCD as they're beyond difficult to determine if it's working or not unless you're also running a wideband AF gauge. I'd get a new one directly from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix so you have a big local platform to back up it's being a good one.
To be honest, I would NOT buy a used FCD as they're beyond difficult to determine if it's working or not unless you're also running a wideband AF gauge. I'd get a new one directly from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix so you have a big local platform to back up it's being a good one.
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For what it's worth, I've run a REVII exhaust with a FCD and boost controller (8.5 lbs max) since 2006 in my S4 TurboVert running a mystery engine I bought off a forum member used and no problems. I did recently replace the engine, but only because a water jacket landing in the front iron failed.
To be honest, I would NOT buy a used FCD as they're beyond difficult to determine if it's working or not unless you're also running a wideband AF gauge. I'd get a new one directly from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix so you have a big local platform to back up it being a good one. That said, if you come across a killer deal on a REVII set up, I'd go for it.
To be honest, I would NOT buy a used FCD as they're beyond difficult to determine if it's working or not unless you're also running a wideband AF gauge. I'd get a new one directly from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix so you have a big local platform to back up it being a good one. That said, if you come across a killer deal on a REVII set up, I'd go for it.
if you hit fuel cut, then it doesn't work.
also good call Aaron, I completely forgot to mention porting the wastegate. This is especially critical on an s4 turbo.
Good to hear that the OP is going to play it safe. my car runs SOOO much better with a standalone, and its just an old e6k I got used with the harness for $400
#18
Porting the wastegate (s4 or s5) should be close to #1 if you want to upgrade anything performance orientated!
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Keep a lookout for a blown s5 turbo. All you need is the hotside and manifold. You can then combine your "good" turbo to the S5 hotside (bigger wastegate) and superior manifold. Very easy to do.
Porting the wastegate (s4 or s5) should be close to #1 if you want to upgrade anything performance orientated!
Porting the wastegate (s4 or s5) should be close to #1 if you want to upgrade anything performance orientated!
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it's easy to tell if an FCD is working...
if you hit fuel cut, then it doesn't work.
also good call Aaron, I completely forgot to mention porting the wastegate. This is especially critical on an s4 turbo.
Good to hear that the OP is going to play it safe. my car runs SOOO much better with a standalone, and its just an old e6k I got used with the harness for $400
if you hit fuel cut, then it doesn't work.
also good call Aaron, I completely forgot to mention porting the wastegate. This is especially critical on an s4 turbo.
Good to hear that the OP is going to play it safe. my car runs SOOO much better with a standalone, and its just an old e6k I got used with the harness for $400
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